Bleeding Coolant System - Can-Am ATV Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-12-2007, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Gidday all,

Any one found/use a fail safe way of bleeding the cooling systems. I've previously had to do it two or three time in the past. I'm flushing & replacing with distilled water & "water wetter". They are pain to bleed! It's always a long process!



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post #2 of 14 Old 12-13-2007, 12:08 PM
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Its extremely easy.

There are two bleeder screws/bolts on the back of each black plastic cap on each head. It is where the coolant line crosses between the heads. All you have to do is fillteh machinefull of coolant leave the radiator cap off let it idle and get hot and then just loosen each bolt alternating sides until you get no air bubbles and all coolant.

Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-13-2007, 12:33 PM
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yup another good one for the DIY thread and the canam how to stickies LOL

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post #4 of 14 Old 05-11-2011, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JDUDDING650 View Post
Its extremely easy.

There are two bleeder screws/bolts on the back of each black plastic cap on each head. It is where the coolant line crosses between the heads. All you have to do is fillteh machinefull of coolant leave the radiator cap off let it idle and get hot and then just loosen each bolt alternating sides until you get no air bubbles and all coolant.

Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.
May b a dumb question, but i have my rad relocated on the rack,with it angled,how can i leave the rad cap off to bleed the system. Can it b left on while i do the rest of the procedure or not ?

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post #5 of 14 Old 05-12-2011, 08:56 AM
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Yes. Do the bleeder on the rear head first as it is lower.

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post #6 of 14 Old 12-03-2013, 01:29 PM
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Sorry to open up this old thread but when you guys are doing the burping technique, do you pull the screw completely out so you can tell its good flow or just to where you see it running out? Seems kinda hard to tell if you have a good flow if the screw is still there.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-03-2013, 01:42 PM
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Radiator relocate

My local repair shop installed a filler neck and cap from a motorcycle it is at the highest poit and level. Filling is easy and can run with it open and no spillage. I have never had to use the bleeders in the back of the engine. I filled it ran it with it open refilled it ran it again for 20 minutes and topped it off.

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-15-2014, 10:34 AM
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Surprised no-one has done a how to slideshow or video on this yet. Sure would be helpful. If I don't come accross one by the time I do mine I guess ill have to make one.
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-15-2014, 10:54 AM
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Surprised no-one has done a how to slideshow or video on this yet. Sure would be helpful. If I don't come accross one by the time I do mine I guess ill have to make one.
****************

Mybe the reason that some are having so much trouble bleeding the air out of the system is the there is no talk of the bleeder screw on top of the Tstat housing.

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post #10 of 14 Old 03-15-2014, 11:53 AM
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Cooling system: Draining Filling and Bleeding the cooling system


Two things that can be easily over looked in the tex

Draining system: Partially unscrew plug below water pump housing.

Filling: Unscrew bleeding screw on top of thermostat.
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Type the year of your birth "xxxx" Then click the QUESTION (?) MARK

Last edited by Mile Hi Outlaw; 03-15-2014 at 12:22 PM.
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