2010 DS250 "Class T" how to make like 2009

[voepel]

I just purchased a 2009 DS 250 and 2010 DS 250 for my kids. I have since found out the 2010 has been designated as a class "T" ATV for ages 14 and up, whereas the 2009 is for 16 and up. The issue I have is I would like to have the 2010 run like the 2009. The throttle will not go to the peg like the 2009. From what I can tell the throttle cable is the same. How do you untune the detune? I have not gotten into the carb yet, but would there be an adjustement there.

Thanks, Steve

[Prograde Oil]

Quote: Originally Posted by voepel

I just purchased a 2009 DS 250 and 2010 DS 250 for my kids. I have since found out the 2010 has been designated as a class "T" ATV for ages 14 and up, whereas the 2009 is for 16 and up. The issue I have is I would like to have the 2010 run like the 2009. The throttle will not go to the peg like the 2009. From what I can tell the throttle cable is the same. How do you untune the detune? I have not gotten into the carb yet, but would there be an adjustement there.

Thanks, Steve

First off, welcome to the site. Dont know about the tuning but there is usually ALWAYS some adjustments in the carb. Correct me if I am wrong somebody please but on my previous bike, (not an ATV a TW200) the carb is what made most of my differences besides the gearing. Hope you get it figured out. You are definitely in the right place!

Take care

[mbarryracing]

Very interesting. The easiest thing to do is remove the airbox boot off the mouth of the carburetor and visually verify that it's NOT opening 100%. If it's not, there is your problem...
Some of the 90cc's came with a spacer on top of the slide that physically prevented it from opening 100% unless you removed it, not sure that is the case on the 2010 DS250 but something also easy to check.
From there it's cable adjustments... We've seen 07's to 09's have different cable slack from the factory and have different WOT positions. I'll have to double check / compare the parts diagrams to the 2010 again but I don't think the components are different that will prevent 100% throttle opening.
Keep us posted!

[voepel]

Ok. I will try this. I did try to adjust the cable,but it did not change anything. Sorry, but what is WOT?

[rkc05]

Wide Open Throttle---WOT

[mbarryracing]

Well just did a little more research and confirmed that the 2010 is the same as the previous years when it comes to the carb (#S16100RCB000), throttle cable (#S17910RCA000) and Thumb Throttle Assembly (#S53190RCA0000).

So it's all in your adjustments now...

[voepel]

Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve

Quote: Originally Posted by mbarryracing

Well just did a little more research and confirmed that the 2010 is the same as the previous years when it comes to the carb (#S16100RCB000), throttle cable (#S17910RCA000) and Thumb Throttle Assembly (#S53190RCA0000).

So it's all in your adjustments now...

[mbarryracing]

Quote: Originally Posted by voepel

Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve

Steve,
Something doesn't make sense from your statement... If you thread the adjuster all the way in (make it shorter), it produces maximum slack and potentially not going to pull the slide all the way open... This is the opposite of what it appears you are trying to accomplish...
When you back it out (make it longer) it takes up the slack and therefore allows the thumb throttle lever to pull the cable farther / open the carb all the way. Can you better describe what is happening that makes you say it "restricted"? Are you saying that the thumb throttle lever doesn't travel as far?

To set the throttle cable slack correctly, you should have about 2mm of slack in the cable at idle when you press the thumb throttle before the cable starts to lift the carb slide. When you let off the throttle, you should be able to hear the slide bottom out in the carb and make a click noise. After that you only need to check if the carb slide is opening all the way to the top so that the carb bore is clear 100%. It is irrelevant how far the throttle lever is at this point.

[voepel]

Quote: Originally Posted by mbarryracing

Quote: Originally Posted by voepel

Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve

Steve,
Something doesn't make sense from your statement... If you thread the adjuster all the way in (make it shorter), it produces maximum slack and potentially not going to pull the slide all the way open... This is the opposite of what it appears you are trying to accomplish...
When you back it out (make it longer) it takes up the slack and therefore allows the thumb throttle lever to pull the cable farther / open the carb all the way. Can you better describe what is happening that makes you say it "restricted"? Are you saying that the thumb throttle lever doesn't travel as far?

To set the throttle cable slack correctly, you should have about 2mm of slack in the cable at idle when you press the thumb throttle before the cable starts to lift the carb slide. When you let off the throttle, you should be able to hear the slide bottom out in the carb and make a click noise. After that you only need to check if the carb slide is opening all the way to the top so that the carb bore is clear 100%. It is irrelevant how far the throttle lever is at this point.

Both the 2009 and 2010 came stock with the throttle cable adjuster on the handlebar screwed all the way in. If you back out the throttle lever will travel less. For the 2009 the thumb throttle will travel all the way till it hits the stop on the handlebar. The 2010 as it came still has a good 3/8" to go before it hits the stop.

I took off the carb and found both 2009 and 2010 look the same. The clip for the needle is in same position and they both have a clip at bottom that the clip/needle rest on. For some reason now, it will not idle and I am not sure if somehow the idle jet is a little plugged up. Also, it seems to have a lot of popping sound out the exhaust so I stopped. Is this caused by bad gas/air mixture.

[mbarryracing]

Quote: Originally Posted by voepel

Both the 2009 and 2010 came stock with the throttle cable adjuster on the handlebar screwed all the way in. If you back out the throttle lever will travel less. For the 2009 the thumb throttle will travel all the way till it hits the stop on the handlebar. The 2010 as it came still has a good 3/8" to go before it hits the stop.

I took off the carb and found both 2009 and 2010 look the same. The clip for the needle is in same position and they both have a clip at bottom that the clip/needle rest on. For some reason now, it will not idle and I am not sure if somehow the idle jet is a little plugged up. Also, it seems to have a lot of popping sound out the exhaust so I stopped. Is this caused by bad gas/air mixture.

There should be no difference between the two years. Is there a threaded adjuster for the cable where it goes into the top of the carb? Did you verify the throttle slide is opening to the top yet? You did something when you had it apart if it won't run right now, did you move the choke at all?
I recall having to clean out the "Air Cut Off Valve" on the side of the carb, it affects the idle mixture and could be causing the backfiring / popping in the exhaust.
Easy enough to remove and clean, blow shop air through. Might have picked up some dirt and plugged a port. See attached picture...