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post #1 of 16 Old 06-29-2010, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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battery removel

How do you remove the battery on a outlander 500 max.


thanks for any help

G
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-29-2010, 06:52 PM
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Unhook the rubber strap, take off the negative lead with a 10mm spanner, lift up battery a bit and pull out towards you enough to undo the positive bolt and remove lead. The battery should now be in your hands. Make sure your connections are tight when you put it back in, as many problems have been known with loose connections.

2010 OUTLANDER 800R MAX LIMITED EDITION
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-29-2010, 07:51 PM
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Since I had the same unwritten question.....
How the heck does one even get a wrench to the negative lead? There just simply isn't enough room. Not to mention the very real possibility of catching your wrench on the positive terminal while trying. Putting a loose negative wire back on would be even worse.
I was able to tighten the positive pole with a small socket wrench (which was loose from the factory), but only after I taped it all up to prevent accidentaly hitting a ground somewhere.

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-29-2010, 08:11 PM
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I pissed around with the battery strap on my 800 today for about a half hour. Had to run a couple zip ties to hold it on at the back.
The designer of the battery compartment should be fired.
Also the f**knuts that designed the windshield, stator, suspension etc. should help that first guy carry out his sh*t along with there own.
All the rest, carry on.
The battery took more time than installing a PR dampner today but was worth it.

-800XT Outlander
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27" XTR's
ITP black 108 SS rims
HM Rad relocate
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- 400XT for the wife and kids
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-2005 DS 50

Last edited by OSOKILL; 06-30-2010 at 11:19 AM. Reason: Language
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8lander View Post
I pissed around with the battery strap on my 800 today for about a half hour. Had to run a couple zip ties to hold it on at the back.
The designer of the battery compartment should be fired.
Also the f**knuts that designed the windshield, stator, suspension etc. should help that first guy carry out his sh*t along with there own.
All the rest, carry on.
The battery took more time than installing a PR dampner today but was worth it.
LMAO. Once you get on the throttle makes it all worth it though, eh?

2014 Can Am Outy Max 1000 XT, 4" CATVOS lift, 29.5 Gen2 Laws, STI-HD 14" Beadlocks, Dalton 1000 Mud Kit, HMF SS XL, BRP skids, H+T warmers, Kimpex Cargo box, BRP Snork Kit, Tiger Tail and a mirror.
Gone to new home---2013 Outy 1000 Max XT, 29.5 Gen2 Laws, STI-HD 14" Beadlocks,1-1/4" pipe lift, Dalton 1000 Mud Kit, HMF SS XL, BRP Chassis skids and a mirror.
Gone to new Home---2012 Outy 1000 XT, 29.5 Laws, ITP SS108s, Dalton 1000 Mud Kit and a mirror.
Gone to new home---09, 800 Outy MAX XT, 29.5 Outlaws s/w, ITP ss108's, snorked, XMR-BRP rad re-locate, ///AIRDAM CV tech primary, Dalton Y/B secondary spring, HMF Swamp Series slip on, Rubberdown Lift, Ricochet Skids, ATR chassis spine, and a mirror just to not get to far ahead.
http://www.youtube.com/user/julieandwally/videos?view=0

Last edited by OSOKILL; 06-30-2010 at 11:19 AM.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 09:12 AM
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really? problems getting the battery out? it takes all of a minute or two to get it out safely. unless the other motor sizes are different, the negative terminal is supposed to be towards the rear of the bike for easy access. dealers have been known to put batteries in backwards, and i've seen a few people put them in backwards to make it easier to hook jumpers to the positive post. but for jump starting, use the starter relay/solenoid in the back and keep the negative terminal to the rear of the bike.

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post #7 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got wake? View Post
really? problems getting the battery out? it takes all of a minute or two to get it out safely. unless the other motor sizes are different, the negative terminal is supposed to be towards the rear of the bike for easy access. dealers have been known to put batteries in backwards, and i've seen a few people put them in backwards to make it easier to hook jumpers to the positive post. but for jump starting, use the starter relay/solenoid in the back and keep the negative terminal to the rear of the bike.
Mine came with the negative terminal toward the front of the bike, positive toward the rear. I worked for half an hour and couldn't get it out. Maybe I'm just inept. So the starter relay would also be ok for jumping and charging?

Tom

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post #8 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 05:47 PM
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yup. just make sure to use the side of the starter relay that does not go to the starter. check the battery cable length and see if the negative will reach to the back. i've got my battery sitting on a rolling stool behind my bike and there is plenty of cable to reach it.

highlifter's most wanted!!!

KMC XD badland chrome rims, 31" outlaws, relocated radiator, snorkels, works shocks, custom bracket lift, comet clutch, Mrrpm 840, Mrrpm cams, Mrrpm port and polish, Mrrpm over sized valves, springs, retainers, etc, 12.7:1 compression w/ CP pistons, 14mm spark plugs, 50mm TB, '09 intake, '09 filter, full muzzy w/ titanium can, rox anti-vibe risers, and flexx bars.

32's on CCATV aluminum locks for deep water pit racing. 29.5x10's on steel crush locks for not as deep water pit racing. 29.5x12's on type 7's for thick mud pit racing. 26x12's on black deltas for drag racing.
31x10.5 Falken's on ITP SS212 platinum 15's for street riding.
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got wake? View Post
yup. just make sure to use the side of the starter relay that does not go to the starter. check the battery cable length and see if the negative will reach to the back. i've got my battery sitting on a rolling stool behind my bike and there is plenty of cable to reach it.
Thanks!

Tom

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post #10 of 16 Old 06-30-2010, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all of the help. I am trying to install jumper for battery tender, jumper cables, what ever it could be handy for.
It is a pain to get out. thanks again

G
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