brake bleeding necessary to change pads??? - Can-Am ATV Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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brake bleeding necessary to change pads???

Hi all. I'm going to change the brake pads on my Outlander 400 for the first time. The manual says to disconnect the brake line from the caliper and bleed the system, then remove the caliper. Is this step really necessary? I don't have the tools to bleed them, so I wonder if the pads can be changed without bleeding the system. Can I still change the pads without disconnecting the brake line from the caliper? It's done on cars so would it be different on atv's??? Thanks.
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 02:23 PM
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i've never bled the brakes on mine when changing the pads.

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 03:03 PM
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 06:08 PM
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Don't disconnect brake line, it's no different than on cars. If it's been a while since last pad change, you may need a C-clamp to push the piston in far enough for new pads to slip back over rotor.
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aintskeered View Post
Don't disconnect brake line, it's no different than on cars. If it's been a while since last pad change, you may need a C-clamp to push the piston in far enough for new pads to slip back over rotor.
agreed leave an old pad on the caliper side and use a C-clamp to push the piston back in .... if you have added fluid to your brakes lately take the cap off while yer doing it and watch for overflow

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post #6 of 14 Old 12-11-2010, 07:55 PM
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Yup that is how I did it too.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-12-2010, 04:33 AM
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If you do end up with spongy brakes and need to bleed the system, Speedbleeders are worth it IMO.

I have had to bleed my brakes a couple times, these little "gems" make it a breeze.

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post #8 of 14 Old 12-12-2010, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Thanks Guys. I was able to change the front pads without removing the brake line after all, and still have the back ones to do but ran out of time. Luckily I got to them when I did, as they were down to the metal plate....literally. Rotors don't appear to be scored, and still feel smooth. The front calipers were a bitch to take off, as they are bolted down with two tapered torx screw. In fact, my torx wrench actually bent its edges a bit trying to get the screws off...that's after having doused them with Move-It even. I put anti-seize on them when I installed them again. The back caliper appears to be bolted down with hex head bolts so it should be easier to remove. Cleaned the pistons with brake fluid first, as indicated in the manual, and pushed them back in with the C clamp no problem. I didn't think of the fluid level in the reservoir, but will keep an eye on it when I do the rear brake. I did top it off a few months back as it was at mid-level, so I may have to suction some of it out first.
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-13-2010, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northern pointer View Post
Hey Thanks Guys.... The front calipers were a bitch to take off, as they are bolted down with two tapered torx screw. In fact, my torx wrench actually bent its edges a bit trying to get the screws off...that's after having doused them with Move-It even.
Impact driver.

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post #10 of 14 Old 12-14-2010, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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I've got 2 impact drivers, but none have torx bits. Only the standard screwdriver bits. I'll have to look for some torx ones.
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