Dead Battery when Winching

**Revicm** · #11 01-21-2012, 07:44 AM

Been running dual PC545's for 3 years…no problems.

MagsH2 · #12 01-21-2012, 08:21 AM

A snatch block reallly reduces stress on the winch motor, thus needing less power to pull. You should also do small pulls at a time, letting the battery recover and the winch motor cool. There is also a discussion on here about using a trickle charger or battery maintaner when your not riding. Just a thougt, its always nice knowing that you left for your ride with a fully charged battery to start with. I just bought a Warn recovery kit like the one inthe BRP catalogue. it has a snatch block, shackles and some traps, nice kit and small enough to have on board.

WiNdGaDe800 · #13 01-21-2012, 08:23 AM

Amazon.com: Equus 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor: Automotive

This is the voltage gauge I use. It works very well in a Renegade due to it swiveling, not sure on the Outlander, their are other style's of them that may work better aswell.

Cruzrtwdgt · #14 01-21-2012, 08:26 AM

most of the specs of the winches I have seen (2500-3000 cap) have a current draw between 100 and 150 amps with a 2/3 load. The battery on your atv is not going to take it for long. Use a pulley, rev the engine up around 3500-4000 rpms, winch in short bursts.

Add an additional battery. Keep it plugged into a battery tender so it is ALWAYS fully charged when you go out on a ride. I plowed for over an hour the other night - 9degrees by following the advice above. No limp home at all. I have only had the limp home 2x in 4 years (OEM original battery) once when I ran the winch for a long time at idle and one time plowing with the headlights on.

Cold is murder on the battery also, but not much you can do about it.

Bogey · #15 01-22-2012, 11:31 AM

Man, I must have been flat lucky because I've been plowing/winching with my headlights on, auxilory lights AND hand warmers... What I'm reading makes sense, I'll kill the cool looking extra lights, maybe the regular lights, but have to keep those hand warmers going!!!

ispt17 · #16 03-03-2012, 12:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by eagle jeeper

Thanks Wow 6000 rpms. That just seems wrong but if it works i ll try anything right now. I think i m going to look into the Odyssey battery. I have been doing some searching and there is the possibility of dual batteries but there seems to be some debate about how to properly set it up.

Hi..in the end what solution u did ? thx (I have a 2009 max out 800r xt with the same problem ) thx

BigOutlaw · #17 03-03-2012, 12:56 PM

^^ Just another reason I'm making a dual battery setup. Drives me nuts I can't start the bike if the battery goes for sh!t!

Odyssey's are good batteries man, buy one and enjoy!

ispt17 · #18 03-03-2012, 01:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by BigOutlaw

^^ Just another reason I'm making a dual battery setup. Drives me nuts I can't start the bike if the battery goes for sh!t!

Odyssey's are good batteries man, buy one and enjoy!

thx

Amazon.com: Deka Big Crank Power Sports ETX16L AGM Battery: Automotive

vs

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC680-P Battery: Automotive

the price is 31$ difference worth Odyssey PC680-P the difference ?

ispt17 · #19 03-03-2012, 05:12 PM

i just test my battery so:

no engine start : 12.50
engine start 13.20 + headlight , warmers ON - 12.50 - 13.20 up and down
3500 - 5000 rpm - 14.52 + headlight , warmers ON 3500 -5000 rpm - 14.20

what do u thing ? is k ?

I have a YTX20L-BS BATTERY ON

I will like to buy the Odyssey PC680-P Battery and use the stock YTX20L-BS like a dual battery and I bought

Amazon.com: Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger: Automotive

it will do the job to keep both battery charged ???
THX

Per44 · #20 03-07-2012, 03:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Cruzrtwdgt

most of the specs of the winches I have seen (2500-3000 cap) have a current draw between 100 and 150 amps with a 2/3 load. The battery on your atv is not going to take it for long. Use a pulley, rev the engine up around 3500-4000 rpms, winch in short bursts.

Add an additional battery. Keep it plugged into a battery tender so it is ALWAYS fully charged when you go out on a ride. I plowed for over an hour the other night - 9degrees by following the advice above. No limp home at all. I have only had the limp home 2x in 4 years (OEM original battery) once when I ran the winch for a long time at idle and one time plowing with the headlights on.

Cold is murder on the battery also, but not much you can do about it.

I had my first experience from ATV with my new Outlander 400 T3 from last summer, and from the very beginning the battery could not cope with even light winching. And the winter made it even worse, I could not plow snow a long while until it stopped due to dead battery. This could not supply power to both plow lift and cooling fan.
We had a couple of days here in this part of Sweden with temperatures from -5 C to -10 C. As soon as it fell below -5 C it was impossible to start the engine, unless you warmed the battery up.
But soon it cooled down and it came to stop by plowing snow.
First thing I thought of was to install dual batteries as some of you guys have done, but then I found a simpler solution:
I exchanged the OE YTX20L-BS for a Shorai LFX27L3-BS12 and got appr. 50% more capacity. If you can afford it, you can even buy the LFX36L3-BS12 and get corresponding the double battery capacity, within the limits set by the dimensions of the OE battery.
So far it is working really GREAT! Engine started by 2nd attempt by -12 C, lowest so far after the exchange.
The motorbikes people are looking for the LiFePO4 batteries for weight reduction and lowering the centre of gravity, not necessary in most of the ATV:s I think. Anyhow you get a weight reduction by 2/3. It is not only a matter of getting more capacity, the Shorai can take higher charging Amps, it is important to take care of the charging systems capacity, and store the energy as much and as fast as possible, I think.
Isn´t it worth a try?