QSC one way bearing - Can-Am ATV Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-07-2017, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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QSC one way bearing

Love my QSC Predator primary clutch. BUT when using the engine brake down steep hills it wants to 'freewheel' when going below 2-3mph.

I read somewhere: "If you're worried about the engine braking at 2-3 mph letting go, the QSC has a one way bearing that will keep it engaged like stock."

If this is true where can I get this one way bearing? And how hard is it to install?

Thank you,

2014 Outlander Max XT 1000 Magnesium with 28 inch Mega Mayhem tires. QSC Predator Primary clutch (stock secondary), 6" rigid LED light on front. Iron Baltic full HDPE skid, Heat Demon heated grips, electric vest plug, tamarack front box, BRP rear box.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-07-2017, 07:08 PM
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You can never get a belt clutch to grab an near idle and have engine braking that low. It would be like driving a clutch car and never pushing in the clutch at a stop light. You would keep going.
I have the QSC Rev-X with the one way bearing and it freewheels at near idle too. It's just the way it has to be with a belt clutch.
Kingquads and Grizzlys have a different type of one way bearing setup and they hold back at lower RPM's. I wouldn't go back to riding a King though!


2011 Outty 800XXC
Dobeck AFR+, Hayden fan controller, QSC Rev-X primary/STM secondary
26x9 Kenda Bearclaw HTR on No Limit Octane custom wheels
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-07-2017, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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What about the stock clutch. It braked right down to a stop didn't it? I don't remember it kicking out at all. But the aftermarket QSC does.

2014 Outlander Max XT 1000 Magnesium with 28 inch Mega Mayhem tires. QSC Predator Primary clutch (stock secondary), 6" rigid LED light on front. Iron Baltic full HDPE skid, Heat Demon heated grips, electric vest plug, tamarack front box, BRP rear box.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-08-2017, 07:25 AM
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the all kick out once rpm is low enough

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post #5 of 11 Old 01-08-2017, 11:04 AM
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All CVT belt drives disengage at low rpm. Only way to have engine braking to stop is tie the primary to a centrifugal force clutch like is found in Japanese ATV's (Yamaha.. etc)

The stock one does go lower than the aftermarket ones but it still kicks out at low rpm. It has to or you would burn the belt right off the machine.

Put it low range and it should be fine. Learn to use the brakes a little you will get used to it in no time.


2010 Outlander XT 800R
HMF Titan QS & Doebeck AFR+
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tage 3 shocks
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Camoplast Tatou 4s tracks
TEAM/STM clutches

Last edited by BrianE; 01-08-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-09-2017, 03:25 PM
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Blip the throttle when going down hill and it will catch. You just have to bring the RPM's up. Let us know how that works for you.

-2016 Outalander XT-P 1000, Can-Am Snorkle, 30 inch Blackwater EVO's, Rev-X Primary Clutch, LINQ Basket and 12 Gal Cargo Box, Tiger Tail, 2 inch lift.
-2013 King Quad 750, Bumpers, Coop Clutch mod 3+, VDI, Injector, 27 inch BearClaw HTR's
-2013 Yamaha Grizzly 550 - Just SOLD to make room for the Can-Am
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-09-2017, 04:46 PM
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I second Backfire1 just blip the throttle. Seems that when you raise the clutch engagement rpm, which nearly all aftermarket clutches do, the freewheel also raises a bit. Your belt has to be pinched to get engine braking IE: as soon as the clutch let's go of the belt... no more brake.

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post #8 of 11 Old 01-09-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Just "blip the throttle" is what I did last year. But on 'pucker hill' we always idled down and rode the brake to control the speed as slow as possible all the while the engine brake working. Guess I will have to practice and get competent with it before I attempt 'pucker hill' again.

shmoky

2014 Outlander Max XT 1000 Magnesium with 28 inch Mega Mayhem tires. QSC Predator Primary clutch (stock secondary), 6" rigid LED light on front. Iron Baltic full HDPE skid, Heat Demon heated grips, electric vest plug, tamarack front box, BRP rear box.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-09-2017, 07:38 PM
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You can be braking either hard or soft and just raise the RPM with your thumb at the same time until the belt engages. You do not have to blip it fast. I find it a little harder to do with split front and rear brakes on my XXC so sometimes I will put it in 4x4 on a super steep hill.

(The one thing you don't want to do in 4x4 is ride on a steep hill with your wife on the back stepping on the rear foot brake. I did a front wheelie off a one foot rock drop off on a steep hill up in Canada last fall. Lucky gravity was on our side that day! I thought we were going over and the quad was going to crush us on top of the rocks. The quad would not move until we both got off.
I never found out what caused the front wheelie until the next day. We were going down a moderately steep hill and it kept feeling like the quad wanted to brake. I looked down and saw where she was planting her right foot.)


2011 Outty 800XXC
Dobeck AFR+, Hayden fan controller, QSC Rev-X primary/STM secondary
26x9 Kenda Bearclaw HTR on No Limit Octane custom wheels
Symtec heated grips, Homemade UHMW skids
Tatou 4S tracks with SpeedoHealer and Klim winter gear

My YouTube page
(mostly unedited track rides)

Last edited by Dr_Z; 01-10-2017 at 10:06 AM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-10-2017, 09:49 AM
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Hey Doc Z... I never have that problem on the Max ... LOL

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