PC5, Autotune (my help sheet)

[Ohiorider]

I recently tuned with my PC5 and Autotune for the first time... Here is a sheet I put together and thought id share it. Again this is what i did and what helped me so please be gentle if there is something i missed

POWER COMMANDER (PC5)

Software 1.0.6.1, Firmware V0.1.8.5

General
Some things may be different depending on what software and firmware you are running. Dynojet Research was VERY helpful in updating my software and firmware (you should have firmware above 145 for the autotune to work correct). Don’t be afraid to call 1(800)992-4993. I updated my software and firmware before I started.
If connecting a switch (open / close) - Use the first two little ports closest to the center (main wiring harness). This will allow for the option to switch back and forth between two maps (ex: winter / summer) or between the main map and an Autotune. Switch open PC5 map and when switch closed Autotune or another map.
Install the PC5 in a pelican case for weather proofing. I ground clearance for the main wire harness, the adapter plug wire for the Autotune and the wire to plug into the computer. With all three of these wires hanging out I silicone the wires and shut the case. When Autotune is not on the bike or when the computer isn’t attached I wrapped the wire plug ends real good and tucked them away. This way I don’t have to open the case every time to add Autotune or add the computer.
Power commander program connected to PC5
Bottom left corner (boxes)
Open Map - This will open where maps are stored. You can open any map that you created or have installed.
Save Map - This allows you to save changes to a map. It is good to use a system that works for you when naming a map. Ex: 3-7-12,60deg,trims within 3
Get Map - This will get whatever map is on the PC5 and display it on the computer screen
Send Map - This will send a map that you (made changes to) to your PC5
Get/Send Table - I do not use
At top of screen
Options/Environment Options -
(Check mark) Retrieve device map upon connection
(Check mark) Create backup map file upon sending map to device
(Check mark) Enabled (under Table Cell Tracers). One sec for the duration. This will allow you to see what cell you are in when idling through the RPM range (when in neutral).
In the Bottom of the map under “Notes” section - If you do not see a “Notes” section then click (at top of screen) View/Show notes
You are able to add whatever notes you would like to this area. I kept the “2009 CanAm Renegade 800, LeoVince slip-on exhaust, Stock air filter” which was the tune I started with. And then I added all my mods that I had on the bike. The date. The Temperature. And anything else that may be helpful when looking at the map months from now.
Autotune added to PC5
When wiring in you Autotune to the PC5 - make sure you add the termination plug to the other port on the Autotune. It is the hard plastic one… Not the soft cover . for power I used my cigarette lighter.
Not sure but I used this method from using a O2 sensor on my race car - turn the power to the Autotune on first before starting the bike. When power is added it will blink a few times and then the light will go solid red. Once this happens I start my bike. The light will go back out since I have a 60 delay but it will come back on solid red.
When everything is wired and you think it’s ready for a trial fire up the bike with the computer connected and make sure you are reading real time Air/Fuel ratio’s at the right hand side. Numbers should be moving around the 12-13 range. If not look at the trouble shooting section in your Autotune instructions.
Without a wired switch
In the PC5 program on your computer - Power commander tools/configure/features enables and input selections. (Check box) for Autotune. This will always have autotune making corrections and building trims. You can go into the autotune “configure” box (to the right of the check mark) and change some settings such as startup time (I have 60 sec) and also make sure # of sensors is correct (weather you have one or two oxygen sensors) and use 20% for calibration (this will allow up to 20% of changes to be made while tuning).
In the above “features selections” dialog box there should be no check marks when running on the PC5 (without the Autotune) unless you wired in a switch (described at the top under General).
With bike running and the program running on your computer
Click on the Trim (for cylinder one or two) in the drop down menu on the left-hand side of the screen. You should be able to rev the bike a little bit and see live Air/fuel, Rpms, Etc. Also in the map you should see your tracer box that you set up (described above under Power commander program connected to PC5). It will highlight where you are from the “% of throttle” and “RPM” (as a cell). In order to look at your trims while connected in neutral you must click “Get Maps”.
After a tuning ride and you come back and plug your computer in
Autotune will automatically “Get Maps” so you can view your trims that it made without clicking the button on the screen. You will have to click on the Trim for cylinder one or two in the drop down menu. Then as long as the trims look acceptable (at first the numbers will be higher such as 15,16,17,etc but it depends on your base map starting point and mods added) you can go to Map Tools/Autotune Tables/Accept All Trims. A box will pop up asking if you want to accept them and click OK. You have now just adjusted your map and made a change. Click the “send map” box and it will send your change to your PC5. Now unplug your computer and go back out for a ride for more tuning. I used slowing “rolling on the throttle” on a slight incline for my tuning spot. I would make roughly four passes and come back and look at and accept the trims and send the map and repeat the process. Each time the trim numbers should continue to get smaller as its dialing in your tune. I kept doing this process until I had trims that were no more than 3. At this point I stopped and saved the map (as listed above) and sent it to my PC5 with all my mods listed in the “notes section” as listed above.
If using a wired switch (as stated above) to your PC5
This part is a general statement since I did not use a switch at this point…
Power commander Tools/configure/feature enables and input selection
Check mark the box for Autotune switch and Map switch. The Map switch is telling the PC5 that you are using a switch (whether it be Autotune or dual maps) and the Autotune switch is sinking the two. I’m assuming that you may have to configure under some of the different area’s Checked. Again I did not use a switch.


Once I had a map that I was happy with I took off my autotune since I can’t see wearing out my O2 sensors or the fact that they block 1/3 of you pipe flow. Once it’s uninstalled you should go into you PC5 and uncheck the Autotune box so that the PC5 isnt looking for the device. I plan on putting the Autotune back on when the weather gets hot or when the weather gets extremely cold to make sure the tune stays where it should. I will probably add a wired switch so that I can toggle between a cold weather tune and a hot weather tune. Another time to add the Autotune would be an elevation change. If you do not want to add a switch you can very easily plug your computer in and pull up a map for anything listed above and send it to the PC5. It will produce the same result but with having to attach your computer to the PC5.

[outty1000]

Good tips, I was also thinking about the obstruction of the pipe with the sensor still in. Not sure it's 1/3, depends on how deep the bungs were welded but there is some for sure.

[rkc05]

Good post. Thanks.

[RZRSharp]

Good write up. I just added the Autotune to my renegade. This will help me out some. Thanks


Sharpie's bringing sexy back!

[VFORCEJOHN]

Quote: Originally Posted by outty1000

Good tips, I was also thinking about the obstruction of the pipe with the sensor still in. Not sure it's 1/3, depends on how deep the bungs were welded but there is some for sure.

That's not an issue unless you have a very short bung hole

on the Muzzys, the 02 hangs in the pipe about 1/8th of an inch and the pipe is 1 5/8 at that section. no power loss with 02 bungs installed vs removed.


I tried the Autotune mapping Outty1000 posted. It was WAY too rich midrange and actually made 66 rwhp vs the 70.66 I get from tuning it on the dyno and NOT autotuning. My dyno has the Tuning link (dyno autotune) I don't even use it.

John

[outty1000]

John do you think leaning up auto tune helps. That map was a straight 12.8 I believe. My current map is 13.5 0-60% throttle and 12.6 at 100% tp.

[Ohiorider]

what is the best A/F for the renegades? I tuned mine to 13.2 but cant remember where i got that number from... again everything i added was from last year and finally put the car away and got around to installing everything on the fourwheeler and tuning. and i pull the sensors more for the sake of saving them. i always hear of guys buying new sensors and i still have the original O2 sensor with my LM1 from my race car days. use them if needed and if not take them out. and the thought of anything (no matter how big) hanging in the flow path of my exhaust has to come out... just my demons in my head that i fight lmao


and thnks for the reply's

[outty1000]

I've been trying different things the best I found so far where I gained another 2 mph in my 330' test area by going from 13.5 to 13.8 2-60 tp, 13.1 80% tp, 12.6 100% tp.
I'm leaving the 0-tp empty except @1500 rpms I put 13.5 a/f.

[atvmodster]

im gunna try going leaner in mid range as well.

[atvmodster]

12.6 wont be to rich at top end?