Help! front oil seal on engine drive shaft. - Can-Am ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-11-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Question Help! front oil seal on engine drive shaft.

Hi folks, trying to change front oil seal on engine drive shaft. I have a manual and its not clear on how to remove the adapter sleeve on my 2015 outlander 800r max. I unbolted front diff and got the shaft off but not sure how to get the adapter sleeve off. I removed the bolt but it doesnt want to slide off. Whats best way to pop it off? Was thinking about trying a big crescent wrench and try to pop it off with that. Should it just slide off or does it need popped off. I don't understand why the manual doesn't say how to remove the adapter. Any help is greatly appreciated. I gave up for the night. Gonna mess with it in the morning.

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-12-2019, 12:17 PM
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Not sure what you are referring to as "Adapter Sleeve". After removing the different clamps and pulling the boots back, they are all splined and pull straight out (they me be rusted in a little and you may have to tap a little to loosen them up. Could you be referring to #100 in the drawing? The Propeller Shaft Adapter. Once you remove the bolt from inside of it, it is splined and it also could be a little rusted on, put a vise grip on it and tap the vise grip to pull it off.
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2015 Outlander 1000 6x6 XT
2012 Outlander 1000XT (Sold)
2004 Honda Rincon (Sold)

Last edited by Chief...; 04-12-2019 at 12:27 PM.
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Not sure what you are referring to as "Adapter Sleeve". After removing the different clamps and pulling the boots back, they are all splined and pull straight out (they me be rusted in a little and you may have to tap a little to loosen them up. Could you be referring to #100 in the drawing? The Propeller Shaft Adapter. Once you remove the bolt from inside of it, it is splined and it also could be a little rusted on, put a vise grip on it and tap the vise grip to pull it off.
Yes #100, my manual calls it an adapter sleeve. I removed bolt in it. but it won't slide off. I sprayed it with penetrating oil. Whats best way to pop it loose?

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post #4 of 9 Old 04-12-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what you are referring to as "Adapter Sleeve". After removing the different clamps and pulling the boots back, they are all splined and pull straight out (they me be rusted in a little and you may have to tap a little to loosen them up. Could you be referring to #100 in the drawing? The Propeller Shaft Adapter. Once you remove the bolt from inside of it, it is splined and it also could be a little rusted on, put a vise grip on it and tap the vise grip to pull it off.
Yes #100, my manual calls it an adapter sleeve. I removed bolt in it. but it won't slide off. I sprayed it with penetrating oil. Whats best way to pop it loose?
FRONT OIL SEAL (ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT) Front Oil Seal Replacement (Engine Drive Shaft) NOTE: The front oil seal can be replaced with the engine installed. 1. Remove front propeller shaft. 2. Remove adapter sleeve between propeller shaft and front engine drive shaft. 3. Remove the front bearing cover, refer to ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION in this subsection. 4. Remove drive shaft seal from bearing cover

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-12-2019, 08:52 PM
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Not sure what you are referring to as "Adapter Sleeve". After removing the different clamps and pulling the boots back, they are all splined and pull straight out (they me be rusted in a little and you may have to tap a little to loosen them up. Could you be referring to #100 in the drawing? The Propeller Shaft Adapter. Once you remove the bolt from inside of it, it is splined and it also could be a little rusted on, put a vise grip on it and tap the vise grip to pull it off.
Yes #100, my manual calls it an adapter sleeve. I removed bolt in it. but it won't slide off. I sprayed it with penetrating oil. Whats best way to pop it loose?
After removing the bolt (nothing else is holding it on except if there is a little rust) it should pull off fairly easily, it is splined, so it pulls straight out. If it is stuck (probably a little rust), put some vise grips on it and lightly on the back of the vise grips to move the sleeve out, once it starts to move, move it back and forth to loosen it further, then pull it off.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what you are referring to as "Adapter Sleeve". After removing the different clamps and pulling the boots back, they are all splined and pull straight out (they me be rusted in a little and you may have to tap a little to loosen them up. Could you be referring to #100 in the drawing? The Propeller Shaft Adapter. Once you remove the bolt from inside of it, it is splined and it also could be a little rusted on, put a vise grip on it and tap the vise grip to pull it off.
Yes #100, my manual calls it an adapter sleeve. I removed bolt in it. but it won't slide off. I sprayed it with penetrating oil. Whats best way to pop it loose?
After removing the bolt (nothing else is holding it on except if there is a little rust) it should pull off fairly easily, it is splined, so it pulls straight out. If it is stuck (probably a little rust), put some vise grips on it and lightly on the back of the vise grips to move the sleeve out, once it starts to move, move it back and forth to loosen it further, then pull it off.
There is a circlip on the front of the drive shaft that I guess helps lock the #100(adapter sleeve, front bushing shaft kit) on. I had to hold a long pry bar on #100 and hit it with a hammer to get it to pop loose. I wasn't rusty just had some crud built up in it and guess that helped lock clip hold #100 good. Now I'm worried that I scratched the bearing cover trying to pry it off.Would hate to put it back together and it leak. will the flange sealant seal it good enough or should i order new bearing cover?
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-14-2019, 01:37 AM
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I think that there is enough surface area that the sealant will seal it. But before you put it back in, dress the area that was scratched real good with a fine file or emery cloth (just the area that was scratched) so it wont damage the block when you put it in.
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I think that there is enough surface area that the sealant will seal it. But before you put it back in, dress the area that was scratched real good with a fine file or emery cloth (just the area that was scratched) so it wont damage the block when you put it in.
For the sealant. My manual says to use "Loctite 5910" Is there another sealant that compares to that? I don't think i'm gonna need an entire $50 tube. I tried cross referencing with a comparable permatex product but I can find anything.

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I think that there is enough surface area that the sealant will seal it. But before you put it back in, dress the area that was scratched real good with a fine file or emery cloth (just the area that was scratched) so it wont damage the block when you put it in.
For the sealant. My manual says to use "Loctite 5910" Is there another sealant that compares to that? I don't think i'm gonna need an entire $50 tube. I tried cross referencing with a comparable permatex product but I can find anything.

Yeah it is kind of expensive. When I worked on my gearbox it called for the same sealant, so I bit the bullet and got it. The only information on the tube that may be helpful is it says "Flange Sealant" and it has a part # 21746. There has to be other products that will work.
Here one on Amazon for $25 + 10 shipping (if your a prime member it may be free, don't know)

2015 Outlander 1000 6x6 XT
2012 Outlander 1000XT (Sold)
2004 Honda Rincon (Sold)

Last edited by Chief...; 04-14-2019 at 06:45 PM.
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