800R fuel pump replacement - Can-Am ATV Forum
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post #1 of 83 Old 12-30-2009, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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800R fuel pump replacement

a big thank you to burner who posted the autozone part numbers a while back. it turned a $250 OEM replacement job into a $135 job. the part number for the fuel pump is E8213. i did the work on my buddy's bike that when i got it was running at 12 psi. once it was cleaned out and a new pump installed, its running right at 50 psi. if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, i highly suggest investing in one. mine has given me the peace of mind when i thought something was wrong and helped me diagnose a few bikes now. well worth it and they are pretty cheap.

first off, if you need help getting the pump out of the tank, i highly advise that you let someone else fix your bike from now on. if getting the pump out is an easy task, this shouldn't take long at all. i'm not going into the steps to get the pump out as that is very straightforward. the whole process is, but pictures do help some people.

here's what you've got when you remove the pump assembly:



make sure to clean it off real well. i got lucky in that someone else had already flushed the tank and cleaned everything off.

here's the pump from autozone:



all you need from the box is the pump itself and the metal retainer for the filter:



start by carefully removing the bottom cap. there are three points where it is held on. just use a flat blade screwdriver to get it off:



note the junk just in the bottom cap. once i saw that, i knew there had to be more in the pump. thankfully i was warned that there was junk in the tank and when i talked to the guy who cleaned it out, he said the filter was darn near solid with crud when he pulled it out and the tank was filthy.

snip this zip tie to give more slack in the wires going to the pump:



remove the gray plug from the top of the assembly by prying the metal locking tab out of the way:



remove the plastic body that is around the fuel pump from the black piece. like the bottom cap, there are three retaining points:



push down and slide the metal piece towards the top of the assembly to remove:



here's the stock pump vs. the aftermarket pump:



pop the connector off the stock pump:



slide the plastic plug and hard washer off the stock pump:



pry the filter off the bottom of the stock pump. use a flat blade screwdriver and work your way around it so you don't damage the plastic. i pried from between the pump and the plastic, not the plastic and the retainer:



pry the filter off around the inlet hole:



the pumps are a little different, but not enough to make a difference:



slide the filter on the new pump and use the retainer that came with the new pump. the stock one might work, but its on a plastic post vs. the metal post of the aftermarket one, so i decided to use the one that came with the new pump:



the plastic plug and washer won't stay on the new pump since it doesn't have barbs on it, but it has to be installed for it to work:



plug in the new pump and slide it into the plastic housing:



make sure that the outlet of the new pump lines up with the regulator:



slide it all together and make sure the black wire goes through the tab on the white housing and make sure the parts lock together:



pull the metal piece back into place:



pop the endcap on and the replacement is finished:




now here is why you should check the regulator on a regular basis:



that came out when i removed the fuel pump. the darker particles are probably from this area of the country.

then i blew back through the regulator and this came out:



the lighter particles are probably from the last time my buddy was in texas.

i soaked it in parts cleaner for a while and blew some compressed air through the regulator and kept doing it until what came out wasn't looking like mud:



when i used compressed air to go in the normal direction, no particles came out. but in the reversed direction was when i got all the junk out of it. that leads me to believe that it has some sort of built in filter on it, so inline filters aren't as necessary as i first thought.

to get the regulator out, just pop off the metal band that connects the two black pieces:




all this mess was caused by the gasket in the gas cap not being seated or something like that. so make sure your gas caps are in good working order. but in the event you're not getting enough fuel pressure, i would suggest first cleaning the regulator. if that doesn't work, replace the pump.

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post #2 of 83 Old 12-30-2009, 02:45 PM
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Excellent write up!

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post #3 of 83 Old 12-30-2009, 03:00 PM
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post #4 of 83 Old 12-30-2009, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys. its an easy process, but some might be scared to try it themselves without seeing it done. it didn't take long to change out or do the write up. hopefully it helps save some guys some time and money.

highlifter's most wanted!!!

KMC XD badland chrome rims, 31" outlaws, relocated radiator, snorkels, works shocks, custom bracket lift, comet clutch, Mrrpm 840, Mrrpm cams, Mrrpm port and polish, Mrrpm over sized valves, springs, retainers, etc, 12.7:1 compression w/ CP pistons, 14mm spark plugs, 50mm TB, '09 intake, '09 filter, full muzzy w/ titanium can, rox anti-vibe risers, and flexx bars.

32's on CCATV aluminum locks for deep water pit racing. 29.5x10's on steel crush locks for not as deep water pit racing. 29.5x12's on type 7's for thick mud pit racing. 26x12's on black deltas for drag racing.
31x10.5 Falken's on ITP SS212 platinum 15's for street riding.
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post #5 of 83 Old 12-30-2009, 08:14 PM
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may be a stupid question, but will this fix the fuel guage problem? (sending unit)

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Good to hear you nailed it on the first time Wake!!!
and big for that excellent review..
however...
my theory about the pump..see if someone with more knowledge can lighten this up..

As we all know the fuel inyection sistem runs at 50psi, right. but the pressure regulator takes care of that...the pump can put out 60, 70, 80 or 90 psi (since mots car pumps run at that pressure) and the regulator reduces the pressure to the normal specs (50)..
I dont know if the OEM Bosh pump that comes in our ATV is 60, 70 or 90...for that matter...mabe it could be that the pump is running 75 and not pumping too much to make the regulator work overtime...

so if you replace it with a aftermarket pump that runs up to 90psi and the regulator is forced to reduce it to a manageable 50psi... wont we run the risk of damaging the regulator by putting in excess pressure and having another pump issue all by itself.


Vooodo... please include this post in the HOW-TO section....

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Last edited by Burner; 12-30-2009 at 11:32 PM.
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post #7 of 83 Old 12-31-2009, 05:18 AM
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Excellent job got wake?

This is one of those "how-to's", that I print out and stick in the back of my manual. (it's getting a bit bulky)



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post #8 of 83 Old 12-31-2009, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burner View Post
Good to hear you nailed it on the first time Wake!!!
and big for that excellent review..
however...
my theory about the pump..see if someone with more knowledge can lighten this up..

As we all know the fuel inyection sistem runs at 50psi, right. but the pressure regulator takes care of that...the pump can put out 60, 70, 80 or 90 psi (since mots car pumps run at that pressure) and the regulator reduces the pressure to the normal specs (50)..
I dont know if the OEM Bosh pump that comes in our ATV is 60, 70 or 90...for that matter...mabe it could be that the pump is running 75 and not pumping too much to make the regulator work overtime...

so if you replace it with a aftermarket pump that runs up to 90psi and the regulator is forced to reduce it to a manageable 50psi... wont we run the risk of damaging the regulator by putting in excess pressure and having another pump issue all by itself.


Vooodo... please include this post in the HOW-TO section....

my take on it is that there is no way BRP would spend the money to have a special fuel pump made for these bikes. a lot of other parts are from the automotive industry, so the pump would be no different. i'm sure airtex just copied the bosch pump to make a cheaper version available at auto parts stores. i do find it odd that i can't cross reference the bosch part number either, though. they probably have one little change to a standard bosch pump to give it a distinct part number for BRP's use. but the internals of the pump are surely the same. also, the previous years allowed for the pressure to be jacked up pretty high by putting a pressure regulators on the return line. the 800R's don't use the same system and have their regulator right after the pump. but there wouldn't be any reason for them to go to a lower pressure pump. the regulator is a mechanical device that shouldn't be affected by increased pressure before it, either. i dunno for sure, but there are quite a few people out there who have used that same pump now with great success

highlifter's most wanted!!!

KMC XD badland chrome rims, 31" outlaws, relocated radiator, snorkels, works shocks, custom bracket lift, comet clutch, Mrrpm 840, Mrrpm cams, Mrrpm port and polish, Mrrpm over sized valves, springs, retainers, etc, 12.7:1 compression w/ CP pistons, 14mm spark plugs, 50mm TB, '09 intake, '09 filter, full muzzy w/ titanium can, rox anti-vibe risers, and flexx bars.

32's on CCATV aluminum locks for deep water pit racing. 29.5x10's on steel crush locks for not as deep water pit racing. 29.5x12's on type 7's for thick mud pit racing. 26x12's on black deltas for drag racing.
31x10.5 Falken's on ITP SS212 platinum 15's for street riding.
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post #9 of 83 Old 12-31-2009, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Down2Ride View Post
may be a stupid question, but will this fix the fuel guage problem? (sending unit)

no, it will not. look at the blue piece in the pictures, that is the plastic part that the arm for the float connects to and goes up and down across the metal strip to give a signal of the fuel level.

highlifter's most wanted!!!

KMC XD badland chrome rims, 31" outlaws, relocated radiator, snorkels, works shocks, custom bracket lift, comet clutch, Mrrpm 840, Mrrpm cams, Mrrpm port and polish, Mrrpm over sized valves, springs, retainers, etc, 12.7:1 compression w/ CP pistons, 14mm spark plugs, 50mm TB, '09 intake, '09 filter, full muzzy w/ titanium can, rox anti-vibe risers, and flexx bars.

32's on CCATV aluminum locks for deep water pit racing. 29.5x10's on steel crush locks for not as deep water pit racing. 29.5x12's on type 7's for thick mud pit racing. 26x12's on black deltas for drag racing.
31x10.5 Falken's on ITP SS212 platinum 15's for street riding.
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post #10 of 83 Old 12-31-2009, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burner View Post
Vooodo... please include this post in the HOW-TO section....
It is.



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07-650-MAX XT
Ricochete ~ Crutchfield 2+1 ~ PRP Stabilizer ~ 25" Bighorn's ~ Kewltek brakes ~ Alumatech Guards
Dalton ~ Fasst bars ~ Cannon/mrrpm oil cooler ~ 10" Rigid LED light-bar + many little "custom" things
Gave to stepson, without a ride for awhile.
ALEX JONES
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