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06 outlander 800 over heating

1974 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  g1outlndr800
hey guys, new member to the forum but I've been stealing info off your forum for a while now :thumbsmilie: about a month ago I bought a 06 outlander that needed work as it had been ride hard and not taken care of. to make it worse the guy before the guy I bought it (I'm the third owner) used the dealer to service the atv. now that's normally a good thing this dealer left the wear ring off the rear fixed joint witch let water in the rear diff and he left the washer off the pinion nut when he put it back together witch made the u joint break and smash the fuel pump.

SO back on topic I'm having trouble with the bike over heating. the light only came on once but every time I ride it feels really hot and when you shut it off you can here the antifreeze boiling and making a humming noise.i know the the fins being clogged on the radiator usually cause this but there is no mud in there and I can see threw the fins. I've riden mostly air cooled carburated honda my whole life so working on this is a little different to me and any help would be great!

forgot to add when I bought it it was very low on anti freeze so I filled it after about two rides it was low again so I filled it this time using the bleeder on both heads seems to be holding now
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Theres about 40 threads on overheating. SO besides cleaning the rad. check for that stupid little yellow cap in the overflow bottle & throw it away. It causes the rad tubes to collapse. Then buy a new rad. Fan: It may run but operate at less than 40%. a new one with a shroud helped mine quite a bit. There are a couple of fan controllers that turn the fan on MUCH MUCH earlier. Instead of 208 degrees. Fuel pump if its weak you will be running lean & have cut outs at various times. Pull the tank, put the new pump from NAPA for a Toyota in. Insulate tank & lines right up to injectors. (My opinion only not anybody else's so don't crucify me please). Also, take it to a dealer you feel is competent & ask them to install the updated SW to fix the high exhaust heat issue. It used to melt the plastic. I have a stir stick I use from my melted left side plastic.
Theres about 40 threads on overheating. SO besides cleaning the rad. check for that stupid little yellow cap in the overflow bottle & throw it away. It causes the rad tubes to collapse. Then buy a new rad. Fan: It may run but operate at less than 40%. a new one with a shroud helped mine quite a bit. There are a couple of fan controllers that turn the fan on MUCH MUCH earlier. Instead of 208 degrees. Fuel pump if its weak you will be running lean & have cut outs at various times. Pull the tank, put the new pump from NAPA for a Toyota in. Insulate tank & lines right up to injectors. (My opinion only not anybody else's so don't crucify me please). Also, take it to a dealer you feel is competent & ask them to install the updated SW to fix the high exhaust heat issue. It used to melt the plastic. I have a stir stick I use from my melted left side plastic.
yea i read a bunch of them most has problems like inner water seal mud in the rad and air in the engine but the more topic i read the more i find out its just a faulty system. i love this bike when i ride it but it seems like every week im wrenching on it. and its not like my honda where the dealers stock stuff for the rare occasion that it does break the can an dealers around me havent stocked one thing ive asked for so im always waiting for parts. ive finaly got most of it fixed and it wont stop over heating. this is the most unreliable bike ive ever owned and only has 350hrs on it and yet i cant sell it because its the most fun
Really hard to clean radiator in place and equally hard to see if it's clean or not. My g1 800 was overheating and would then bog bad and stall turned out fuel pump was on its way out changed it and added adjustable fan switch both right from local auto parts store and all has been well. I did shred a belt this winter but easy repair and bought belt local, no wait. Check that fuel pressure. Seems like I keep same advice but....
I've got my overheating under control (I hope & pray). 2 more small tricks left for really hot days: Engine Ice coolant & pull the thermostat.
BTW, Ive had this thing apart front to back. Rad swapped, new fan w shroud, new exhaust w ceramic coat, header wrap & extra shields, oil cooler with its own fan, new fuel pump, Tune Monster, elka shocks, new ball jnts, A-Arm bushings, U jnts.... Just about 1700Kms. (1055mi). I wouldn't do that unless the power was so good.
I also run a 06 800. They work good if taken care of. Engine ice works great but I believe I have a small leak with my coolant into the engine. Every 3-4 months I top it up. Not sure if it's work ripping apart yet for over heating haha. I would like to get a rad relocation kit which I bet would help too. Have you made any mods yet? I did a new fuel pump, 2in lift, snorkel kit, belt (after a blew up my other one ) led bar,
Trying to decide what's next
when i replaced the fuel pump mount I checked the pressure it stayed just above 50 psi while review but for that split second it would drop under 50 when I would go from idle to nailing the throttle but I expected that. so far I haven't had any real engine problems beside leaky valve seals witch the rtv didn't fix leaking bleaker gaskets for the anti freeze and the over heating. I didn't mind the work so much but the over heating might be a selling point for me. will take the rad off and try to clean it better
Is your fan spinning?
Are you 100% certain that radiator isn't clogged? Both my machine and my daughters renegade suffered from this within one year of ownership. I would wash and wash, not until I took the radiator and saw the mud clogged between it and the fan.
I have a 07 and was over heating all the time, even if it wasn't very warm out. I would "Limp Home" all the time. I always thought my radiator was clean as i would spray it out after every ride with a pressure washer. Well I decided to relocate my radiator up on top, first off you never really clean the rad out by spraying it when it's in the bike, I was shocked on how much it was packed even though it looked clean. Secondly I also at this time ended up doing the waterpump seal as it was leaking and found a couple fins broke off the impeller so I replaced that. Now that I have moved the rad even on the hotest days and in the deepest mud we ride it hasn't over heated once. I bet if you pul your rad out and start blowing it out you will be surprised how plugged it is..
there is a piece of plastic off the front that let's me look in and I can see threw the rad and see parts of the bike the fan runs but as hot as it is I would think it would run more. once I get sometime this weekend I'm gonna take the rad off.
After closer inspection I decided I'm not taking the rad of to clean it. I can see daylight threw the rad everywhere I look besides where I can see the tubing running threw. I let it idol with the cap off and the thermometer in and it went to about 210 and the fan kicked on and within 10-20 sec it dropped below 200 and turned off. I think I want to get a fan controller to keep the temp lower I'm going to look some threads up but if anyone wants to point me in the rite direction I would appreciate it
Fan mod seems to work well, I used the Hayden adjustable controller, comes with all wiring, fuses etc., I placed my probe in the upper right corner( if your sittin on machine) of radiator and wire tied it to the rad hose. Turns on with key, 160-165* if controller fails your fan will still turns on at the factory pre- set temp. I place the controller under pod on Rght side. I have had it for about a year now and last ride it started acting up, it would short cycle fan repeatedly when temp first reached set point and continued until about 10* over set point then it would run steady and shut off when temp dropped but as soon as it reached whatever temp I set, it would start stop, start stop, fan; I am replacing controller under warranty. I am going to put it in a pelican case this time to protect it from water etc better. It has worked well up to this point
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