They do run very hot, been a lot of posts on here on ways that some have attempted to mitigate the problem (just do a search for hot legs or high heat).

 

on something of age would go through and take the rad out, change the coolant so you know you have the right mix, and most people dont really clean the rad the front will be shiny but wont pass air because the back is full of crud, degreaser like simple green helps and wont hurt the paint


would go throught the carb if it is or clean injectors, lean engine causes heat too, once you have made sure you at least have what you had stock then you can richen the tune

 

on something of age would go through and take the rad out, change the coolant so you know you have the right mix, and most people dont really clean the rad the front will be shiny but wont pass air because the back is full of crud, degreaser like simple green helps and wont hurt the paint
would go throught the carb if it is or clean injectors, lean engine causes heat too, once you have made sure you at least have what you had stock then you can richen the tune

Please proof read what you post. Your posts are very hard to follow & trying to understand what you are actually trying to convey can be next to impossible.

 

Wrap the exhaust in header wrap. I don't believe the older models need richening up.

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He said clean the rad, change the fluid, run a can of injector cleaner, and then consider a fuel tuner...

 

Thanks.

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Yesterday I soaked the rad for half hr in machine, then hit it with pressure nozzle and knocked a bunch of dirt out. Seemed to run a bit cooler.

Going to attempt to get rad out and clean inspect more.

Tearing down the front end seems like I should just put new rad In the machine do to the age, and time spent removing it. Then I know it's good for sure. Aluminum with 30% cooling increase on eBay is only 85 bucks, OEM replacement there 70.00.

Boyesen makes a super pump that claims increased cooling as well, bit spendy, anyone running one on there machine?

Thanks for all the input guys much appreciated.

Well time to go out and bust some knuckles

 

Aluminum with 30% cooling increase on eBay is only 85 bucks, OEM replacement there 70.00.

For a new radiator ????
I doubt it .
Last time I looked they were in the neighborhood of $300.00 .

You probably bent all the fins if you hit it with a pressure washer .

 

If you are not careful when using a pressure washer on the radiator you could be bending the cooling fins over and thus blocking the air movement & defeating the purpose of even cleaning the radiator. The cooling fins can not do their job if they are bent over and blocking the passage of air through the radiator. It is best to remove the rad when you clean it.

 

Old can ams run hot and don't need much to overheat. The cooling system is pushed even when working properly.Make sure rad didn't swell. Rad cap good. Take rad out and clean. Wrap pipes/ ceramic coat. Reflash ecu or add fan controller/ fuel controller.

 

I clean mine with a 3700 psi 4 GPM pressure washer but use a 40 degree 065 tip that lowers the pressure to around 1900 psi, and stay 2 foot back... doesn't bend the fins.

 

you've had the bike 2 weeks? how many times you do this?

 

I did t use a pressure washer, I used a jet nozzle on a hose, 35psi, lol.

Replacement radiators on eBay are 83.00 for aluminum, and 70.00 for regular replacement, go freakin look.

Anyway, the radiator is clean, can see through the fins perfect, and I don't have any bent ones either.

Going to replace the thermostat after I flush the system, any tips on a solution to flush coolant system with.

While tore down I ordered new valve cover gaskets, leakin, and there thick grime were you can't see with covers on, so that will help some. Thinkin a spray foam degreaser?

Air filter is crud, ordered new one as well.

And what the ell, I'm in wrenching mode so ordered new belt and oil filter too. Noticed the clutch cooling rubber that connects the snout is shot, so add that on too.

So after its all back together I'll let ya know how it all went, parts looking like 9 July.

 

Do a search for Hayden temperature controller. The problem is it has a 150 degree thermostat but the fan comes on at 200 plus and then shuts off around 190 or 195 - the thermostat is basically running wide open and just getting very hot coolant. Set the Hayden to come on around 190 and shut off around 160 and it will make a huge difference. I've done this to my 800 and 400; my brother and his son have both done it. It will keep your leg much cooler and it addresses the source of the problem rather than putting a bandaid on a cut like wrapping the pipes does. It's been a while since I've done it so search for the specifics.

 

My friend had a rene that got hot..... eventually it went into limp mode....

Changed fluids then a suggestion to clean the rad.... wow was i surprised how dirty it was..... we steeped it in water overnight and because of the **** that come off it we steeped it once again in a cleaning fluid...... FIXED THE PROBLEM, so may be try that

 

99% of the time guys say rad is spotless. Then they take rad out and it's full of mud.

Plugged rad us usually the culprit.

 

Hey all, so I flushed the coolant system, distilled vinegar/distilled water, installed new thermostat, new coolant 50/50 prestone mix. Then installed the Hayden T/C, I just taped the sensor on the radiator hose like what was mentioned in another thread. Also put a switch on the dash for winter plowing. Everything works as advertised.

It was 1pm and 94f here in CO at 7200ft when I took it for a test blast, ran down a gravel road in high and fan didn't come on, as expected, jumped off in a field and ran around in low spinning tires sliding sideways and fan kicked on, but sitting for maybe 2 mins and it shut off. Put it in high, tore up the field fan kicked on, went on the gravel road, cruised at 50 and fan shut right off.

Still some decent heat on the legs, but nothing like before, were ya had to move your feet to outside edge of pegs and spread um, lol. Now if I slide back on the seat a bit, it's not bad at all.

Overall it's running cooler, and I'm happy first attempt wiring up the T/C worked, lol. Will be so much better now up in the high country. Really have nothing to test temps, like to get it dialed a bit better and to ensure its set correctly. I didn't touch the pot, left it as it came from the factory.

Thanks to all for the great input, much appreciated.

 

Wrap the exhaust with header wrap and use the silicon spray to seal it. this will bring down the temp 150/200 degrees. reflash your ecm with steve at monster, it will add fuel which will lower the temps a good bit to and he can make it so your fan comes on at any temp, i think most guys use 180'. that way your not guessing with that cheap controller you have no idea what its set to. the reflash does a lot of other nice thing to that will make the bike run awhile lot better.

 

Reflash is down the road, want to wait till I pick up a few other dodads for it and then have it flashed for those mods. So went the cheap route for now.

Question on the pipe wrap, was looking at the different types, and seems the titanium is what I'm seeing on most bikes here. Is the titanium basalt the one to go with, or no?

Thanks for checkin in, much appreciated

 

I just drove the crap out of my stock 2013 800r today and it was a bit warm on the left leg but nothing really bad.
rad is clean, but other than that, nothing.

 

I just drove the crap out of my stock 2013 800r today and it was a bit warm on the left leg but nothing really bad.
rad is clean, but other than that, nothing.

if you drive open stuff, fast not as bad as slow tight stuff especially once you get some mud or seeds in the rad

 

the tune or dobek ejk is the most important mod there is for heat. i didnt do anything else and now i can wear shorts, drive slow muddy trails without the light. stock it burned my legs literally after being on it for an hour. the dobeck you can change down the road if you want to add a filter or exhaust. alot easier than a tune and those are guesstimates of the tuner for universal base like can am issues in the first place. the dobeck you just hit some buttons and can tweak it to your machine and area



the pipe wrap you have to redo all the time if you have any mud or water type trails. the stock fan setting is good too, if the fuel map is corrected.

 

Most all Of my riding is here the the mountains of CO, have to hunt mud holes, especially this year, some nice open parks with smooth trails, lots of gravel road and ROCKs, lotta rocks.

10 to 30 mph most of the day riding, don't use high much. Lotta crawling around. Basically used for camping trips, hunting and fishing, don't really go on rides to just ride around.

Right now just working on getting new tires and suspension done. Down the road add performance mods.