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Discussion Starter #1
To begin the shocks are very easy to take off and put back on. I used my ATV jack and just got all four wheels off the ground. Tried the ratchet strap method for the first one and it worked ok but took some dicking around and wasn't the safest thing I have ever done. If your dealer is any good at all they will have the proper tool. I took the other three to them and since they treat me pretty good they set the tool up in the vice and did the other three in about 15-20 minutes, the right tools make all the difference and there was no charge for them to do it. When you get the springs off make sure you clean the adjusters good set then to the lowest setting. I offer this word of caution because on the one I did at home I did NOT do this and I forgot to turn the collar to the minimum setting. I ended up trying to turn the collar down after the install and BROKE it. Had to take that one to the dealer today and put a NEW adjustment cam on it. A new adjuster is about 25 bucks. That was a PITA as I had the bike almost all back together last night. Do it right the first time.
Here is a pick of the bike with just the 28" OL Radials on it and no pipe lift, the tires measure about 27-1/4 at the highest point and the clearance was about 11-7/8 inches at the center front skid plate.



Here is a pic of the front shock with the 1-1/2 pipe spacer beside the stock shock.



I did notice that the lift does almost max the shocks out but there is still a bit of sag which is probably desired. The front has about 1/4-1/2" and the rear is around 1/2-3/4" this is just by letting it settle with body weight and then lifting up on the front or the rear. I never took note of how the rear suspension components looked before the install but there is some more angle to the axles than before but nothing over the top at all. Here is a couple of close ups of rear suspension angles after the install. The grease nipple turns down so you can get it from the bottom;





The rear sway bar has a little more angle as well and gets closer to other parts.



I had read about tie rod end issues but there seems to be no over extension of the ends, although there may be a bit more angle to them.





Front view installed.




Now I was going to put my 29.5 Laws and wheels off my Max on but with the pipe lift installed it does bring the rear wheel closer the the rear fender. More trimming will be required at the rear to clear them.



The fronts should be ok with the trimming already done.



I took it for a short rip around the yard and it is noticably firm with the shocks turned down to the minimum but not overly stiff. It did make the bike taller and ground clearance is right about 13" at the front center skid now. A nice little gain for not a lot of money. Thanks to smoker62 for the billet spacers. Hoping to get out tomorrow and get it a little dirty, things are starting to thaw a bit around here.

 

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Looks good, I wondered what a pipe lift was. So you gained 1 1/8 " ground clearance. Hope it works out and the ride isn't to stiff for you. If you find it rough going it gives a good excuse to do a shock upgrade...he,he,
 

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looks good wally, nice tutorial.
I see you stayed away from the rubberdown spacers
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think it will ride ok. We're more of a roll along slowly kind of gang most of the time, lol. Very social group, heh heh heh.
I was going to and may still do the Rubberdown spacers but got a real good deal on these ones so I thought I would give them a go. smoker62 and I worked out a deal on them and they were essentially free. FREE is good, heh heh heh.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good write up! is he selling more spacers? Im looking for a good set r making my own out of cam-locks. does anyone know if these will fit by any chance? CAN AM Bombardier Outlander 2" Lift Kit 650 800 (fits all CAN AM ATV's) LK#00 | eBay
Good write up! is he selling more spacers? Im looking for a good set r making my own out of cam-locks. does anyone know if these will fit by any chance? CAN AM Bombardier Outlander 2" Lift Kit 650 800 (fits all CAN AM ATV's) LK#00 | eBay
$20? I'd stick far far away from it. Especially since he doesn't even specify the year. Get the kit from the known people like highlifter or rubberdown customs.
The 1000 shock bodies are bigger around than the Gen1 800s. Probably to small. PM smoker62 he could give you the billet pipe size he used.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Outlander 1000 Owners. Just do this!

For you Outy 1000 owners I am going to tell you that adding a pipe lift will completely change the way you your bikes rides, feels and handles! I had mine out today after adding a 1-1/2 pipe lift and it is now the same bike I rode last time out! My shock adjusters are set at the minimum with the lift installed and it is really hard to believe the difference! It is firm but not stiff, more clearance and when you get on on the throttle the BIG squat that used to be in the rear suspension is almost totally gone. The power goes right to the ground and forward momentum is brutally fast! I know these things work good but take my word for it after the tires and clutching I added this is the next best modification. I may even go as far as saying if I had of done this mod before tires and clutching it might be the BEST mod you could do! Not kidding here at all, if you want a very simple, inexpensive mod you can do at home with the right pipe and a spring compressor just do it!
 

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Alright since I'm not familiar with adjustable shocks at all I'm a bit curious. I know mine are adjustable and I have no idea what setting they're on, but I want to do whatever to get additional ground clearance. I was looking at twisting the silver thing but it feels as if I'd break it. I'm wanting to do the 2" spring spacers instead of the 1 1/2 though.
 

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rkc, the pic you took of your front shocks together made them look the same after you put the spacer, shouldn't the one with the spacer be longer? Anyway the reason I ask is I bought a RDC lift and installed the front only. Well 1 year later I installed the back spacer and I didn't notice any difference. I laid it side by side with the other rear and they were the same height. I even installed them back without any adjustment to my jack. Is this normal or is there any adjustment to the shock after putting the spacer. Sorry for the long post.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
rkc, the pic you took of your front shocks together made them look the same after you put the spacer, shouldn't the one with the spacer be longer? Anyway the reason I ask is I bought a RDC lift and installed the front only. Well 1 year later I installed the back spacer and I didn't notice any difference. I laid it side by side with the other rear and they were the same height. I even installed them back without any adjustment to my jack. Is this normal or is there any adjustment to the shock after putting the spacer. Sorry for the long post.
The spacer just takes the sag out of the spring and stiffens it up. If you lift up on your bike on either end you can see how much sag is in the suspension, the spacer cuts down on the sag. It does not change the length but by taking the sag out you gain some clearance. As I mentioned push down on the front of your ride and measure the ground clearance, then pick up on the front end of the bike and measure the clearance, a pipe lift just serves as an easy way to stiffen it up and gain a bit of clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Look at the adjusters under your springs on each shock. Turn them up to stiffen them BUT clean the shocks the best you can first. I would then spray something like WD40 on them to lube the shock surface a bit under the adjuster, let it run down the inside of the adjuster, just don't get it on your brakes. You have a spanner wrench in the bikes tool kit. If that doesn't work use a pair of channel locks BUT be careful, if they are really seized you will break the adjuster, trust me. If all else fails and you can't turn them you will have to take all the shocks off, compress the springs and take them off, then you can get at the adjusters. If you are going to do the pipe lift anyway do not adjust them and just clean them when you get the springs off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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I added my 1 1/2 pipe lift Friday night and was out all weekend like Wally said it makes the bike a whole new machine I have the backs on the second click and the front on the fourth click suits the Riding I do and am very happy with it well worth it took me a hour and a half to do all four could probably do it faster now i got things figured out but cheap and very effective mod I put 27" big horns on stock rims today and didn't have to trim anything and the tire get me moving much better then the stock
 

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I would like to go with the 1 1/2 inch pipe lift. Looking at the rubber down customs site I'm having a hard time seeing the price on them. Does anyone know what they cost. Maybe I should go with 2" instead. Just looking to stiffen up the shock and get away from the front end dive.
 

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Thanks for the write up I was wondering how much difference it would actually make. Im sure it will be different for my 650 but now I know I wanna do it.
 

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Good thread man! This should help a lot of people.
 

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I would like to go with the 1 1/2 inch pipe lift. Looking at the rubber down customs site I'm having a hard time seeing the price on them. Does anyone know what they cost. Maybe I should go with 2" instead. Just looking to stiffen up the shock and get away from the front end dive.
Our spacer kit for the 400/500 outlander and the 1000 outlander is $135, the spacer/bracket kit for the 650/800 outlander or 500/800 renegade is $150, all the prices and details are found right here ;)

rubberdown customs - atv lift kits for Can Am Outlander and Renegade X , Do it your self installation instructions, front and back kits

If a person wanted a full spacer style kit for the renegades or the 650/800 outlander, we could do that as well for the $135 price.
 
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