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10 hr service: Necessity or hype?

8K views 33 replies 17 participants last post by  nuffsaid 
#1 ·
So, I am just wondering how necessary the 10 hr service really is. For those of you that do your own service work and have performed this service, how much debris have you actually seen in the oil? Has anyone taken the time to adjust the valves and actually needed to make changes?

My personal opinion is that this is a way to get you back into the dealer and allow the dealer to make some easy money for a service that isn't really necessary.

Before you start attacking me for bringing this up, let me give you a little history about myself. I have been turning wrenches for over 40 years and building engines for 38 as well as transmissions, differentials, etc. I am an ASE certified Master Tech and a maintenance supervisor at a fairly large state facility.

If a job is done clean, there is very little metal contamination. Break in wear on new differentials is usually negligible although some people like to change their rear axle oil on a new truck after 1000 miles, it is not required by the manufacturer. Magnetic drain plugs or magnets placed in the sump usually pick up most break in metals.

Some engine builders run a break in oil when running an engine on a dyno and then change the oil as soon as the dyno run is over, but I doubt that any manufacturers do this.

So, I have a brand new Outlander 800 Max dps 2013 model and I am debating when I will do my first service and how far I will go. I have shell rotella t6 on hand for when I will do the first engine oil change and I have one oem oil filter (last one I will buy) that cost about 15.00. I can buy K&N high flow oil filters for less than 5.00 each, so I won't be giving the dealer money on that.

When I was getting the overview from my dealer on my new ride, he told me about the service light coming on at 10 hrs and needing to bring it in to have it cleared and the initial service done. I told the manager that I had just purchased software at work that will allow me to access the computer on all the Can Ams, clear codes and program keys and you could have heard a pin drop.

I am usually over the top on needed maintenance, but I won't throw money away on unneeded things. If my oil is dirty, I will change it regardless of miles, but if it is still clean, it stays in service.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Change all oils.... at least. Check all suspension bolts as they tend to need a snug after bouncing around.
Just did my valves, a couple were tight. Real pia tho..
 
#3 ·
all i did on my 10 hr was change my engine and tranny oils. i clean my bike like crazy after each ride and check over everything. I talked to my mechanic about the valve check he said wait to do it around 25 or 50 hour mark. He said he as never heard or seen them needing to be adjusted at the 10 hour mark and most likely the dealer will not check it either but just say they did. Now call me crazy but i will only run the can am oils. In my bike that way there is no question of did i use the correct weights. My dealer sales the oil change kits for 50 bucks it comes with 3 qrts of oil new Oring filer and crush washers.
 
#4 ·
IMO there is a lot of hype. That is why price varies from dealer to dealer. I am a firm believer in changing oils after a break in period. Almost all oil breaks down and separates from sitting idle for prolonged periods and who really knows how many months the engine and bike sat in a crate.
One thing for sure is; you need to check things for leaks or loosening nuts.
You should be able to hear your valves if they are out of spec. I did hear a friends valves and when he checked, they were a little out of spec after a few thousand KM.
 
#5 ·
IMO there is a lot of hype. That is why price varies from dealer to dealer. I am a firm believer in changing oils after a break in period. Almost all oil breaks down and separates from sitting idle for prolonged periods and who really knows how many months the engine and bike sat in a crate.
One thing for sure is; you need to check things for leaks or loosening nuts.
You should be able to hear your valves if they are out of spec. I did hear a friends valves and when he checked, they were a little out of spec after a few thousand KM.

the engine would not have oil in it while in the crate...
 
#6 ·
You can do the 10 hour service yourself as long as you keep the receipts, from what I have been told....One of the reasons, I took mine to the dealer is because I didn't want to do anything to void my warranty....
 
#8 ·
My oil and filter looked like chrome after 3-4 hrs of hard riding. I'm not saying the oil was junk, But I am saying I'm glad I dumped that metal instead of circulating that thru the engine any more than necessary. The oil filter was actually shiny. I'll dig out my old cell phone and see If I can find a picture of it...
 
#12 ·
oil can separate and get old why else is there exp date on most name brand oil. I deal with bulk oil every day at work and old stock with separate in totes after 9 to 12 months. When we drain that tote it will leave a thick wax on the bottom , always check born on date :tools1:
 
#13 ·
Kind of related; when I did my first oil change with my truck, I walked into the shop as they pulled the oil filter off; the tech showed me how much metal was free floating. He then showed me my plug that had lots metal stuck to the magnet. I am so glad I went in well before the first suggested oil change.
Do your first oil and fluid change at 10hrs. I bet most dealers don't take off the valve covers to check the valves, but listen to the sounds.
 
#14 ·
I changed the oil in mine at a little over the 10 hour mark. Both engine oil and the transmission oil had silver to it. The first change on power sports engines seems to be a critical one to do especially when oil and filters are cheap compared to engines. The biggest pita was getting the plug screwed back into the transmission, kept on dropping it and having to clean it before trying again.
After looking at all the room around the engine I will bring mine in to have the valves adjusted this spring.
 
#18 ·
My transmission oil looked like that too at 10 hrs. It was like liquid chrome.
I ride my 1,000 like a 1,000 was made to be ridden, so I'm sure mine made more metal than an old man putting around his yard idling half the time.

I break mine in hard, just like it will be ridden, so the rings are seated right away!
 
#17 ·
Sounds like results are all over the board. Most new cars and trucks do not have early oil change for break in. I have a new 2015 Duramax diesel at work and it still hasn't had it's first oil change at 5500 miles. It has 18% oil life left.

A friend of mine at work has an Outlander Max 1000 and when he did his 10 hr service all of the oils were crystal clear. Dealer told him they never adjust the valves at 10 hrs. He also told me that all of the gear boxes have magnetic plugs. This is probably the most important feature to capture suspended iron particles.

So does anyone know for sure what type of oil in the engine for factory fill? Is it a true break in oil or same as they sell for refill?
 
#19 ·
The thing is we pay 9k plus for our machines whats another 50-100.00 gonna hurt.. I did mine at 14hrs and the engine oil looked decent. As far as the gear box and axles they were sliverish color. It cost me 70.00 to do my own 10hr service with a can am filter, rotella t oil and valvoline synthetic gear oil. Dealer said at 10hrs they refuse to touch the valves at anything before 30hrs. They said they did hundreds of machines that were barely off spec at 10hrs so its a waste of their time to do it.. Im at 6X hrs and still havent done my valves but going to at some point this summer. Not paying 200.00 to get the dealer to do it.. Also the dealer said keep your recipts and they cant void your warranty as long as you used the correct oil.. Some place on here someone emailed can am customer service and they said the same thing. Now a days they is oil analysis so they can tell exactly what went wrong.
 
#22 ·
It was from me, Deadman. There's a difference. I'm not afraid to tell you, "I don't know." But when I tell you something is fact.... It's fact.
 
#25 ·
My oil itself was golden also, but it was full of metal shavings if you looked really close at the drain pan and the filter media after I drained it.
I'm sure yours will be fine, but get the metal out of their before too long.

You have to remember I put about 150 miles on mine in the first 3 hours. If you are just driving slow and low rpm, I'm sure your hours can be stretched.
 
#30 ·
So far I have around 12 hours on the clock and about 90 miles. But in reality I only have 50 miles, because all but 12 miles on the odo have been with tracks on and I am racking up 2 miles for every one mile traveled. I am going for another ride today and then I will see if she is ready for her first service.
 
#31 ·
Great link elk ivory :th_smiliethumbsup:
I had the dealer do my first service but plan to do the rest. I have a BMW F800GS which has the 798cc Rotax in it, shim and bucket valve adjustment, and the "real" adjustment need has been pushed way out. Reports on that engine are 50K and valves still pretty good.
N
 
#32 ·
My dealer recommended that I bring mine in at 25 hours. In fact they never said anything about the 10 hour service. But when I asked about it, they stuck to the 25 hour service recommendation. Not sure I will wait that long, what do you guys think should I wait for the 25 hours?
 
#33 ·
Just keep a close eye on everything. I am now at over 20 hrs and 210 miles, well actually only about 110 miles since running the tracks has doubled the actual mileage. My oil is still super clean. I will probably run the factory fill until 50 hours and then replace it with Rotella T-6 5w40 synthetic. I pulled my tracks off today and put the tires back on. I did go ahead and grease everything since I ran in lots of deep snow.
 
#34 ·
I had to pull off the side plastic since I bought a speedo healer and so I decided to due my first service. I put the engine oil into a clean container and it was still super clean light brown. No metal at all in the oil filter. I drained the gear box and it had some metal in it, but I have seen worse. The crankcase is now full of T-6 Rotella and 75/140 Valvoline synthetic in the gear box. The rear diff was still clean. One thing I did notice, was the rear driveshaft seems to have excessive run out. I didn't put my indicator on it, but it looked like .050 plus of run out. Now that I have the speedo healer on and calibrated, my speedo should be pretty close when I run my tracks. I just might have to put them back on so I can go play in the snow.
 
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