@EbenezerScrooge As I understand it, you should be able to hear them when they start getting a bigger gap (gotta get close enough to the heads and listen). I just did mine since I was in that area anyways.

I'm very new to these too, but if you've got more than 100 hours on your machine and have never done it, you might as well check it out. You can look at your timing chain wear while you are there too. Especially if you have already set aside some time for maintenance.

I bought a manual on a CD that has different Can-Am quads on it. I'll check it out tonight and if yours is listed, I'll reply here with the service interval. What's the year size and model of yours?

 

@EbenezerScrooge As I understand it, you should be able to hear them when they start getting a bigger gap (gotta get close enough to the heads and listen). I just did mine since I was in that area anyways.

I'm very new to these too, but if you've got more than 100 hours on your machine and have never done it, you might as well check it out. You can look at your timing chain wear while you are there too. Especially if you have already set aside some time for maintenance.

I bought a manual on a CD that has different Can-Am quads on it. I'll check it out tonight and if yours is listed, I'll reply here with the service interval. What's the year size and model of yours?

I got the manual for it, just seems like a bear trying to get ot them on the G2 with the limited space and view, lol.

How were your valves before you started? Quite loose?

 

@BombardierBomb I went ahead and picked up both the valve covers and the water necks from Canamparts guy since he had free shipping on ebay. I also picked up another key to have programmed since I was only given one. It came out to about $143 with tax. Interest free for 6 months with paypal credit so why not? Lol

 

Yeah, I'm sure its alot harder to get to it on the newer ones. Honestly, mine were just out of spec, but the motor has 852 hours on it. I could make a good clicking sound by just manually rocking the rocker arms when the cylinders were at TDC. It seemed to idle fine when I got it running for the first time. The rear timing chain was slapping the case so I wouldn't have heard the valve train anyways, lol. That and I pretty much immediately started taking it apart, lol.

 

Alrighty, I got the motor thrown together (finally got my seal) and installed it this afternoon. I had to give the battery a little jump, but she fired right up and I found no leaks. Going to deal with the front drive shaft, clutch and all the other little stuff this week. Water necks and valve covers should be coming in tomorrow too.

 

Also, apparently the original owner was unaware of what taking care of your equipment means... Look at this freaking oil filter! Who neglects things this badly and how do you get this much crap in your oil?

And no, I didn't drop it on the floor. I couldn't believe it when I took the cover off. I ran my finger around the housing and came out with at least an 1/8" of grit on my finger! After spraying everything down with carb cleaner and wiping it out, it's back to shiny aluminum again.

 

Iv seen worse... had a westernstar towed in the other day no start... pulled the filter out and it had collapsed.. then he tried to blame us because his driver used 12 cases of coolant in a week...lol..

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Lmao, well actually not funny for the owner of the truck. I think I'd have a serious talk with my driver. I know theres a lot of people out there that don't know any better, but damn...

When I drove for Buweiser we got some new Peterbilts with the DPF system when it first came out (none of our prior trucks had it) and one of the guys kept going through turbos, but mine never blew on me. They started asking me why mine kept lasting and I asked them if they were shutting off the regen (it was automatic, but could be manually started or shut down) before they came into town. I got "why would I need to do that?" in return. They were in full regen on the highway and the speed was keeping things cool until they exited and came to a stop, then the turbos would cook themselves when they shut it down. I mean, I could be been wrong, but I firmly believe mine kept ticking because of it.

Hell, one of the guys had to pick my truck up from having a recall done and when he got back he said " man this thing is a piece of ****. It ain't got no power and it's making a loud whooshing sound!". I opened the hood and the damn intercooler to turbo boot was loose and had blown off. He drove it for an hour like that!

I'm not a mechanic, but 99% of the time logic steers me in the right direction.

 

One more thing to add for tonight. If you find that your O-ring for the oil filter needs to be replaced, this will work in a pinch. I think it's made of viton too. By pinch, I mean it literally, lol. Mine was loose on the cover (I'm guessing just old or might have got some carb cleaner on it) and it got pinched when I put the cover back on.

 

Valve covers and water necks showed up today, so I went ahead and installed them. I also prepped my clutch with a new rebuild/refresh kit.

I've got to relocate the starter wire and ground because, I wasn't thinking when I routed them, but after that I should be able to start putting the exhaust and all the other parts back on.

Thanks @BombardierBomb for reminding me about the aluminum goodies. Hopefully they prevent any future leaks.

I do have a question though... Do I need to take the front differential loose in order to ge the fron drive shaft back on the motor? I got the rear back on when I was installing the motor, but there was no way to do both while wrestling with everything else.

 

Do I need to take the front differential loose in order to ge the fron drive shaft back on the motor?

I'm afraid you do. When I was just doing this, I pulled the rear diff back, that one's much easier to access and work with, than the front. That allowed me to stab the front driveshaft in for setting the motor mounts, then dealt with the rear driveshaft last.

@CanAmRancher1 offered there might be enough slip, in the front shaft, if you've got a set of Oetiker clamp pliers, to remove the boots and try to suck everything down tight. When I was looking at it, I didn't realize how tight that rear boot held everything. There's a decent amount of stroke in that spine section, if you can get that boot loose.

 

It's a little more work, but that's ok since I have to replaced the inner boot on one of the front CV shafts anyways.

I just cleaned, greased and crimped a new boot onto the front shaft so I think I'm gonna leave that alone and just loosen the diff instead.

I still need another 3/8" or so of compression in that joint to get it connected back on the through shaft and I don't see it happening unless the diff can be moved. The only reason the shafts came off so easy when I removed the engine is because the boots were torn anyways and the front/rear shafts separated at the splines in the middle.

I'll get it back on, I just needed some confirmation that a loose front diff would get it done.

 

So... I threw some hi temp paint (color matches the valve covers) that I "found" at work on the header system yesterday and put the exhaust back on today. I filled up the radiator and fired the old girl up.

It runs pretty decent, but how long does it take to "burp" the coolant system on these things? I had to keep adding water to the point that I got worried and checked the oil to make sure that it wasn't mixing with it. It was also bubbling with the cap off, (tiny bubbles) but I didn't see any steam from the exhaust either so I guess I'm good.

I noticed that the fan never shuts off either. It comes on the minute you energize the system, is that a modification that the PO has done? He claimed that the quad would hit 85 MPH too (I know better than to believe that), maybe it has a big bore kit installed by the guy he bought it from, lmao. I'll find out soon enough when I mash the throttle next week.

 

how long does it take to "burp" the coolant system on these things?

They can be annoyingly tedious to burp, especially when disassembled to the extent you had yours. There are the little bleeder screws on tops of both heads, you should be able to utilize them without fear of failure, MrRpm ones, right?

I noticed that the fan never shuts off either. It comes on the minute you energize the system, is that a modification that the PO has done?

If you disconnect the coolant temp sensor, the system goes into protection mode, throws the fan full-time. There might be a wiring mod the PO has done, but the sensor could also be dead shorted or a harness issue that's hiding it from the ECM, so it's running the fan as a result.

 

Found another issue needing a quick cheap remedy. I was planning on welding a shell back over it, but appears (I knew it had a hole, just not this bad until I removed it) to be nothing left... I have a line on something that I can modify, but it may not be around anymore. Fingers crossed that it's still there.

 

Understood! Yes, I have the bleeder screws and was working with them, but they didnt seem to be doing much... it probably needs to be ran longer that 20 minutes of idling.

The fan doesn't bother me, but I would like a working temp sensor in case it starts overheating and doesn't go into limp mode. Theres no adaptation needed for replacing that, right? I have a VW and damn near everytime you replace a sensor they want you to adapt it to the ecm.

 

No nothing like that. Only two "dealer trips" things that come to mind, are a new key- that needs to be paired to the ECM, and changing the TPS- that needs the sweep zero'd, both BUDS procedures.

Everything else clears or re-learns upon resolution or run-time

 

Awesome, I appreciate all the help!

 

I figured out the fan issue today while I was pulling the CV shaft and loosening the front diff. Either the PO or the person who had it before them has the fan grounded to the frame and tied in to the hot side of the power port in the gauge pod.

I did see two wires all by their lonesome, in their own loom. It's possible those are the original fan connections and I may tie into them to see what happens.

Anyways, the shaft install was very easy once the diff was loose and the whole process wasn't very difficult at all. Well, aside from those damn T-40 torx screws holding the brake caliper on. Busted my knuckles and broke one bit trying to get them out. I only pulled the left hand shaft since it needed the boots and both front tires. I was able to hold backup behind the right hand brake rotor with a swivel/short socket/ratchet and hit up the left hand side with an impact/extension.

My exhaust plans fell through though... There was a Kubota RTV1000 diesel that had caught fire and burned up where I work and the muffler was exactly the same size (I measured the dimensions on one of the good ones at our shop). I took a reciprocating saw and a ratchet set with me to its location, only to find that it had been hauled off to the scrap yard already! Damn the luck, lol. I guess I'll have to look at some other options to keep this thing quiet. Perhaps one of those universal fit, $50 Amazon motorcycle mufflers? Any other ideas are welcome.

Merry Christmas everyone, I hope you all enjoy it!

 

This is what I am running

Looney tuned exhaust install

Hey everyone, Finally got my exhaust in and started installing it, the mid pipe seemed to have a slightly incorrect angle as once I put the can on I was about 1.5 inches short of the mount. I finally got it in but really had to force it to get it close enough to install the bolts, mainly the...

www.can-amforum.com

 

That just might be the ticket, but what's the sound like? Someone in the post mentioned it sounded like a V8, lol. I want it to be reasonable quiet, think, going to the deer stand at 5:00 A.M.

Also, one thought I had about this fan thing... I may just install a 3 way rocker switch on the gauge pod, this way I can put it in auto or full on.

 

What's the guts of the exhaust look like?

Can you weld? I'd cut that pipe off, pull the hanger and go to the metal store to get pipe in matching diameter and weld it on.

Amazon special diy for a maverick -

 

That particular exhaust is what I may be looking at modding to fit. The original muffler has no guts in it. It's pretty much an expansion chamber right now with alot of holes rusted in it.

There was a whole dual exhaust cat back system for a car in a dumpster here at work and I thought about cutting one of the mufflers out for some free material. I was going to cut it up and rebuild the original with the baffles and exterior sheet metal.

I may run back by there and get one of them before it gets buried or runs off too.

 

That particular exhaust is what I may be looking at modding to fit. The original muffler has no guts in it. It's pretty much an expansion chamber right now with alot of holes rusted in it.

There was a whole dual exhaust cat back system for a car in a dumpster here at work and I thought about cutting one of the mufflers out for some free material. I was going to cut it up and rebuild the original with the baffles and exterior sheet metal.

I may run back by there and get one of them before it gets buried or runs off too.

Yah, don’t constrain it too much it may back fire and stuff. I know quads rely on back pressure.

Id get the Amazon one and follow suite what buddy did there, seems to have turned out real well.

 

We're on the same wave length with that. Just to many ifs and more work than it's worth to try and make the old one new again.

 

Yah I’d go with that Amazon or eBay special. Tweak it a bit and make it work for your machine. Down the road it can always be rebuild (repacked) if needed.
Or really try and find a Outlander specific exhaust that works with your year machine

 

Been throwing around the idea of finding some orange back lit (it'll match the factory gauge) digital gauges for temp and oil pressure too, but that's down the road a bit. Thinking about a voltage gauge as well, but theres only so much room on that gauge pod.

 

@TheSponge I'm likely going to go that route since most of the amazon/ebay cheapies are around $50 vs. $500 for exact fit aftermarket. Plus, aftermarket is usually designed for power gains and tends to be on the noisy side.

 

I got the old girl back together! Update on the wiring: I couldn't get power to the original wiring that I found, so I removed and jumpered the fan relay and voila, 12v at the old fan connection. I tied back into it, reinstalled the relay and heated up the temp sensor, but all I got was a high temperature display/engine light. The sensor is apparently good, but for some reason I'm not getting a signal to close the relay. I spliced into the harness under the fuse box for installing an override switch for the fan so I can at least run it for now.

I still need to change the trans and diff oil, the shocks will need some new bushings (or replace the shocks all together), as does everything else, clutch needs some new parts and I will likely be changing all the other cv boots at some point too. For now, it'll ride the way it is.

 

Nice write up!! Thanks for keeping us posted.