First off power steering (dps), a qe visco-loc that engages faster then the previous years, a 650watt magneto, cast aluminum wheels, improved front suspension geometry and thats all i know from reading can-am's website.

 

Yep biggest differences are the DPS and Visco QE..both are well worth paying extra for IMO.
In addition to the stuff listed above the 2010 has the belt intake routed higher. There is the XT-p version(Black automotive style paint) and the Camo pattern is new on the 2010.
The 10's are 71 hp, 09 is 68hp but apparently that change hapened somtime during the 09 model year according to CARB,so posiibly some 09s have 71.
Another change that apparently happened sometime during 09 was fuel cap. from 5.3 IIRC to 4.3,so i believe some 09s got the 5.3 tanks others the new 4.3 tank.

 

Thanks Highoctane!

I'm wondering what the reasoning was behind reducing the fuel capacity. This leads me into my next question, how are these on fuel compared to the XP because my machine (at the very best) got 65 miles per tank.

 

Ah thats right! the cvt intake, darn forgot about that one.

 

Quadjournal ( something like that ) done a vid shootout between T-Cat, 850XP and 09 800R ( I believe it was new with very little miles ) In any event, both the T-Cat and 850 averaged 15mpg, whereas the 800R averaged 20mpg. Imagine that...more power and better fuel economy.

Also, I have an 09LTD and love it. Although I would like to have power steering,and the higher CVT intake. As for the QE Visco...yes that is great...but the 09's were an improvement over previous years and to be honest...I think it's great ( for me ). I do not do alot of technical riding, so for my purpose the Visco is perfect.

 

Thanks a lot guys. I'm very excited about this machine and cannot wait to dump my Polaris for the Outlander. It seems like a no brainer to me...better mileage, more power and two up riding.

The soon to be wife is just as excited as I am...now I just need to find a buyer for the Polaris. :th_smiliedance:

 

Good luck on your sale...and enjoy the new weapon. The Max will probably not feel as sporty as a shorter wheelbased machine...it's long and the front end doesn't want to come up. Be careful though...it's stability and ability to handle rough stuff at speed will have you traveling faster than you ever have on previous machines ( it can get you in trouble in a hurry ). Sometimes I glance down at my speedo and I'm shocked how fast I'm travelling. I visit a fishing hole near my cabin in which there is a rugged woods road to access it. I used to do the same ride frequently on my old Kawi 650 ( Prairie ). On the Max I have hit speeds on this road that would have thrown me off the Kawi. A brisk pace on that road ( full of rocks,loose gravel,potholes,washouts etc ) would be 20-30...and then you have to be careful. My last ride on that road had my GPS showing over 50mph max speed, and a rediculous average speed...on a road that I had no buisiness doing it. Arriving at my favorite fishing hole with my heart beating out of my chest...always has me staring at my bike in wonder! It's a monster plain and simple. Where the machine's limits are, is yet a mystery I have no intention of solving! Makes the fishing trips alot more fun though.

 

That was a great discribtion of the power these thing have,I love mine also and it sure makes the trip to the deer woods alot more fun... :th_smiliethumbsup:

 

I looked into the same before buying mine but the 2010 has too much to pass up on for the difference in the money. The DPS is awsome!

 

As much as I loved my 07 800 max, I like the 2010 800 max better. The dps alone is worth going down in power to keep IMO. Thats right I said it. I like the dps that much. I rode 700 miles at Hatfield McCoy in 7 days and didnt even feel like I had ridden the dps soaks up all the abuse for you.

The steering stablizer you can buy for the 09 and older can am's is awsome, but just imagine how good it is then add assist.

 

The dps alone is worth going down in power to keep IMO.

Doesn't the 2010 model have 71hp at the crank? How did it go down in power?

Anyhow, I may have a buyer for my machine! The guy needs to sell his machine first but he has a buyer for it already. Will keep everyone posted.

Pete

 

The dps alone is worth going down in power to keep IMO.

Doesn't the 2010 model have 71hp at the crank? How did it go down in power?

Anyhow, I may have a buyer for my machine! The guy needs to sell his machine first but he has a buyer for it already. Will keep everyone posted.

Pete

Like Rob said Jeff means the low end was stronger on his 07...granted his was piped and clutched and apparently a freak of nature Max that could wheelie in high at will ,but it does seem to be a common consensus that the older ones were quicker down low and the 09/10's are stronger mid-top stock for stock.


BTW congrats on the prospective buyer and good luck on the sale! Once you get the Max remove the thumb throttle screw and give it 5-8 hours or so before you pass judgement on the power. Mine changed alot during break in,unlike the 850 that might have gotten a little stronger the Can-Am got alot stronger during break in. At first it was tight feeling and I wasn't really impressed but after about 5 hours that all changed and it pulled noticably harder than my 850 when I would ride them back to back. Unfortunately I never had a chance to line them up before I sold the 850...that would have made a good vid.

 

Doesn't the 2010 model have 71hp at the crank? How did it go down in power?



Pete

Like Rob said Jeff means the low end was stronger on his 07...granted his was piped and clutched and apparently a freak of nature Max that could wheelie in high at will ,but it does seem to be a common consensus that the older ones were quicker down low and the 09/10's are stronger mid-top stock for stock.

I have 77 hours on mine and while it has gotten much better, it still doesnt have the low end like the 07 had. Mid range, it pulls harder and top end. I wood rather have low and mid than high range. I have 904 miles and 77 hours so my average speed is around 11-12. I dont need to go much over 60, but I want to get there in 200'. I like the acceleration, and will be getting a pipe, programmer, and clutch kit installed next week, plus dyno tuned. Maybe that will unleash the beast within.

You may also explore the 650 Helix...as it will help the snap at lower trail speeds. Although, I have yet to do any real testing...it does have more pep at lower trail speeds...however during the one high speed run with the Helix in , I found that low to mid pull was strong...but seemed to hit a flat spot at higher speeds where the acceleration was not as strong...but the engine was reving pretty hard. I have to experiment with my clutch weights maybe.

 

Correct, there is more power in the 09-10's ( 06,07,08's all had 62hp ) early 09's had 68hp, mid to late build 09's and 10's have 71hp. What he ment was the low end specificaly ( the delivery is smoother or more mellow down low due to ECU changes and cams )

 

Just a note , anyone can have the higher CVT intake as its available in the parts catalog next to the stuff about plows. Cost about $80 and not to bad of an install. IIRC it can be put on all the older models even though it listed for the '08-'09's

 

What do you mean remove the thumb throttle screw?? what does that do?

 

There is a throttle stop screw in the thumb throttle assy. Adjusted properly it is suposed to minimize throttle cable stretch,but screwed in to far it will stop the the throttle body from opening all the way. Most are screwed in way too far fromt the factory,I know mine was. You can either remove it(I think most guys remove it),or adjust it properly. First check the throttle free play and make surre the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Then the way I adjusted mine was to back the screw out out all the way then push the thumb throttle WOT. You'll hear and feel the throttlebody hit it's stop. There will now be a gap between the thumb thottle and the surface that the stop screw comes through. Screw the stop screw in until that gap is say .020 or so between the end of the screw and the thumb throttle lever. This will let the throttle body open fully but still stop you from over stressing the cable. The manual actually says to screw it in until it touches and then another turn in or something...I prefer a gap,puts a little more stresson the cable but at least I know I am getting WOT.
Check it from time to time to make sure you still have the gap,on a new machine the cable will likely stretch some. As it stretches adjust the cable.

 

Like Rob said Jeff means the low end was stronger on his 07...granted his was piped and clutched and apparently a freak of nature Max that could wheelie in high at will ,but it does seem to be a common consensus that the older ones were quicker down low and the 09/10's are stronger mid-top stock for stock.


BTW congrats on the prospective buyer and good luck on the sale! Once you get the Max remove the thumb throttle screw and give it 5-8 hours or so before you pass judgement on the power. Mine changed alot during break in,unlike the 850 that might have gotten a little stronger the Can-Am got alot stronger during break in. At first it was tight feeling and I wasn't really impressed but after about 5 hours that all changed and it pulled noticably harder than my 850 when I would ride them back to back. Unfortunately I never had a chance to line them up before I sold the 850...that would have made a good vid.

I rode an 08 Outlander 650 Max and that seemed to have tons of power down low. To be honest, I love the low end power, but I'm sure I will get used to this new beast.

The guy is looking at my machine this morning. He sold his Prairie 700 so now he is looking to buy. Hopefully he will by mine..lol

Thank you again HighOctane for noting the differences and the advice on the different years. How did you break yours in? Did you follow it by the book or did you ride it hard? If I sell my machine today, I'm going to try and beat the dealer up on the price (as I did with the 850) and see if he would throw in the skid plates (Riccochet's) into the sale.

 

Ok good to know guys, thanks!

 

If yours is screwed in as far as mine was you are in for a real treat when you back it out! Will be one of your best "mods" lol.:th_smiliewoo:

 

Little Tip

I noticed you guys were talking early on about the fuel tanks being the same size but didnt have the same capacity. Something i did and i noticed a difference was removed the filler tube. I was looking down in the tank as i was filling it and noticed a clear/white looking tube. So i decided to remove it and sure enough it stuck down in the tank a bit. So there might be where your losing you gal. or so. Kinda a nice little trick i learned. Super cheap and holds extra fuel. Good Luck..

 

I noticed you guys were talking early on about the fuel tanks being the same size but didnt have the same capacity. Something i did and i noticed a difference was removed the filler tube. I was looking down in the tank as i was filling it and noticed a clear/white looking tube. So i decided to remove it and sure enough it stuck down in the tank a bit. So there might be where your losing you gal. or so. Kinda a nice little trick i learned. Super cheap and holds extra fuel. Good Luck..

Yeah, I haven't removed mine but we've talked about the tube,you can get it full with the tube in but you have to burp the tank..fill...shake...fill....shake..fill...shake...still the Cap is 4.3 Gal,you might squeeze in a little more if you fill it slap full..but if you don't burp you get even less than the 4.3. Had't considered removing the tube though. Does it just pull out?

 

Removing tube..

Yeah. i got between the tank and the tube with a screw driver and then grabbed it with a pair of pliers and with a little twisting i was able to work it out. And now there isnt no "Filling..Shaking..Fill..Shake". Works great..

 

Yeah. i got between the tank and the tube with a screw driver and then grabbed it with a pair of pliers and with a little twisting i was able to work it out. And now there isnt no "Filling..Shaking..Fill..Shake". Works great..

Good to know that it comes out. I had posted an idea I had in another thread to take the tube out and drill a couple vent holes in the tube near level with the top of the inside of the tank...that way you could fill it without burping but leave ther tube installed. I just never followed up on trying it.

 

The reason is EPA. Whenever you fill the tank to the rim and the temp changes, it has the chance of expanding. Well those tanks have breathers which if its full it will expand to the outside on the ground. They install these tubes so it leaves a void in the tank for expansion. I wouldnt recommend filling it to the rim out in the cold and then put it in your garage. The fuel will spill out and make it smell.

 

Where is the tank located on the Outlander?

 

under/behind the seat between the gear box and the battery

 

Thanks snoops.