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I just purchased a 2009 DS 250 and 2010 DS 250 for my kids. I have since found out the 2010 has been designated as a class "T" ATV for ages 14 and up, whereas the 2009 is for 16 and up. The issue I have is I would like to have the 2010 run like the 2009. The throttle will not go to the peg like the 2009. From what I can tell the throttle cable is the same. How do you untune the detune? I have not gotten into the carb yet, but would there be an adjustement there.

Thanks, Steve
 

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I just purchased a 2009 DS 250 and 2010 DS 250 for my kids. I have since found out the 2010 has been designated as a class "T" ATV for ages 14 and up, whereas the 2009 is for 16 and up. The issue I have is I would like to have the 2010 run like the 2009. The throttle will not go to the peg like the 2009. From what I can tell the throttle cable is the same. How do you untune the detune? I have not gotten into the carb yet, but would there be an adjustement there.

Thanks, Steve
First off, welcome to the site. Dont know about the tuning but there is usually ALWAYS some adjustments in the carb. Correct me if I am wrong somebody please but on my previous bike, (not an ATV a TW200) the carb is what made most of my differences besides the gearing. Hope you get it figured out. You are definitely in the right place!

Take care
 

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Very interesting. The easiest thing to do is remove the airbox boot off the mouth of the carburetor and visually verify that it's NOT opening 100%. If it's not, there is your problem...
Some of the 90cc's came with a spacer on top of the slide that physically prevented it from opening 100% unless you removed it, not sure that is the case on the 2010 DS250 but something also easy to check.
From there it's cable adjustments... We've seen 07's to 09's have different cable slack from the factory and have different WOT positions. I'll have to double check / compare the parts diagrams to the 2010 again but I don't think the components are different that will prevent 100% throttle opening.
Keep us posted!
 
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Ok. I will try this. I did try to adjust the cable,but it did not change anything. Sorry, but what is WOT?
 

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Wide Open Throttle---WOT
 

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Well just did a little more research and confirmed that the 2010 is the same as the previous years when it comes to the carb (#S16100RCB000), throttle cable (#S17910RCA000) and Thumb Throttle Assembly (#S53190RCA0000).

So it's all in your adjustments now...
 

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Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve

Well just did a little more research and confirmed that the 2010 is the same as the previous years when it comes to the carb (#S16100RCB000), throttle cable (#S17910RCA000) and Thumb Throttle Assembly (#S53190RCA0000).

So it's all in your adjustments now...
 

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Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve
Steve,
Something doesn't make sense from your statement... If you thread the adjuster all the way in (make it shorter), it produces maximum slack and potentially not going to pull the slide all the way open... This is the opposite of what it appears you are trying to accomplish...
When you back it out (make it longer) it takes up the slack and therefore allows the thumb throttle lever to pull the cable farther / open the carb all the way. Can you better describe what is happening that makes you say it "restricted"? Are you saying that the thumb throttle lever doesn't travel as far?

To set the throttle cable slack correctly, you should have about 2mm of slack in the cable at idle when you press the thumb throttle before the cable starts to lift the carb slide. When you let off the throttle, you should be able to hear the slide bottom out in the carb and make a click noise. After that you only need to check if the carb slide is opening all the way to the top so that the carb bore is clear 100%. It is irrelevant how far the throttle lever is at this point.
 

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Thanks for looking this up. I hope to look at it this weekend. The throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars is all the way in. If you back this out, then the throttle becomes even more restricted. I hope there is an adjustment in the carb.

Steve
Steve,
Something doesn't make sense from your statement... If you thread the adjuster all the way in (make it shorter), it produces maximum slack and potentially not going to pull the slide all the way open... This is the opposite of what it appears you are trying to accomplish...
When you back it out (make it longer) it takes up the slack and therefore allows the thumb throttle lever to pull the cable farther / open the carb all the way. Can you better describe what is happening that makes you say it "restricted"? Are you saying that the thumb throttle lever doesn't travel as far?

To set the throttle cable slack correctly, you should have about 2mm of slack in the cable at idle when you press the thumb throttle before the cable starts to lift the carb slide. When you let off the throttle, you should be able to hear the slide bottom out in the carb and make a click noise. After that you only need to check if the carb slide is opening all the way to the top so that the carb bore is clear 100%. It is irrelevant how far the throttle lever is at this point.
Both the 2009 and 2010 came stock with the throttle cable adjuster on the handlebar screwed all the way in. If you back out the throttle lever will travel less. For the 2009 the thumb throttle will travel all the way till it hits the stop on the handlebar. The 2010 as it came still has a good 3/8" to go before it hits the stop.

I took off the carb and found both 2009 and 2010 look the same. The clip for the needle is in same position and they both have a clip at bottom that the clip/needle rest on. For some reason now, it will not idle and I am not sure if somehow the idle jet is a little plugged up. Also, it seems to have a lot of popping sound out the exhaust so I stopped. Is this caused by bad gas/air mixture.
 

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Both the 2009 and 2010 came stock with the throttle cable adjuster on the handlebar screwed all the way in. If you back out the throttle lever will travel less. For the 2009 the thumb throttle will travel all the way till it hits the stop on the handlebar. The 2010 as it came still has a good 3/8" to go before it hits the stop.

I took off the carb and found both 2009 and 2010 look the same. The clip for the needle is in same position and they both have a clip at bottom that the clip/needle rest on. For some reason now, it will not idle and I am not sure if somehow the idle jet is a little plugged up. Also, it seems to have a lot of popping sound out the exhaust so I stopped. Is this caused by bad gas/air mixture.
There should be no difference between the two years. Is there a threaded adjuster for the cable where it goes into the top of the carb? Did you verify the throttle slide is opening to the top yet? You did something when you had it apart if it won't run right now, did you move the choke at all?
I recall having to clean out the "Air Cut Off Valve" on the side of the carb, it affects the idle mixture and could be causing the backfiring / popping in the exhaust.
Easy enough to remove and clean, blow shop air through. Might have picked up some dirt and plugged a port. See attached picture...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Both the 2009 and 2010 came stock with the throttle cable adjuster on the handlebar screwed all the way in. If you back out the throttle lever will travel less. For the 2009 the thumb throttle will travel all the way till it hits the stop on the handlebar. The 2010 as it came still has a good 3/8" to go before it hits the stop.

I took off the carb and found both 2009 and 2010 look the same. The clip for the needle is in same position and they both have a clip at bottom that the clip/needle rest on. For some reason now, it will not idle and I am not sure if somehow the idle jet is a little plugged up. Also, it seems to have a lot of popping sound out the exhaust so I stopped. Is this caused by bad gas/air mixture.

There should be no difference between the two years. Is there a threaded adjuster for the cable where it goes into the top of the carb? Did you verify the throttle slide is opening to the top yet? You did something when you had it apart if it won't run right now, did you move the choke at all?
I recall having to clean out the "Air Cut Off Valve" on the side of the carb, it affects the idle mixture and could be causing the backfiring / popping in the exhaust.
Easy enough to remove and clean, blow shop air through. Might have picked up some dirt and plugged a port. See attached picture...
There is no cable adjuster near top of carb. I had to take off the choke cable to remove carb. I took a look and blew out air cut off valve, but it looked very clean. It will idle fine when just start up and you can adjust idle speed, but after it warms up the idle goes away and then you can get the pops/backfire to occur by using the throttle. To be sure, the needle with the "c" clip sits on top of the "A" looking clip that sits on the bottom? Do you have anymore pics from shop manual. Thanks, Steve
 

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There is no cable adjuster near top of carb. I had to take off the choke cable to remove carb. I took a look and blew out air cut off valve, but it looked very clean. It will idle fine when just start up and you can adjust idle speed, but after it warms up the idle goes away and then you can get the pops/backfire to occur by using the throttle. To be sure, the needle with the "c" clip sits on top of the "A" looking clip that sits on the bottom? Do you have anymore pics from shop manual. Thanks, Steve
Steve, Sounds like you have things backwards. The "A" looking clip goes above the C clip on the needle, it holds the needle in place (pinching against the bottom of the slide valve) otherwise it can lift up and move around in the slide and needle jet causing inconistent fueling or jammed throttle all together.
See pic.

The air screw on the side of the carb should be around 1 turn out and you'll want the clip in the 2nd from bottom groove on the needle. This richens it up a bit for better throttle response. In addition you'll want a rather fast idle too, helps because there is no accelerator pump on the carb.
Also the DS250 has a notorious deceleration backfire because of the AIAC (Air Injection) unit that draws fresh air into the exhaust header under load to help meet emissions requirements. (lean burn)

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There is no cable adjuster near top of carb. I had to take off the choke cable to remove carb. I took a look and blew out air cut off valve, but it looked very clean. It will idle fine when just start up and you can adjust idle speed, but after it warms up the idle goes away and then you can get the pops/backfire to occur by using the throttle. To be sure, the needle with the "c" clip sits on top of the "A" looking clip that sits on the bottom? Do you have anymore pics from shop manual. Thanks, Steve
Steve, Sounds like you have things backwards. The "A" looking clip goes above the C clip on the needle, it holds the needle in place (pinching against the bottom of the slide valve) otherwise it can lift up and move around in the slide and needle jet causing inconistent fueling or jammed throttle all together.
See pic.

The air screw on the side of the carb should be around 1 turn out and you'll want the clip in the 2nd from bottom groove on the needle. This richens it up a bit for better throttle response. In addition you'll want a rather fast idle too, helps because there is no accelerator pump on the carb.
Also the DS250 has a notorious deceleration backfire because of the AIAC (Air Injection) unit that draws fresh air into the exhaust header under load to help meet emissions requirements. (lean burn)
That was it. I have changed so the needle and clip are below the "A" clip and we are back in business. I was loaded up and headed to the dealer, but I checked my email just before I left. Thank you. I also had to fix the 2009 as I had the needle/clips backwards. This time I noticed the 2009 does not have a plastic sleeve (5/8") between the top of carb and the top of spring. I assume this takes away the spring ability to move more and causes the throttle to not goes as far. Does that make since, otherwise there are no other differences I can see. I plan on taking this out and see what happens.

Thanks for your help. Steve
 

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This time I noticed the 2009 does not have a plastic sleeve (5/8") between the top of carb and the top of spring. I assume this takes away the spring ability to move more and causes the throttle to not goes as far. Does that make since, otherwise there are no other differences I can see.
This is the type of throttle limiter "spacer" that I was referring to in the beginning. Reason I said to verify if the slide was opening all the way by looking in the mouth of the carb. That is your power limited issue, you are only getting 3/4 throttle.
The easiest thing to do is remove the airbox boot off the mouth of the carburetor and visually verify that it's NOT opening 100%. If it's not, there is your problem...
Some of the 90cc's came with a spacer on top of the slide that physically prevented it from opening 100% unless you removed it, not sure that is the case on the 2010 DS250 but something also easy to check...
Can you send me a picture of that plastic 5/8" spacer?


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
spacer

This time I noticed the 2009 does not have a plastic sleeve (5/8") between the top of carb and the top of spring. I assume this takes away the spring ability to move more and causes the throttle to not goes as far. Does that make since, otherwise there are no other differences I can see.
This is the type of throttle limiter "spacer" that I was referring to in the beginning. Reason I said to verify if the slide was opening all the way by looking in the mouth of the carb. That is your power limited issue, you are only getting 3/4 throttle.
The easiest thing to do is remove the airbox boot off the mouth of the carburetor and visually verify that it's NOT opening 100%. If it's not, there is your problem...
Some of the 90cc's came with a spacer on top of the slide that physically prevented it from opening 100% unless you removed it, not sure that is the case on the 2010 DS250 but something also easy to check...
Can you send me a picture of that plastic 5/8" spacer?
Mbarry, I attached 3 files of the spacer. Once again thanks for your help. Steve
 

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Thanks for the pic's. So how does it run now without that? Same as the 2009?
Now your ready for a clutch kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just bought a 2010 DS 250. Where is the throttle space at ?
Inside the carb there is a extra spacer that compresses the spring so the throttle will not open all the way. You just need to remove this, but make sure the needle stays in place as described in previous posts. Should only take five minutes. Steve
 
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