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So I bought a new Maverick earlier this year and loved the thing. Found a used outlander, 2011 with only 1200 miles. 800R XTP. Was assured the noise I was hearing was because it needed a valve adjustment, easy enough. Long story short, did valve adjustment, set to .006 exhaust and .004 intake. Noise never went away. I have a video on YouTube, I will post the link. I am being told by the guy who sold it to me that it is not piston slap because it runs great, not burning oil, starts right up and has good compression. I have researched the board thoroughly and I greatly appreciate you all! I have not taken the CVT cover off yet, all the stinkin inserts are stripped. And, the noise does not go away when machine is revved, which many say will happen when it is a primary clutch issue (definitely could be wrong here). But had it to a shop and the guy used the screwdriver to the ear trick and said he thought the rear valve was making noise... anyways, let me know if you have any thoughts. The video makes it sound WAY worse than it is in person, but maybe that is a good thing for the sake of troubleshooting. At the :25 point in the video I rev and the sound is TOO MUCH!

 

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Hmmm, that's a sound I haven't heard before so can't guarantee it but I'd start with the timing chains. Check if they're loose and maybe they're slapping around more as you give it throttle. Relatively in expensive fix that would cost you an afternoon of wrenching at the worst. Clutches and belts can make all sorts of noise so perhaps it's easier to pull the primary and see if that eliminates it as well. Better to start with the easy things and go from there..
 

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Hmmm, that's a sound I haven't heard before so can't guarantee it but I'd start with the timing chains. Check if they're loose and maybe they're slapping around more as you give it throttle. Relatively in expensive fix that would cost you an afternoon of wrenching at the worst. Clutches and belts can make all sorts of noise so perhaps it's easier to pull the primary and see if that eliminates it as well. Better to start with the easy things and go from there..
Thank you, will give this all a shot before diving in any deeper. Does it sound like it could be piston slap or does it sound different from that?
 

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Thank you, will give this all a shot before diving in any deeper. Does it sound like it could be piston slap or does it sound different from that?
I wouldn't say it sounds like piston slap and definitely not like rod bearings though anything is possible.. I've gotten lucky before where an aftermarket clutch was scraping the back plate and stuff like that so maybe/hopefully this is a simple fix as well. If the chain is stretching you need to update that ASAP without driving the machine as when it stretches too far it takes out the crank and rods usually which is big $$$
 

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Welcome to the site, Shack

Clutches and belts can make all sorts of noise so perhaps it's easier to pull the primary and see if that eliminates it as well.
I'm also leaning towards something in the belt box being the culprit.... that noise never quieted down with oil pressure, never changed with engine temperature or rpm, like say timing chains rattling around should. I'm also pretty skeptical that at that low a usage/mileage, that it's got any internal engine issues. Guess there's a first time for everything, but hopefully it's just a sliver of the belt or something, slapping the belt box

Did you re-tension the timing chain guides?
 
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Welcome to the site, Shack



I'm also leaning towards something in the belt box being the culprit.... that noise never quieted down with oil pressure, never changed with engine temperature or rpm, like say timing chains rattling around should. I'm also pretty skeptical that at that low a usage/mileage, that it's got any internal engine issues. Guess there's a first time for everything, but hopefully it's just a sliver of the belt or something, slapping the belt box

Did you re-tension the timing chain guides?
I did not retention the chains. I will do that.
 

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I do hear that front slug banging around , but that's not the LOUD noise you're hearing ( and if it was , there'd be more aluminum in your oil than the whole Reynolds factory ) .
I think the loud rap you're hearing is inside your primary , only one way to find out !
 

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The picture shows how much slack was in my rear chain. Very very sloppy. Front was tight. I tightened the rear, fired up and sound seems to be gone. I am cautiously optimistic at this point.
 

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yeah dont run that anymore until you find the cause, it could be the valve smacking the piston which will eventially bend the valve and blow the motor . I have heard similar noises when a tooth is off on a camshaft chain allowing cam timing off just a little bit. You should have NO chain slack on a cam chain if you have as much as shown it is wrong and you need to verify cam timing before running it more.
 

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yeah dont run that anymore until you find the cause, it could be the valve smacking the piston which will eventially bend the valve and blow the motor . I have heard similar noises when a tooth is off on a camshaft chain allowing cam timing off just a little bit. You should have NO chain slack on a cam chain if you have as much as shown it is wrong and you need to verify cam timing before running it more.
So, now that it has been retightened, the noise is gone, still don't ride it? I thought it was a possibility, over time that the tensioner could need a retighten? Excuse my ignorance, just learning about all of this and I really appreciate you all!
 

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I would always check the cam timing is correct any time one has been that loose because they can jump a tooth and not blow up until you rev them high enough,,,,,,not worth taking the chance as it should be easy to first verify the camshaft has not changed its timing.

I am not familiar with your particular machine is the cam chain manually tensioned or automatic tensioner?
meaning how did the chain get loose in the first place?
was the tensioner out for a valve adjust or top end rebuild?
 

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I would always check the cam timing is correct any time one has been that loose because they can jump a tooth and not blow up until you rev them high enough,,,,,,not worth taking the chance as it should be easy to first verify the camshaft has not changed its timing.

I am not familiar with your particular machine is the cam chain manually tensioned or automatic tensioner?
meaning how did the chain get loose in the first place?
was the tensioner out for a valve adjust or top end rebuild?
I understand your point about checking timing. The chain tensioner is automatic. I actually JUST bought it. It had a noise since I bought which I thought was valve adjustment, it wasn't. So, I am not sure if anything had been done beforehand or not. But, when I took the tensioning spring out, there was no twist to it at all. When I got to the end of the threads removing it, it actually wanted to suck back in, instead of springing out like normal. So, I reset the spring, twisted 3 times before starting the threads and then finished threading. It tightened it right up and took away the noise completely.
 

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2011 can am outlander cam chain tensioner - Bing video

found this is this what you are talking about? sounds like a poor tensioner design but I do not have it in my hands. Verify the cam timing and make sure the tensioner is tight as it should be if you find it gets loud again you might need a new tensioner or like he mentions in the video new chain sliders and chain. A manual adjuster might be better but that will require you to remember to tension it every so often.
 

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2011 can am outlander cam chain tensioner - Bing video

found this is this what you are talking about? sounds like a poor tensioner design but I do not have it in my hands. Verify the cam timing and make sure the tensioner is tight as it should be if you find it gets loud again you might need a new tensioner or like he mentions in the video new chain sliders and chain. A manual adjuster might be better but that will require you to remember to tension it every so often.
Thank you soo much for your input. It is greatly appreciated. All of ya'lls help is soo valuable.
 

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Tensioners need no preload if they're mechanically sound .
While you're 100% correct in that statement, I think the fine print should read something like "just due to the nature of the tensioner system, some wear, and occasional adjustment over time, is to be expected"

I think that's what the bike's original owner overlooked, or didn't know about, etc. I mean, there's a dozen different scenarios that would explain where the slack develops/comes from, in that timing chain tensioning system. I think Shack's good to ride for a long while now (y)
 
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