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Discussion Starter #1
I have just purchased a 2012 Outlander 800 XMR that has damage engine (I believe it was sunk). Does anyone know where I can buy a new/rebuilt engine and/or could I use a newer model engine? I am trying to get this machine together for my boys. Thanks in advance. Located near Charlotte, NC.

jcam
 

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Welcome to the site.

I'd otherwise suggest MrRpm for a rebuild of your existing engine, but recent forum members experiences prevent me, hopefully others will chime in with better recommendations.

Is it the Gen1 bike? Or Gen2?

That '12 year model was the breaking point for the 800XMR's between the Gens. If it's a Gen2, you should find more bikes out there, to perhaps grab an engine out of.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your response. How can I determine if this machine is a Gen 1 or 2? IS it in the VIN or badging?
 

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So the slanted rectangular single headlights, gotcha

That may limit your "used/part-out" engine options, as age and wear/tear start to become a factor, but most of those Gen1 engines were practically identical, one thing that comes to mind is the 800r motor above the '09 model year, with the more aggressive cams, would be the one you'd have.

Something else that just occurred to me, your bike has the factory power steering, doesn't it. The stator out of say a non-ps renegade 800 would be weaker/different....
 

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So the slanted rectangular single headlights, gotcha

That may limit your "used/part-out" engine options, as age and wear/tear start to become a factor, but most of those Gen1 engines were practically identical, one thing that comes to mind is the 800r motor above the '09 model year, with the more aggressive cams, would be the one you'd have.

Something else that just occurred to me, your bike has the factory power steering, doesn't it. The stator out of say a non-ps renegade 800 would be weaker/different....
Yes, it does have PS. I am told it was sunk and now does not run. Would this require a complete rebuild? If so, OK. If not, are there other things that could have been effected with the plunge? I am concerned that replacing individual parts piece by piece will get very costly. The purchase was to help a friend out, so if it never runs. It was the right thing to do. If I can getting running, my boys will benefit. I am not afraid of a project, but I also do not want to have the most expensive 2012 800 on the planet. Thank you again for your input.
 

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Well....... deep subject, that.....

If you're mechanically inclined, you can do the work. The actual engine internal components aren't even "that" outrageously priced, in my opinion. Topend/jug kits, and crank kits, will cover probably 90% of what's been damaged by the submersion, depending.... spend some time searching this site/youtube, for info on rebuilds.

And again, theoretically, the rest of the machine was designed to be "weather-resistant", so your gearbox, diffs, etc, shouldn't have been bothered by swamping, assuming they weren't run with nasty muddy sandy water in 'em. Simple flushes and refills should address those drivetrain components. The rest of the bike, barring age/weathering, should also be somewhat resilient, tho you may find say the ECM with water in it, maybe the PS unit itself, but those components can typically be found without too much $$ outlay. Clutches are mechanical in nature, cleaning 'em and replacing the belt and one-way (not very $$, again) should address those.

I guess it kinda boils down to how much you're into it for. I don't want to be "upside down" on my playtoys, those bikes, depending on condition and location, move anywhere from $3500-5500+, so if you're way under that, I'd say go for it. But if the numbers start to get outta hand, might wanna rethink it, like you said, lol
 
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Got it. Thanks. I am reasonably mechanically inclined and have a neighbor who spent years as a motorcycle mechanic. I do believe with the information you provided above and with his help. We can get her on the trails once again. I will post up some photos once the machine gets delivered to my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the machine in my garage finally and have slushed the engine. When I started to turn the motor over, it spun slowly. I pulled the plugs and it spun a bit quicker. I checked and the starter rely/solenoid has 12.8 volts on the battery side and only 6.8-7.0 volts on the starter silence the start button is pressed. Is the SR/solenoid suppose to have the same voltage 12.8 voltage on each side, once engaged? I need to understand what the voltage should be on the starter side of the SR/solenoid to determine if the SR is bad or if the starter is drawing it down?

Thank you in advance.

Jamie
 

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Sounds to me like the starter went bad. Turn over the engine by rotating the clutch with the spark plugs out. If it rolls fairly easy, have someone plug the spark plug holes with a finger to check compression. If air pushes their finger out and rolls pretty easy, I would get a new starter, put it all together, fire it up and ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds to me like the starter went bad. Turn over the engine by rotating the clutch with the spark plugs out. If it rolls fairly easy, have someone plug the spark plug holes with a finger to check compression. If air pushes their finger out and rolls pretty easy, I would get a new starter, put it all together, fire it up and ride it.
Thank you for your quick response. I pulled the plugs and tried to turn over the motor by rotating the clutch by hand. Granted this happened with the starter in place. But, I was not able to budge the clutch in either direction. Based on your comment, I feel like I should have been able to rotate the clutch. With that said, it might not be the starter having trouble turning the engine, it might be the engine, it self, that cannot be turned. Please let me know if my assumptions are off base? I am not sure if starters can seize, which could cause the engine to not spin freely or not. But, I certainly have more than a voltage issue here.

Jamie
 

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I've never heard of a starter seizing in the "engage" position, which would prevent you from manually rolling the motor over via the primary.

I have no reason to think anything other than a full engine teardown/rebuild is in store. Take pics! :p

files.brptuning.ru - /Bombardier/Manuals/ATV/
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I've never heard of a starter seizing in the "engage" position, which would prevent you from manually rolling the motor over via the primary.

I have no reason to think anything other than a full engine teardown/rebuild is in store. Take pics! :p

files.brptuning.ru - /Bombardier/Manuals/ATV/
Thank you for the link to the shop manual. I suspected the starter was not the issue and that the motor was going to require a teardown. Any chance you can answer the earlier question about the voltage on each side of the starter rely/solenoid? This one has 12.8 volts on the battery side and 6.8-7.0 volts on the starter side. Is it possible that the starter is drawing the voltage down trying to turn the motor? Chances are I will replace the starter rely and the starter when the motor is being worked on. is there anything else that should be replaced while I have the machine torn down, any wear items that are often overlooked until it is too late?

Thanks again.

Jamie
 

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When you tried to rotate the engine were you in neutral? When you take the belt off, try rotating both the clutches, do either of them turn? Remember neutral and plugs out.
 

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Sounds like a complete rebuild to me. Starter proven not the issue. Rust from moisture is a real PITA.
 

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When you tried to rotate the engine were you in neutral? When you take the belt off, try rotating both the clutches, do either of them turn? Remember neutral and plugs out.
Thanks for the reply. I tried to rotate the engine with the belt off and the plugs removed. It would not budge. The previous owner let it sit too long after it sank. I suspected I would be doing a rebuild when I bought it. Not the end of the world. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like a complete rebuild to me. Starter proven not the issue. Rust from moisture is a real PITA.
Agreed. I expect to see a lot of rust when the motor is torn down. The starter will likely get replaced as a matter of maintenance with the motor is being built.
 
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