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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought used for $8300. My buddies is a rocket ship compared to this. I can tell it was swamped. Cleaned it all up. So far put new spark plugs in and removed the spark arrestor “hat was not plugged” next step is clutch inspection and belt. It doesn’t slip and takes off good but only hits 50ish and takes awhile. The only key they gave me was the black key and display shows “performance key”. Please any help before I spend too much at a dealer.
 

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2015 Outlander XMR 650
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Welcome to the site, you've got a lot to digest, there. It sounds like you've got more of a power generation issue, than a power delivery issue. Motor's not making the power it should

Does it rev clean in neutral/park? Have you checked compression/leak-down? Fuel pressure? Any codes or CE light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can check compression tonight. What should it be at? I have no idea how I would check fuel pressure. I’m about sick to my stomach right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to the site, you've got a lot to digest, there. It sounds like you've got more of a power generation issue, than a power delivery issue. Motor's not making the power it should

Does it rev clean in neutral/park? Have you checked compression/leak-down? Fuel pressure? Any codes or CE light?
 

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2015 Outlander XMR 650
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You'd want to see compression numbers somewhere in the mid-100's, certainly nothing below 100psi. Higher than 160-ish might mean carbon deposits/buildup.

Fuel pressure should be ~51psi. Rent an EFI system pressure test kit from your local auto parts store and T it into the fuel pump discharge line leading to the injectors.

You're going to have to get good at working on these things in a hurry, I'm afraid, or you're going to be shelling out a lot more money on shop labor rates. The "upside", if there is one, is that hey if it was swamped and needs an engine rebuild, you can't exactly make things any worse by DIY and learning along the way.

files.brptuning.ru - /Bombardier/Manuals/ATV/ <------- all your manuals can be downloaded free from that site. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You'd want to see compression numbers somewhere in the 100's, certainly nothing below 100psi. Higher than 160-ish might mean carbon deposits/buildup.

Fuel pressure should be ~51psi. Rent an EFI system pressure test kit from your local auto parts store and T it into the fuel pump discharge line leading to the injectors.

You're going to have to get good at working on these things in a hurry, I'm afraid, or you're going to be shelling out a lot more money on shop labor rates. The "upside", if there is one, is that hey if it was swamped and needs an engine rebuild, you can't exactly make things any worse by DIY and learning along the way.

files.brptuning.ru - /Bombardier/Manuals/ATV/ <------- all your manuals can be downloaded free from that site. Good luck!
Ok. I’ll see what I can do. Since I have it apart and already bought a belt do ya think I should check that out as well?
 

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I mean, it couldn't hurt, but like I asked previously, does it appear to be a power generation issue? Or a power delivery issue?

If the motor's fine and making power and revving clean out, then yeah, the belt could be slipping and limiting your power to the ground and top speed.

But if the motor's hurt, the belt can't really help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I mean, it couldn't hurt, but like I asked previously, does it appear to be a power generation issue? Or a power delivery issue?

If the motor's fine and making power and revving clean out, then yeah, the belt could be slipping and limiting your power to the ground and top speed.

But if the motor's hurt, the belt can't really help you.
Compression good, fuel pressure good. New plugs look lean. Installed new belt even though current one was fine and clutch was spotless. Runs the same. Smh ugh
 
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