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2020 Outlander 450
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Discussion Starter #1
Well...there are already so few aftermarket options out there for the 450 that I decided to take matters into my own hands. I typically run HMF but still didn’t like the routing of the pipe for the 450. Prior to this, I was already running and cut down and heavily modified stock exhaust.

I really liked the dual exhaust with high center exit on a renegade that I saw recently and couldn’t get that out of my head. After overthinking how I could achieve this and going thru a hundred scenarios to stuff a muffler and dual 3.5” tips directly out the back, I came up with this...
I purchased a 6” body/ 5” diameter/ 2” inlet TotalFlow stainless steel muffler and got some 2” 304 .065 wall tubing from work. Then I bought two 3.5” stainless pipes 7” long and cut them down for the tips. I pie cut all of the radius bends except for the last one that connects to the extended stock diameter head pipe with a factory style connection.

I’m still waiting on a few parts to show up such as some Rinehart 3.5” end caps for a Harley and another SS
band clamp to replace the temporary one holding the y pipe on now, but it’s close. It exits where the factory taillight used to be. I also deleted the rear fender plastic and reflectors, I love how clean it looks without it on there. Still haven’t decided on a tail light location but probably just going to run a low profile LED. Have only rough cut the plastic so far and still have some smoothing to do on the stainless at the y pipe. Going to heat tape all the close plastic and there will be a heat shield that covers it in the trunk area with a double layer of fire blanket on the back side of it. The tips will be double wall as well with small removable and adjustable baffles in each tip.

I will update when the rest of the parts come in and try to get a sound clip, but IMO it’s loud, but not ridiculous loud, and has a way better tone. It’s about as loud as my TRX 450 with full HMF competition series using the race core currently. I have several things in the works to quickly and easily adjust the db’s though.

(I know the trunk sits on the tips now, the plastic was test cut and still needs to be finished and smoothed out)

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2015 Outlander XMR 650
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Bruh

That's some nice fab work (y)
 
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Nice fab work... but correct me if im wrong by using 2" you now have no back pressure so you will have a loss in performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Nice fab work... but correct me if im wrong by using 2" you now have no back pressure so you will have a loss in performance.
Ehhhh...I’ll see. I extended and offset the factory head pipe towards the rear and kept the factory 1 5/8” diameter. Made sure the offset allowed me to still Rotate and pull the head pipe out without removing a lot of plastic and such while maintaining one connection. The 2” starts at the rear axle and just sweeps up. With the turns along with the baffles I’ve made for the tips, I feel confident it will be good. I have a fuel programmer on it now and one afternoon this week I’m going to take it out and start making the adjustments and I’ll report back.

Added pic to show where 2” transitions to factory sized head pipe. If I have low end loss for some reason, I have an insert I’m making that are opposing direction perforated stainless cones the length of the muffler I’m going to test out. Also, feel optimistic about it since HMF and others run a 2 1/8” core in their slip on systems.

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Discussion Starter #6
For any curious few...I made some progress last night. I received my Rinehart end caps last night. Picked up a set in need of a sanding and paint job for $30 on eBay, which is great considering they were exactly what I needed and they cost $140+ new. Going to do some baffle work this weekend it’s still a little louder than I want, but I love the outcome. I have a game plan for the taillights that I think will really set it off as well. Just waiting on the parts to come in.
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Discussion Starter #7
I also plan to run a renegade rear bumper modified to tie into my rear rack. Obviously the loop that ties into the rear subframe will be cut off and replaced with the renegade bumper when the time comes.
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Nice fab work... but correct me if im wrong by using 2" you now have no back pressure so you will have a loss in performance.
I don't know how the "engine NEEDS back pressure" thing started. I cringe every time I hear that. Just one of many....
 
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OP- What do you have, or plan on doing for a fuel tuner?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Right now I’m running an attitude industries fuel optimizer. I’ve had it on there since the first week I got the can am. second day I owned this one I cut a couple baffles and 6” off the stock exhaust and immediately knew it leaned out even more. It’s still too loud for my liking, so I’m actually out in my shop now drinking some fancy man’s PBR and working on an additional baffle the full length of the muffler. Just going to test and adjust from there. I think this design is going to get me where I want to be as far as dbs and tone. Just have to weld the other end on and I’ll be irritating my neighbors.
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Well here’s an update...this is the unfinished baffle (only lacks the finishing work smoothing it out). It actually worked so well that it made it too quiet. I wasn’t expecting such a drastic dB difference. Good place to start though, now I’ll just open it up gradually until I’m happy with it.
 

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Well here’s an update...this is the unfinished baffle (only lacks the finishing work smoothing it out). It actually worked so well that it made it too quiet. I wasn’t expecting such a drastic dB difference. Good place to start though, now I’ll just open it up gradually until I’m happy with it.
Very cool. Nice fab skills!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very cool. Nice fab skills!
Thanks! It’s coming right along. I had baffles I made in each tip and before doing anything to the muffler baffle I just removed those. Sounds perfect (to me) now.
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Where do you get that mesh tubing? I want to do a custom muffler too, but I'm also afraid it might be too loud.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I work for a commercial hvac company so I get the material free. It wasn’t tubing though, I started with flat perforated sheet metal and rolled it myself. In one of the pics of the baffle you can see the flat sheet behind it. I did consider buying a perforated tube to save myself a little time, they sell them on eBay and Amazon for pretty cheap in short lengths.
 

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Thanks for the info!
 
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This thread is full of win (y)

Can't get much more personalized than that, OP, very nicely done 🍻
 
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I don't know how the "engine NEEDS back pressure" thing started. I cringe every time I hear that. Just one of many....
You n me rowing the same boat, Matt.

Only thing I can think is somehow somewhere along the way, someone confused/combined the beneficial scavenging affect that equal-length headers can give to a naturally aspirated internal combustion engine, and mentally superimposed the word "back pressure", which then took on a whole different meaning/direction.....

Any engine, cut to it's basics, is simply an air pump. Easier you get air in, easier you get air out, more efficient it is. Simple
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
One of the many common misconceptions surrounding anything with an engine. Regardless of his wording, obviously there is a variance in low end power and vice versa depending on the size and configuration of the system, along with too many variables to count. I left the stock head pipe the factory size and increased to 2" at the rear tire out of concern that I would lose some low end, so his question while not completely accurate, had some merit. Its difficult to find any info or proven methods for fuel, intake/exhaust, or any aspect of the 450 really to make more power and I get it. The mods I am doing aren't solely focused around building a ton of power, or I obviously should've gotten something larger. I just really enjoy having unique setups on all my toys and vehicles and enjoy the process while doing it (also have a disease where I cant have anything without modifying it doesn't matter what it is). I really like the 450s aesthetics and size, especially the more I customize it to my liking. I have been casually searching to see what I can find a complete salvage 1000 for and have ran the idea by my wife as well, so its going to happen sooner or later. I figure if I have an entire bike, I can do any necessary fab work to stuff that engine in there along with the supporting drivetrain to hold up, and have the ecu, harness, etc. necessary to work correctly. My buddy just bought a 2020 1000 XMR (flooded motor the first ride in a sandy creek), but I don't like how big and long the bike is. That motor in a modified 450 chassis and body, should be pretty nuts. This is my first utility 4wheeler and I love it so far, but I grew up on dirt bikes, racing 4 wheelers, and GSXR 1000s and Hayabusas, so I find myself wanting to modify the 450 to be a very "race" inspired utility, while also retaining its utility function and appeal, if that makes sense. Also been eye balling the stage 3 Elkas.
 
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