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Discussion Starter #1
I’m looking at purchasing a 850 or a 1000 xmr I have received prices for the 1000 all over the map from 12957 13800 14500 16100 all out the door price haven’t received any of the 850 quotes back yet except 1 at 12500... I’m mainly going to be riding mud and trails I like the 1000 for the option of another seat but is it to big and bulky will it just sink I haven’t seen many videos of the 1000 as I have the 850 looks like the 850 just water wheelies on a dime and rolls through the muck... maybe I’m wrong I’d like to go w the 1000 bc who wouldn’t want the power but if the 850 goes through the mud better and more reliable maybe that would be the best choice just looking for other opinions
 

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I would definitely recommend the 1000. I believe the atv is only 8 inches longer. If your going to be trail riding a longer wheel base provides a better ride. I cant say i know anyone who has bought a 1000 and wished they would have gone with the 850, but always the other way around for sure. Also you can watch some mud races and let me know how many 850's are winning over the 1000. At the end of the day which ever you do decided on you are going to be rocking a shit eating grin every time you ride . One has potential for buyers remorse, the other does not. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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I would definitely recommend the 1000. I believe the atv is only 8 inches longer. If your going to be trail riding a longer wheel base provides a better ride. I cant say i know anyone who has bought a 1000 and wished they would have gone with the 850, but always the other way around for sure. Also you can watch some mud races and let me know how many 850's are winning over the 1000. At the end of the day which ever you do decided on you are going to be rocking a shit eating grin every time you ride . One has potential for buyers remorse, the other does not. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks man definitely will finalizing my loan today since the dealer that I found won’t finance NC residents now just the choice 😂 I’m leaning toward the 1000 like you said I don’t want to wish for more 2 years down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
their are dealers some ware that have machines left?
Very few I’m going to drive 5hrs to get mine just put down my deposit for the 1000... it’s hard to get an opinion or feedback from a dealer 🙉 but I chose the 1000
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you like the short wheel base and want the 1000 you might look at the renegade 1000.
I thought about the Rene but wanted the option of the second seat so I can ride on the beach w my kid they are big sticklers around here about the second passenger
 

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Some days I want a 1000, but my 850 was such a good deal I couldn't turn it down. The 850 has plenty of power.

Guess it comes down to what you plan to do. If you're going to look at putting massive tires on, even with a clutch, and you still want to go hella fast, I'd recommend the 1000. My 850 with 30" heavy cryptids does very well (cv tech primary was a HUGE upgrade, worth every cent!) , but the 1000 would really turn them even better. My machine can wheelie and I have no complaints. I haven't checked the max speed on it even, to be honest.

Depends on the package you get too, i have the XT and the stock shocks were awful. So plan to upgrade if you go that route. XMR will have the nice shocks. XTP will have super awesome shocks.
 
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Some days I want a 1000, but my 850 was such a good deal I couldn't turn it down. The 850 has plenty of power.

Guess it comes down to what you plan to do. If you're going to look at putting massive tires on, even with a clutch, and you still want to go hella fast, I'd recommend the 1000. My 850 with 30" heavy cryptids does very well (cv tech primary was a HUGE upgrade, worth every cent!) , but the 1000 would really turn them even better. My machine can wheelie and I have no complaints. I haven't checked the max speed on it even, to be honest.

Depends on the package you get too, i have the XT and the stock shocks were awful. So plan to upgrade if you go that route. XMR will have the nice shocks. XTP will have super awesome shocks.
Exactly what I was looking for thanks man 👍🏻 I planned either the 850 xmr or the 1000xmr mostly trails mud and beach riding I was mainly worried about length on the trails but there are sxs that make it just didn’t know if and when I’m riding in some deep holes if I would wish for the smaller lighter bike
 

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The weight I don’t believe is a whole lot, in difference. Again comes down to what you plan. My plans changed and I wasn’t about to sell my 850, so now it’s an XMR 850 basically. Wish I had the bigger gearbox though.

Make sure to keep up on maintenance. Seriously. This can am has awesome power, but with that comes great responsibility, in the form of maintenance. Grease often, check fluids, check joints and axels.

My biggest complaint on BRP is their back lash tolerances on their rear diffs. I guess the xmr rear prop shafts have phasing issues too. These combined will either make the diff take on water or grenade. Mine wore the pinion seal out and took water on. I will rebuild it but wanted something bulletproof.

I now have a properly shimmed rear diff from mud n wheels.

I’ve learned a lot here and feel it necessary to share what I know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The weight I don’t believe is a whole lot, in difference. Again comes down to what you plan. My plans changed and I wasn’t about to sell my 850, so now it’s an XMR 850 basically. Wish I had the bigger gearbox though.

Make sure to keep up on maintenance. Seriously. This can am has awesome power, but with that comes great responsibility, in the form of maintenance. Grease often, check fluids, check joints and axels.

My biggest complaint on BRP is their back lash tolerances on their rear diffs. I guess the xmr rear prop shafts have phasing issues too. These combined will either make the diff take on water or grenade. Mine wore the pinion seal out and took water on. I will rebuild it but wanted something bulletproof.

I now have a properly shimmed rear diff from mud n wheels.

I’ve learned a lot here and feel it necessary to share what I know.


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Well it’s now a done deal bike is paid for outlander xmr 1000 go next Saturday to pick her up 😁... Is there a thread on “proper” maintenance and schedule? I know to grease everything looks like there’s 11 fittings? Check fluids ect I did get the extra protection from brp just Incase I get a lemon like I did w the first seadoo I had 🙄... are there any other tips tricks and suggestions for making her shine and run like a bat out of hell for many years to come? Any certain areas I should pay close attention to while washing her down after a day in the mud? I’m stoked August 1st can’t come soon enough
 

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Congrats! Wow I'm shocked you found one, they bout rare as hens teeth lately.

Plenty of good "break-in" info floating around out there, take it easy on the belt and maybe bike in general for the first say 10 hrs. Then drain and change all the fluids, check the valves, etc.

I try to pull mine up the truck ramps a little, to help the pressure washer get under it easier. Just make sure to wash out the cv boots/wheel bearings areas real good, don't want mud building up in there. Pop the seat off, yknow, side panels, let ya get into that frame/engine/gearbox area a lot better.

SC1 does a great job making the plastics slicker, really helps with cleanup after. Can't wait for pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Congrats! Wow I'm shocked you found one, they bout rare as hens teeth lately.

Plenty of good "break-in" info floating around out there, take it easy on the belt and maybe bike in general for the first say 10 hrs. Then drain and change all the fluids, check the valves, etc.

I try to pull mine up the truck ramps a little, to help the pressure washer get under it easier. Just make sure to wash out the cv boots/wheel bearings areas real good, don't want mud building up in there. Pop the seat off, yknow, side panels, let ya get into that frame/engine/gearbox area a lot better.

SC1 does a great job making the plastics slicker, really helps with cleanup after. Can't wait for pics!
It wasn’t easy I’m going 5-1/2 hours to pick her up in west va there were/are a couple others around my area but for a couple k more. I’d have to drive atleast 3 hrs to the closest one what’s another 2 hrs for 2k lol. I’m in NC if anyone is wondering there were 2 shops on the west side of the state that had them (3 left) and a couple places in VA that had some... will post some pictures as soon as I get her it’s the black and silver one too 😁
 

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Awesome man!

Make sure to do the first maintenance on time. Doing the oil and gearbox requires taking the right hand side footwell off.


Biggest things:

Check vent lines, especially the gearbox vent, mine melted. I sleeve my vent lines with 2000° proof sleeves. I switched from vents to bellows on front and rear diff. Keep an eye on the seals on diffs, gearbox and where the front shaft goes into the gearbox. Also if you end up doing any seals in the rear, pull the drive shaft and check it’s phasing.

Upgrades: if you want to do anything i suggest a cv tech primary. Worth the money big time. A flash can help keep the machine running cooler as well.

Enjoy the machine, they are monsters!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Awesome man!

Make sure to do the first maintenance on time. Doing the oil and gearbox requires taking the right hand side footwell off.


things:

Check vent lines, especially the gearbox vent, mine melted. I sleeve my vent lines with 2000° proof sleeves. I switched from vents to bellows on front and rear diff. Keep an eye on the seals on diffs, gearbox and where the front shaft goes into the gearbox. Also if you end up doing any seals in the rear, pull the drive shaft and check it’s phasing.

Upgrades: if you want to do anything i suggest a cv tech primary. Worth the money big time. A flash can help keep the machine running cooler as well.

Enjoy the machine, they are monsters!


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I have heard a lot about the cv tech primary I’m definitely going to look into doing that ASAP definitely before I go riding for long periods in any mud...any suggestions on where to pick one up at? Should I just hunt around on eBay or do something like griffin performance where they build it out? Or any other name brands? I haven’t really searched through the threads yet but will do so in the coming days
 

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CV Tech or death IMO.

Here's the trick: get your tires first. The clutch should be built off the size of tire you run.

I ordered mine from CANAMPARTSGUY.com. Jared is local to me, only about 40 mins away. SUPER awesome guy. Knows his stuff. Order it through him with your size tire, it will come set up and ready to install. Also DO NOT go cheap on the primary puller. Just get the puller from EPI or from CANAMPARTSGUY. If you cheap out, you will break it off in the hole like many have and be up SH!T creek without a paddle.

I'd suggest sleeving your gear box vent line as well. Here is a link: Heatshield Products Hot Rod Sleeves 204011

I'd suggest sliding that one ASAP. Use WD40 to get it to slide on, it's a tight fit. 3/8" sleeve. I sleeved my fuel vent line, water pump weep line, and gear box. My diffs are bellows so I didn't have to worry about that. You can leave your vents for your diffs if you want, I opted to swap them out.

So to sum up what I'd do in order:

-sleeve vent lines as stated above (swap bellows for diffs if you choose to)
-replace stock brake pads with stintered ones from racedriven.com, stock pads are organic bs and wear out REALLY fast.
-tires/wheel set up
-cv tech primary built off of above tire specs
-exhaust if you chose to
-ecu flash (monster FI is who I went with)
(Ive of course done other things too... happy to go over those, some will argue that some are uncessary, but I have logic to a few of them. Sucks a brand new expensive machine needs some alterations IMO)

Ride it!!
 

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Awesome man!

Make sure to do the first maintenance on time. Doing the oil and gearbox requires taking the right hand side footwell off.


Biggest things:

Check vent lines, especially the gearbox vent, mine melted. I sleeve my vent lines with 2000° proof sleeves. I switched from vents to bellows on front and rear diff. Keep an eye on the seals on diffs, gearbox and where the front shaft goes into the gearbox. Also if you end up doing any seals in the rear, pull the drive shaft and check it’s phasing.

Upgrades: if you want to do anything i suggest a cv tech primary. Worth the money big time. A flash can help keep the machine running cooler as well.

Enjoy the machine, they are monsters!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Forgive my ignorance but what is this phasing you speak of? I have a 1000 on order.
 

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Driveshaft phasing, so basically the driveshaft is straight and not twisted. Either by too much power, or in this case, BRP not making them straight! Lots of the extended driveshafts are having this problem.

Rob is good on youtube:

Basically if you set the driveshaft on a flat surface, one yolk doesn't line up completely with the other (it will rock a bit). Not all of them are this way, but I've seen alot of video's and comments on it.

BRP doesn't care about their customers IMO. My diff wasn't shimmed correctly from the factory and now it's in a box in my basement. The pinion is wobble wobble, took on water due to that (not to be confused with the driveshaft issue which thankfully I didn't have. Mine isn't an XMR either though.)

Look at me sounding like a veteran here... suppose I am. Got my machine with 488 miles and now have 2685 in 2 years. I've done a lot and fixed quite a bit...
 
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