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22 Outlander Max XTP 850 Bent Steering Handlebar misalignment

1403 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Freewill
I hit something at 50 KPH with LF tire only causing the handlebars to jerk violently Left, as my body slammed the Left handlebar causing a violent opposing Right steer force. The result was mangled Left A arm and tierod. I replaced those and now my handlebars were misaligned heavy Right while travelling straight. The misalignment was 7" at the tip of the handlebar (14" difference between the 2 handlebar tips).
In the accident there was a heavy twisting force to the Steering Column, DPS unit shaft and the Pitman Arm. The steering column roughly measured OK. I replaced the PITMAN ARM ($90) and that corrected half of it. I then replaced the DPS UNIT ($2000) and that fixed the rest of the misalignment. Note: the DPS unit is not repairable; thank you to these gear heads who prove it!
MEASURING TWIST
< PITMAN ARM: I wasnt able to do that until I bought a new one and setup a jig by threading a long bolt into the DPS unit housing in the vice and compared them.
< DPS UNIT: I used the pitman arm and a level and a straight edge. Put the pitman arm in the vice. Marked the blind splines with yellow paint. Put the strait edge across the blind spline. You can carefully feel when it touches both sides of the blind spline. Adjust the pitman arm in the vice until one of the splines showed level. Then check the other spline and it should be level as well.
< STEERING COLUMN: Remove the pinch bolt from the lower spline. Find a long rod to go in the hole. Put the handlebars straight. The long rod should be at 90 degrees to the centerline of the machine. Its a rough measurement but it worked. (Mine was OK).
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Wow. You are certainly the local DPS repair expert now. Thanks for the post.
 
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· Regular Joe
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I then replaced the DPS UNIT ($2000) and that fixed the rest of the misalignment
I can't say for certain, but I'm not sure that was 100% necessary. Did you try to have the existing DPS motor re-zeroed at the dealer? Or any Indy with the BUDS software
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can't say for certain, but I'm not sure that was 100% necessary. Did you try to have the existing DPS motor re-zeroed at the dealer? Or any Indy with the BUDS software
Well. . . it was absolutely necessary. I thought the DPS shaft material was very high quality spring steel bc the shaft flexes under load which tells the system how much torque to assist the rider with. I tried not changing the DPS unit bc it was $2000 but then I had to lengthen 1 tierod by 3 turns and shorten the other one. The result of that was short turning radius one side and long the other.
I asked the dealer if the pitman arm being off center would affect BUDS doing a recenter, and he would not guarantee it. So I decided to do the proper fix! haha. . . it's only money!
 

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Gotta ask...what did you hit and what did it feel like?

(This coming from a guy with no DPS, but who will have a bike with it in the next month.)
 

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Super glad it wasn't worse. Thanks for the lesson on "sand dynamics".
 
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