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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I took my machine that is not built for rock crawling rock crawling again and well I grenaded the diff again lol. Anyways does anyone have any experience with the halo 30 lockers? Or any other diffs for that matter, I have a ride coming up in two weeks and need this thing back together pronto
 

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Well considering the lift and BFT I would expect that. Halo Billet full diff is your future imop. I worry with a 30" tire lol.
 

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Try the smartlok diff swap. Ive had 0 issues since installing one two years ago. I only run 34's abd 4" portals but its a way better setup IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Try the smartlok diff swap. Ive had 0 issues since installing one two years ago. I only run 34's abd 4" portals but its a way better setup IMHO.
I was running the billet super atv locker and billet halo diff case for the other half of the diff. So of course neither of those parts broke. I just destroyed the factory spider gears and pinion. And it’s not the first time. I think it’s just time I went with the halo 30 so I won’t have these issues anymore
 
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What axles are you running? How much gear reduction?
 

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If I was going to do rock crawling, I would install portals for the gear reduction. Less stress on the diff.
 

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I would definitely not go smart lok. It is not a true locker and you would be replacing clutch packs all the time.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What axles are you running? How much gear reduction?
Y’all’s 2.0s and 45% reduction. Never broken one of y’all’s axles besides the front right lol. But it’s always the same piece that breaks on it and you just can’t help it with can am on that front right.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I was going to do rock crawling, I would install portals for the gear reduction. Less stress on the diff.
Yup way ahead of ya lol I’m built for the mud with 30in of ground clearance my friend. Rocks are not friendly to bikes like mine but I figured eh why not
 
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Y’all’s 2.0s and 45% reduction. Never broken one of y’all’s axles besides the front right lol. But it’s always the same piece that breaks on it and you just can’t help it with can am on that front right.
LoL! That ol' front right axle tip! 🤣 Sounds like you've got it all buttoned up. Maybe its time to go with those 8" 60% portals? 🤷‍♂️🤣
 
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2011 Can Am Outlander 650 XTP; 2014 Can Am Renegade 1000 Xxc
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Guys bust diffs up here in the mud and skeg all the time. I haven’t heard of a single person breaking their mudnwheels diffs after they’ve upgraded to them. They’re highly recommended by everyone that run serious machines that I’ve talked to. Could try contacting them and asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Guys bust diffs up here in the mud and skeg all the time. I haven’t heard of a single person breaking their mudnwheels diffs after they’ve upgraded to them. They’re highly recommended by everyone that run serious machines that I’ve talked to. Could try contacting them and asking.
I have a halo on order but I’ll give them a call. I have a ride this next weekend and the halos are on back order so if the mud and wheels can over night one somehow then I may go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
LoL! That ol' front right axle tip! 🤣 Sounds like you've got it all buttoned up. Maybe its time to go with those 8" 60% portals? 🤷‍♂️🤣
Nope not for me I break to much stuff as it is lol. I sit too high for my liking as is. I ordered some Elkas a few weeks ago to try and soften up the ride and lower it down a little as well so we shall see😂
 
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On a side note.. When removing front diff. Passenger side opening is instructed BUT it doesnt say to spin it 3/4 so pinion faces driver side otherwise it wont fit through opening. I learned last night. Frustrating. Also I dont know if limited model and coolant hose is part of issue with me? Riveted brake line bracket doesnt help either! Installing pin locker now from supetatv. Any tips???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’ve pulled my diff out a lot more then I should have lol. I have a tcr front steering rack so it’s like 4 times the size of factory. So I find it easiest to pull my winch out and loosen the front bumper up and pull it from the front. You shouldn’t have any issues with the super atv locker though. It’s the same size as factory
 

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Yes I thought about that while I was trying to remove as an option. Diff installed. Today I will tackle wiring switch and finish a arm/axles. Overall it wasnt that bad. Directions are pretty easy follow with diff assembly. Superatv looks to be quality parts. Only thing I didnt like were the springs on the pin lock plate thingy. Seems like a weak link? Filled with Lucas, shimmed properly and hoping that tiny axle spline doesnt give me issues!
 

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Yes I thought about that while I was trying to remove as an option. Diff installed. Today I will tackle wiring switch and finish a arm/axles. Overall it wasnt that bad. Directions are pretty easy follow with diff assembly. Superatv looks to be quality parts. Only thing I didnt like were the springs on the pin lock plate thingy. Seems like a weak link? Filled with Lucas, shimmed properly and hoping that tiny axle spline doesnt give me issues!
If it is an issue just grind the tops of the splines of the axle off that way the snap ring still holds it in but the pressure isn't all on just that small part if the axle.

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Are u serious canam? Grinding? What benefit comes from making it weaker??
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^ yup I will not be doing that lol. I enjoy paying $50 for another axle when they break cause super atv warranties them lol
 

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^ yup I will not be doing that lol. I enjoy paying $50 for another axle when they break cause super atv warranties them lol
True but I think it would be worth a shot. I've never done it cause I've never had the issue but all my stuff is basically stock.I have seen guys do it and it fixed the issue. If they didn't break you wouldn't have to change them out.

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