Some do some dont....I am currently using an hmf opti, but its gonna be a pciii for too long with custom tune.

 

I've had my 08 650 with stealth snorks and hmf utility for over 1000 miles now, no tuner and no problems as far as I can see. Like said above, some do some dont. I guess it's a piece of mind thing.

 

Almost all bikes I ride with(many...lol) run slip ons snorkels and no tuners, have never seen nor heard of any serious issues. Your machine will tell you if it's not happy, alot of snapping backifiring and general all around crappy running, I run a quiet core on mine and it purrs

 

You wont have any problem causing damage,i dont know these bikes but rule of thumb with tuning youre only going to cause damage to a engine running it to lean (to much air) with a snorkel fitted you will be going the other way (not enough air) so to rich.
In my opinion these slip on cans dont do s**t if you have a snorkel,unless you are just after the sound.
Im also not that good with fuel injection,but back to the old school to get performance you need lots of air in (high flow filter) lots of fuel and get the gas out asap (normally meaning full exaust system depending how good the manufactures exhaust is)
Fuel injection calibrates stuff fuel/air ratio and thats where i get confused .Give me a carb any day of the week

im sure you are ok,but a easy way to check is take out your spark plugs and check there a good colour,im sure you can find a guide if you google it if you dont know what colour they should be.Burnt brown is waht your looking for,black and your to rich (my guess is they might be going toward black or there good with the burnt brown) white youre to lean ie to much air flow,that where you can do damage but im sure they wont be like that....

Confused? im pretty sure i am

 

A good tune will help any bike. If it was mine and I paid that much for the machine & mods I would atleast get a power commander. That is just me though. I have only tuned one 2011 so far this year. Not many 11's around here yet, but from what another tuner told me they are pretty lean from the factory. Worse than the 2009's were. Again though, the only 2011 model I have done so far was an XMR with a full Ron Woods exhaust... and it had to have a lot of fuel.

 

I would like to buy a PC III to get the full benefits of the mods, but with no Dyno around my parts, I would only be guessing at the tuning.

 

Where do you live at? You can find a good map for it. You don't have to have a Dyno to tune it.

 

I'm in NW Ontario, Canada. All we have up here is sticks, bush and allot of swamp. lol.. Are you talking about a downloaded map from P.C.?

 

They do not make a PC3 or PC 5 for a 2010 or 2011 650. I tried to buy one and talked with them. They might have one later this summer but seems doubtful. I am trying to decide what to do as I have added a slip on and snorkels and want to make sure the air fuel mix is correct.

 

The 10's and 11's run alot leaner than the old machines hence the added HP. Adding a slip on without adding more fuel will eventually burn down the motor.

 

i have a 2010 650 and added hmf pip and factory xmr snorks would it make it lean or what and right now it back fires quite a bit and would the backfire cause damage, should i do the avle adjustment more or does it doo nothing, im going to go to the thing and check its plugs.. thanks in advance

 

whoah,
the backfire should be your first clue
it is way out of tune, and needs it asap, you can and will do valve damage

I agree with bootlegger, but I am a little more extreme, in the older bikes, like lets just say grizzly 660, would you snorkle it and replace the exhaust on it without re jetting the carb work?
heck no, it would run like poo, the fuel injected machines do a decent job of compensation in the fuel maps to keep it running, but thats it, just running, not running right
tuning the machine does not require a dyno, it does require a laptop and some type of air fuel gauge hooked to a o2 sensor

I stand 100% by the fact that any fuel injected machine with altered intake air and altered back pressure needs a tuner and a tune to run well
as usual I will take all the guys that will say, I have a full lte exhaust and 3 inch snorkles on mine, 4000 miles and no problems
there are exceptions to every rule, I am not an exception, if 1% of people break a trailing arm on hard pack trails, I will break my trailing arm on hard pack trails

the alternative to doing this is a valve job and posibly broken motor parts, last one I fixed was rear cylinder, when the valves burned it finally broke the chain guide from the misplaced compression, bent all the valves, and had to be broken all the way down to install around 550 dollars worth of parts, plus machine work on the valves

 

ive only have the hmf for like 10-15hrs and is a hmf tunner easy to do, im going to get 1 when i have to do the service in a week and how hard is it to tune, and is their any how-to on this, im only 15 and dont know to much on electronics in a atv, thanks

 

imop the hmf tuner is junk, it does not allow for enough adjustment
the power commander 3 or 5 is my choice part
easy to use and program
if you dont have any tuning experience which Im assuming you dont, then start reading
the decisions you make now will determine whether it is a great experience or one that you throw money at and never get it running correctly
there are plenty of guys that will be willing to send you their tunes, and you can load them on your power commander, but that tune is generic at best, each machine runs different at different throttle positions and different rpm ranges
I can send you 40 or 50 tunes, but the chances of them working perfect for you are next to none
purchasing a wideband commander is your next investment, or find someone who has one and will do it for you
I can go on and on, but really doing some research will help you with the understanding that you probably have some serious lean spots that need attention, without the proper tools they are not even posible to find, much less fix

 

my dad used to be a mechanic and he has any tool i could imagine, and i just opened up the spark plug and checked it i have tiny good news and some bad news, my spark plg is the correct color perfect bown with little wear markings and the last time i rode it and parked it in the garage was when it was backfiring alot,

but the bad news is the spark plug was lose when i first put my finger on it befor taking it apart and when i took it out the cyl essb. on the back it had no top peice which regulates the spark im assuming, could that cause the backfiring like part of it or all of it, and what about the metal tip like im talking about the one which is on the top of the plug, should i fish for it or whould it have gone to the oil pan or went out a vavle somehow?, or should i takke apark the whole cylinder head and look for it?

 

Remember, there is no PC3 or Pc5 for the 10 and 11 outty 650 unless they released one in the last two weeks

 

use the old pc3, it works fine
i have a 2006 pc3 on my 2009
they wont tell you that part, but you need to tune it as the stock maps for the new bikes are not very good