I'm sure I've seen a YouTube Video, I have the inferno heater but hade the dealer install. It's a tight fit. It also works very well.

 

I saw the same YouTube vid. Had dealer install the kit a few months ago just like he had it. I figure it’s better to have the ability if needed to point more air at the windshield and side glass. I haven’t used it yet as it hasn’t been cold enough yet when I’ve used the machine.

 

Please make a video or at least give feedback on the process. I’d like to do the same, and ditch the 2 center vents and move them outboard like that other video.

 

my kit shows to be delivered Saturday so I will look at all the parts and see what I'm getting into. I don't have a good way to video but I'll try and take some pictures of areas that are unclear to me right now. might help someone later.

anyone that has already done this feel free to chime in before next week when I get started on this.

with this kit there are 6 vents and 4 heater outlets so 2 vents get 1/2 the heat and 4 get the other half. I'm debating on which 2 should get priority. the biggest issue I currently have is the windshield fogging up so part of me wants to give the two defrost vents direct vents then split the other 4. another thought would be to give the bottom vents full power and split the defrost and 2 behind the cup holder since they will help with defrost.

any thoughts on which way to plumb the vent hoses.

 

Hasn’t been cold enough to need heat much yet, but in my case, I closed the foot vents completely. Without doing so the air coming from the defrost and upper vents isn’t much. When the foot vents are closed, you get a lot of air from the uppers.

If I was going to do it again, I probably would just buy the cheaper inferno kit, only install the upper round vents in the corners like the YouTube video referenced shows and the defroster vents.

I have can am hard half doors and the off road soft uppers and all I’m really concerned with is keeping windows defrosted while plowing. I have not tested it yet as it’s still pretty warm.

 

So far I’ve pulled all the panels off and walked through the instructions a few times as well as rewatch a few videos. Tonight I plan to wash the inside of the defender where I pulled the covers off so I don’t have to deal with dirt getting inside a cooling hose and also cut the plastic where it needs it. The rest of the week in the evenings I’ll work a couple hours at a time and see how it goes.

 

 

Digging around on the inferno website I see they sell a bypass valve. I assume this would replace the “Y” from the hot side going to the heater. Would this make the heater get hot quicker? I I also installed a shut off valve for summer would it cause any issues? Why wouldn’t this come with the “Premium “ kit?
Should I order this bypass valve or just go with what I have?

 

Where did you order your kit from?

I ordered direct from inferno and the valve came with it.

 

I ordered from everything canal off-road simply because inferno had a long lead time and if I don’t install in the next two weeks it would be February before I had time to mess with it.
This is what I ordered.

Reading on the inferno I now see they say this now,

• NEW Pre-thermostat plumbing gives this kit quicker and more consistent heat! Don’t have to pay $100 for a thermostat bypass valve like you do with our competitor’s kits.

 

During Covid times they were not included. So any old stock from any aftermarket seller will be the old kits. I think you can contact inferno direct and they will send you a shutoff for free though. Worth a shot. I read it somewhere and that was my decision making to go with direct.

I think I bought it back in September and I had it in two days.

 

It came with the shutoff ball valve. What I was talking about was the bypass valve. I’ll look the defender plumbing over tonight and verify where the thermostat is located.

 

Ok, yea I didn’t get one of those in my kit either.

 

Yep, mine are split the same way. Like I said though, with the foot vents open, airflow out the defroster and upper side vents is very low. I just closed the foot vents and it blows hard with the others.

 

Thanks do you know roughly where your “Y” is on both sides, I thought about putting it a few inches from the narrow vents.

 

I made it to step 13 tonight plus I got the vents behind the cup holders installed. The bottom two and the windshield vents are easy. The cup holder ones were a pain in the a** to install. It took probably a 1.5 hours to trim them to fit correctly underneath. Still think it will be worth the headache vs losing the top storage tray.

tomorrow night will be attaching ducting to the vents and loosely installing the heater box.

hopefully Tuesday or Wednesday will be attaching the coolant lines and then just test it out.

just thought about it tonight, I’ll need to get more coolant, is this something I should just pick up from the dealership? I haven’t looked to see what the spec is.

 

Yea the tech that installed mine said it was a complete pita to do the top vents. As for coolant, as long as you pinch the lines when you cut them, you shouldn’t need much coolant. But yes, I’d go to the dealer to get coolant.

 

I added a shut off valve on mine so I could use it as a fan when its not cold out. Haven't had any problems

 

Took about 3 hours tonight to install all of the ductwork windshield vents and the blower motor. I think I’m about 8-9 hours in now and still haven’t touched a coolant line yet. Not sure I would do this again.

the instructions really lack on where the hoses connected to the heater core. I installed both floor vent hoses to the driver side due to the fact the coolant hoses will come in the passenger side. I think it will be fine but I’ll find out when I fully install the bottom storage again.

Tomorrow going to work on the plumbing side. Hopefully I can finish it up soon.

 

On the coolant, yeah probably best to just get some from the dealer. Nothing wrong with putting some other brand in but if you wanted to do that you should completly drain and flush the coolant system and ensure that the coolant that you were changing to is compatable with alum. engines, (mixing coolants sometimes do not react well) (5) Coolant Flush | Page 2 | Can-Am ATV Forum (can-amforum.com) Take a look at #26 in this post.

 

Man, glad I paid the dealer. I think they charged me three hours.

 

Id pay 3hrs in a heartbeat. Might even pay 3 hours to finish it!

I’m not a professional mechanic by any means but work on a lot of stuff from small engines to excavators. I can normally come close to book time the first time and can beat book time if I ever do it again. This is one of those projects where I don’t think I could shave a ton of time if I did it again. Cutting the plastic to me is just a slow process to not hack it up. They leave zero room to spare on installing the vent lines

 

Yea it seems easy, but very time consuming. My time to me is becoming much more important as I get older. So when my dealer offered to do the install, I took them up on it!

Personally I think they were nuts to offer, and I was surprised. 😂

 

There's a YT video of a guy installing the OEM heater. He flat out said he'd never do it again and would just buy the cab model next time and call it good! lol

It looks labor intensive for sure!

 

There's a YT video of a guy installing the OEM heater. He flat out said he'd never do it again and would just buy the cab model next time and call it good! lol

It looks labor intensive for sure!

Funny thing is the mechanics at my dealer said he would have preferred to install the OEM heater instead of the inferno. Which going by BRP’s instructions, I can’t for the life of me understand his feeling there.

$2300 installed oem
$250 for inferno kit (install only) I bought the kit from inferno direct for like $450.

Seemed like a no brainer to me. 😁

 

I got all of the plumbing done tonight and was able to test it. I am getting heat out of the vents and didn’t find any leaks. Went for a quick 1mile drive to purge the air and I believe it’s all out. I lost about 1qt between leaks and filling the hoses. I’ll recheck tomorrow when it cools off.

i am going to have to drop the blower back down. I missed in the instructions where the bottom two vents are to be installed on the front two blower holes. This is what I originally thought but looking at it I didn’t think there would be room on the passenger side. Like every thing else they crammed it into place. That shouldn’t take too long. Then Ill run it a little more before I install the panels to verify no leaks.

one other thing I plan to do while I have the center cover off is to install another switch and run power to a nema plug in the bed so I can control my sprayer from the front and not have to run wires to the cigarette lighter. I’ve been putting this off and now is a good time to do this.

if anyone has any questions or would like a picture now is the time to ask. Thanks for all the help. I’ll post back when I have it buttoned up.

 

Sounds good! Post up some pics when you get a chance.

 

got home this afternoon and the coolant hose going into the elbow just before the heater core had leaked some coolant today, I guess I didn't snug it up good the first time around. I went back over all of the hose clamps and that is the only one that moved.

I dropped the heater core back down and switched around the duct vent arrangement and put it back in and now the front hoses look correct. cranked it up and let it run about 15 min, enough to get up to 180 degrees and haven't had any leaks as it's cooled back down.

I think I'll run it around for 5-10 miles then put all of the covers back together.

I enjoy putting stuff like this together but this has to rank around a 3/10 on the fun scale. I don't believe I'll offer to put one on for someone else.


On a different note, I also installed the Nema connector in the bed tonight however I'm getting -12.6v at the bed plug. all the wiring is correct at the switch, the only place there can be an issue is where the bed plug, plugs into the harness behind the right rear fender. I guess I'll have to pull it off and see whats going on there. I bought a kit to do this because I didn't feel like pushing all this wire through sheathing but I guess I should have just made my own. O well, I can always cut the plugs off and crimp and heat shrink together, that will last longer anyways.

I'll try and post some pictures over the next day or two to help some unfortunate sole that tries to also install a heater. thanks again for the help.

 

Found my issue with my bed nema plug install having reverse polarity. Apparently whoever was making the wiring harness worked off the wrong end of the cable to hook up the switch. You can see when I plug in the bed plug it goes red to black, black to red. It at the end of the day this isn’t horrible as now I’ll have a crimped and heat shrink connectors instead of the plug together inside the fender well.