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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I would create a how to guide for others wanting to add auxiliary lighting, etc to their ATVs with some pictures of my latest setup.

parts list;
1x 40A relay
1x 20A switch
4x 10A switch
assorted quick disconnect connectors for switch pins (blue + red)
eye lit connectors for battery connections
10 gauge wire (black + white)
16 gauge wire (black + white + red)
2x in-line fuse holders (one heavy gauge, one light gauge wires)
1x volt gauge


tools;
wire strippers
crimping tool
electrical tape
zip ties of decent length (4"-6")
philips screw driver (loosen battery terminals)
plastic rivet removal plyers (not needed but makes life easier)

**getting fancy tools;
soldering iron
lead solder (silver solder sucks...)
heat shrink tubing various sizes
heat gun


ATV shown; 2015 Outlander L 500 Max DPS

I created a setup with a master ON switch (used to switch on the relay to provide main power), and then separate switches for each device (driven by the switched power from the relay)

*all 12V+ power circuits are fused to mitigate the risk of electrical fires, the fuse will blow before any component or wire.
12V DC wire sizing chart;
http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Support Section/Solar Panel & Charge Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

you can tweak the wire layout to save wire, i have two connections to each battery post because of the kit i originally bought and the existing parts i had.. this will be a general guide to follow

*please note the devices you purchase could be sensitive to polarity on the pins and could damage the components if installed incorrectly

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Step 1;
-unhook your battery NEG cable, this is always a good practice when working on electrical components.
-remove all plastics from RH side of bike to allow access for wire routing and ease of access

Step 2;
DO NOT HOOK ANYTHING UP TO THE BATTERY! this is the LAST thing you do!

-start by running your wiring and laying out your relay and fuses to find solid mounting positions out of the way of moving parts

I mounted my fuses close to the battery (roughly 4in away, under the plastics but easily accessible) and the relay i zip tied under the seat plastic as well using an existing cut out to feed the zip tie

Step 3;
I ran my master switch wiring first for which I used 16AWG (red, black, white), this is a low current draw circuit which is only used to switch the relay ON and OFF and power my volt meter. This circuit is fused at 10A but all devices can handle 20+, wire lengths are approx. 5ft (battery up to handle bars)
to wire the voltmeter, I crimped a shorter wire into the switched 12V+ and NEG terminals of the switch to power the voltmeter ONLY when the switch is turned on so it does not stay on constantly draining the battery

Step 4;
after the relay is mounted, i ran my two main 12V+ (white) and NEG (black) wires for which I used 10AWG up to the handle bars. These are the the 12V+ switched power from the relay and a spliced connection from the NEG relay pin from which i will power all my devices.

Step 5;
I split off the two main 12V+ and NEG wires from the previous step into 4 separate 12V+ and NEG wires that will go to each individual switch for which I used 16AWG (these will be parallel circuits so the wiring will only need the handle the max current of each device, if you have a device rated at higher then 10A, then I would suggest using a higher gauge wire and a higher rated switch than I listed above)

Step 6;
so now our little auxiliary switches have 12V+ and NEG wiring, they can provide switched 12V+ power to our devices which then we only need to ground each device and we are almost done!
(in order to ground each device, i spliced into each auxiliary switches ground connector so all my device grounds will go back to the battery NEG, this will ensure I have solid ground connections for sensitive LED light devices)

Step 7;
NOW, ensure all your switches are in the OFF position and hook up your main 12V+ power wires to the battery ensure a solid connection that wont vibrate free (eye lit connectors are ideal for this)



========================================================

Please, if you have something to add or describe your setup please feel free to add your comments below, I'm hoping this will be a good source for others to learn to add auxiliary components to their ATVs and realize its not very difficult if you take proper precautions.

*PLEASE NOTE, MY SETUP IS OVERKILL for what it does, there are easier setups but I went for robust and safe.


Keep your stick on the ice,
OuttyL
 

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