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Best Snorkel Kit

8K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Chief... 
#1 ·
So lets hear em!
 
#4 ·
Just joined the forum. I have a 2020 HD8 Max Base and I ordered the highlifter kit. Its actually from the previous gen, but with some minor modifications I was able to get it to work.

I think the highlifter is better than factory because all 3 snorkels hide behind the rear headrests. This provides way better rear visibility than the factory one.
 
#5 ·
I've been looking at the snorkel kits and IMO the OEM are hands down the best because of one feature and that is the belt exhaust goes up as high as the intakes and then loops back down and dumps on the exhaust. The extreme heat that is generated down on the pipes need as much air flow as possible and that is why you see the normal setup having the belt exhaust going up a little and then looping back down on the exhaust.
 
#6 ·
The highlifter kit uses 2" pipe for routing. The issue with the defender is the narrow gap between the bed and cab. I would think the added length of the OEM belt exhaust routing all the way up and then back down would impede the air flow as much as going with 2" routed at half the length. Also if you take a larger diameter tube and narrow it at some point in the overall flow, then you are partially creating back pressure on the otherwise optimal flow.

It would be interesting to use a temp gun to measure the belt exhaust temps at the snorkel outlet.

From a personal preference I like the snorkels behind the headrest for increased rear visibility. With the MAX the rear view is already limited due to the length of the SXS.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Couldn't copy a picture of one, but here is a link that will show you what they look like. Snorkel Kit for Defender, Defender MAX
I have ordered a set for my ride, and I have reviewed the instructions for installing them, which require some riveted plastic strips to be removed and they will fit. I am not sure what the inside opening of the snorkels are, but looking at the back of my ride it looks like it will be very close to 2" after removing the plastic strips. As far as impeding the air flow, I don't believe it will impede much more than any snorkel that lengthens the snorkel.

But the like I said the main reason I think they will be better is because of the belt exhaust looping back down to the exhaust pipes. I had the Outlander 6x6 and installed the oem snorkel which did not loop back down and was warned by individual on this site that it may lead to an issue with heating, and sure enough it did, the bottom of the bed actually melted. Don't want that to happen again.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Bringing this back to life again. I'm looking at snorkels for my Defender (not for mud/water riding) but to possibly get the intakes higher up for cleaner air. I have 3 requirements. One, it fits with my rear windshield. Two, it fits with my oem gear rail and gun holders (which I can add spacers to the gun rail if needed). Three, it doesn't go so high in the middle of the machine that it interferes with my oem cargo light. I've primarily been looking at oem (which is the most expensive at about $570 from Partzilla). Looks like a nice setup, plus it has the loop that exists out onto the exhaust. I think this might be the only kit that I've seen that blows on the exhaust? Is this a big deal? I also like that this one hard mounts to the body. I "think" that it might fit with my rear windshield, but it looks like it might need some spacers for clearance away from window.

2nd kit I'm looking at is the Super ATV kit. Looks nice, cheaper than oem, and will work with my Super ATV rear windshield. I like that it hard mounts to the body.

3rd one I'm looking at is the SYA Warrior. Looks nice, cheaper than oem. I see that it has dovetails that connect the up-pipes together, but from what I understand this does not hard mount to the body. My understanding is that it zip ties to something if it needs a secure fit. I'm not really fond of this idea over a hard mount (but maybe if anybody has this kit they can clarify).

4th kit I've found is the High Lifter kit. I haven't found too much info on this yet, but again price is cheaper than oem, and looks okay. I haven't seen if this one hard mounts to the body. So no clue on this one. One member mentioned this one offers more visual clearance since they place them behind the head rests. While this can be a plus, my view is already limited with my gun rack.

If anybody has any of these kits, and can give any pros/cons of fitment, it would be appreciated.
 
#9 ·
To your question "that blows on the exhaust? Is this a big deal" actually I do believe it is an important feature, when I removed that feature on my Outlander, my heat problems went to the next level. With that being said, I don't know if you can install the OEM snorkel with the limiting factors that you mentioned. #1 the rear window, I purchase an aftermarket rear polycarbonate window that had a cut out on the bottom to allow installation of the OEM snorkel, I do know that it's possible to install one with a straight bottom (because my brother did) but it takes some finagling. #2 the gear rail and gun holders I think would be the biggest problem. After the snorkel comes above the bed it expands to between 3-1/2 to 4" of space from the rear window. I haven't seen the gear rail and gun holders installed, but if it goes straight up from the front of the bed, I don't believe they would work together. #3 the height, should be no problem, it only goes up the rear window about 2/3's of the way.
 
#10 ·
I watched this Super ATV video of their rear window install on an XMR. So I was thinking it is possible, but I guess requires spacers/standoffs.... . Some day I was hoping to possibly install the oem glass window. Does it work with the oem snorkels?

I know in the listing for the snorkels it says not for gear rail accessories, but I believe it would be an easy fix with my setup. I think I can easily add spacers/stondoffs to the gear rail to space the mount far enough away from the snorkels. Picture taken with the spots circled in red that I'm talking about.....
Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Bumper Machine
 
#11 · (Edited)
Looking at that gear rail assemble it looks like you could probably make it work, and from the picture it looks like your rear window has the cut out that I mentioned. One thing I didn't mention was when I installed mine that the attachment was suppose to be with a long screw, which I'm not a fan for, so I drilled the attachment point out and put a nut-sert in and then using some spacers I bolted the snorkel in.
As far as the glass oem rear window, unless it's available with the cut-out I don't think it would work. When I said that my brother's had a straight edge on his rear window and that he was able to mount his snorkel, it was by cutting a notch out on the bottom of his polycarbonate window.
 

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#12 · (Edited)
I like your nutsert idea. I'm not a fan of the stupid rivets either. I installed all of the add-on undercarriage panels to my DPS with the rivets, and I'm kicking myself now for not just going with the nutserts. Maybe one day if I'm really bored I'll drill them all out and add the nutserts....o_O So with your spacers between your back window and snorkels, I assume your bed opens/closes okay? How thick are those spacers?

That is a bummer about the glass window. I was thinking of upgrading to the oem glass window one day.
 
#13 ·
In total the spacers were probably 1-1/4" to 1-1/2, and yes the bed opens fine.

Funny you should mention the skid plates, I did the same thing (we fab'd our own side panels and riveted them on with large alum rivets, and when I inspected them after a couple rides there were a couple rivets missing and a couple that were loose. I took them off and drilled the frame holes out for nut-serts and then reinstalled them, then I decided to do the same with the OEM plates. After drilling the OEM rivets out, the holes in the plate were rather large (way larger then what they should have been for a rivet) and I had to add a 1" fender washer to adequately cover them. Anyway I drilled out all the frame holes and added the nut-serts and re-installed the plates with flanged button head socket screws.
Amazon.com: M6-1.0 x 20mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws Bolts, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Full Thread, Allen Socket Drive, 50 PCS : Industrial & Scientific I just finished that project a couple weeks ago, so time will tell if it was a good idea.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I've been doing some digging on one of the Defender Facebook forums, and came across these pictures. Looks like they just eliminated the two outer risers which brought the snorkels down a bit (more visual clearance) and they still hard mount to where the rivets are currently. Guessing this still doesn't work for glass window, as I figure those rivets mounts are covered up....

High Lifter kit bolts to the headrest in some way. So a little more work for those with a rear window to get it to mount up. Guess I'm still leaning towards OEM or SuperATV setup. The only thing I'm not liking about the SYA is there is no hard mount (bracket) to the body/frame to help keep it supported. Maybe others have figured a work around for this? I also don't understand why the SYA kit has a 4th snorkel into the duckbill port of the bottom of the air box (so essentially two input ports to the airbox). Why is that?
 

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#15 ·
I also don't understand why the SYA kit has a 4th snorkel into the duckbill port of the bottom of the air box (so essentially two input ports to the airbox). Why is that?
The only thing I can figure is they wanted to do away with that duck-bill port to avoid any possibility of water getting in. On the OEM snorkel kit they simply replaced the duck-bill with a solid plug.
 
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