Not sure if there is anything commercially available but there have been a couple of threads where guys have fabricated a system using the trailer hitch and a false extended floorbed that extends out past the end of the lowered tailgate. a support that attaches at the hitch receiver carries the weight of the rear end of the bike by supporting the extened floor. no more extra weight on the tailgate.

 

Tailgate EX Support

 

I run straps from my hitch to the tie downs on my box side. Lift the tailgate strap it tight. I have pics in my gallery if you want to take a look. I don't know how to post them here. I always do this works very well

 

My hitch was off in that pic so I went straight from the bumper. Had to replace my fuel pump and had to lift the box two bolts were under the hitch

 

LA Guard Dog is what a lot of people use.

 

 

Hey Sparky81...
Is this your rig?
Can you go into a little detail of what you have going on here?
I have a 2012 Tundra and am not interested in beating up my tail gate, this looks like it might be a good solution?
Thanks!

 

With the factory hitch bolts into the rear dif I wonder how easily they are broken after hitting some bad bumps or an accident with the guard dog system. No way I'd trust it. I'd rather have a broken tailgate than a broken dif, or neither and do what I did above. I've had close to 2k lbs on the extension I built so I know it can handle the atv no prob.

 

^^Not only that what if you rolled your truck? I could see that having a bad outcome with your quad thru someone's windshield

 

After seeing the vid I too am not thrilled with the guard dog. It does seem to hold it in over rough terrain but I wouldn't be good with it bouncing around so much like that in the back. When not on a trailer I strap it four ways and it's rock solid, and I don't soil my pants when the going gets rough

 

Its been around for years and is a very proven product, I know more than a few people here use it. Maybe some of them will chime in with more long term results. I personally use a trailer because of the other equipment and gear I carry with me.

 

Im glad I have an 8' bed after reading these posts & seeing pictures .
These must feel pretty goofy rolling down the road with 70/80 % of the cargo 's weight behind the rear axle .

 

Definitely doesn't feel worse than a trailer. The renegade isn't even close to payload capacity.
I usually carry my gear in the backseat of my crewmax quadcab or front sides of atv in bed.
Like said, what would happen in a rollover?
What would happen if atv hitch or mount failed?
I crisscross two straps over the rear frame and one through front bumper.

Macs tiedowns has a video of how good their straps are hanging a full size truck strapped to a trailer from a crane.
I'd like to see guard dog post a video like that or do their same video test with a can am.

 

People use what they have. And seeing as the front end is the heaviest part of the machine and the engine is almost centred over the axel I don't see how 80% of the weight is loaded behind the axel. My truck handles the load just fine

 

These machines are 50% weight on front and 50% on rear axle, so your quad is more behind the trucks axles than it is ahead of it, so 60-70% of the weight is behind the axle for sure.....Its not ideal, but with an ATV its managable.

If you are worried about the tailgate, then lay down some 2x10's and let them support some of the weight....

 

I Haul mine in the bed of my v6 Dakota with the rear wheels fully supported by the tailgate. Never had a problem and never worried about it.

 

Are you sure the rear tires will be on the tailgate. I have put my Renegade in my 2013 Silverado 5.5' bed and the tires are still on the very rear of the truck bed. I mean very rear of the bed. Center of the rear tires is maybe an inch into the bed so I would think that in a 6.5' bed you will be all the way in but may not be able to fully close and latch the tailgate.

 

Thanks Guys for all the feedback. I am not really to worried for short trips around but its the long haul from NY to La that I didn't want anything to happen. Only reason for not using a trailer is that its a one way trip and I need my trailer up north still


But thanks again

 

The tires sit right at the forward most part of the tailgate really, I have a Bakflip cover on the truck and also the brush guard that is on the renegade takes up that space... But I am thinking of taking the brush guard off for my trip because its going to get all modded up anyway.

 

I have an 03 1500 Silverado. I haul my outlander in the 6 1/2' bed with a full size tool box in front of it. I just make sure the gate hinges and straps are in great condition. I added an add a leaf for extra support but I have never had a problem.

 

You guys are a lot braver than I am. I've seen way too many of those flimsy cables break under less stress than the weight of an ATV. I won't even load my ATV on my tailgate let alone go down the road with it. I remove it, place the ramps on the bumper and load it, then put the tailgate back on.

We loaded a large gate valve on the tailgate of the work truck one time (2010 chevy half ton) and it folded the tailgate. Valve was only about 600 lbs.

Most cables on full size trucks have a safe working load of 800 pounds. So technically they are good for a combined 1600 lbs. (compact trucks have smaller cables) This is assuming the cables aren't frayed, pinched, or rusted. Kind of hard to do an inspection when they are covered in a protective sheath.

Now say you have a 650 pound machine, 200 pound rider for a total of 850 pounds. When the entire weight of the machine and rider is on the ramps and the tires are about to transition to the tailgate, how much weight is being placed on the tailgate? I imagine it is easily 2/3 or more of the total weight, which technically is still well within the means of the cables if they are in good condition. Now that the machine is loaded, say the rear tires are sitting in the center of the tailgate. So about half the weight or 325 pounds is now on the tailgate (more if the machine sets closer to the edge of the tailgate due to leverage on the cables).
1300 pounds seems like quite the safety factor and it is, except for the shock load you are placing on the cables going down the road at 70+mph. Under shock load, Lifting devices are only rated for 10% of their static load rating, meaning the cables on your tailgate that have a SWL (safe working load) of 1600 pounds are only good for 160 pounds under a shock load. So as you can see, there isn't as much of a safety margin as most think. I know a lot of people do it and get away with it, but there will be failures from time to time. Might not be a bad thing if you need a new tailgate anyway... :thumbsmilie:
Just make sure she's strapped down real good!

 

Those cables rust inside their plastic sheath and get weaker with age, so don't feel bad replacing them once and a while.

The worst part about hauling with the tailgate down is all the stone chips the gate can get if your tires throw stuff up.

 

Why not just sliding a 2 x 8 under both front and rear tires the full length. It will transfer some of the weight forward. It will work like a pad on soft ground. Simple and cheap

 

Good info guys !!

 

I wouldn't even worry about it...that little bit of weight won't hurt anything. I've had much more weight on my tundra's tailgate...just make sure you use some tie downs so it don't roll off the back.

 

if you are handy with wood working, you could use two 2x12 and cut around the wheel wells(without cutting all the way through the 2x12, only cutting about 8" into it so that it would still be connected by a 2x4 width), then form up and over the wheel wells with some other lumber, by doing that the weight would be distributed more evenly, and possibly give you more traction on the front tires to get up and over the wheel wells.