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You guys are a lot braver than I am. I've seen way too many of those flimsy cables break under less stress than the weight of an ATV. I won't even load my ATV on my tailgate let alone go down the road with it. I remove it, place the ramps on the bumper and load it, then put the tailgate back on.

We loaded a large gate valve on the tailgate of the work truck one time (2010 chevy half ton) and it folded the tailgate. Valve was only about 600 lbs.

Most cables on full size trucks have a safe working load of 800 pounds. So technically they are good for a combined 1600 lbs. (compact trucks have smaller cables) This is assuming the cables aren't frayed, pinched, or rusted. Kind of hard to do an inspection when they are covered in a protective sheath.

Now say you have a 650 pound machine, 200 pound rider for a total of 850 pounds. When the entire weight of the machine and rider is on the ramps and the tires are about to transition to the tailgate, how much weight is being placed on the tailgate? I imagine it is easily 2/3 or more of the total weight, which technically is still well within the means of the cables if they are in good condition. Now that the machine is loaded, say the rear tires are sitting in the center of the tailgate. So about half the weight or 325 pounds is now on the tailgate (more if the machine sets closer to the edge of the tailgate due to leverage on the cables).
1300 pounds seems like quite the safety factor and it is, except for the shock load you are placing on the cables going down the road at 70+mph. Under shock load, Lifting devices are only rated for 10% of their static load rating, meaning the cables on your tailgate that have a SWL (safe working load) of 1600 pounds are only good for 160 pounds under a shock load. So as you can see, there isn't as much of a safety margin as most think. I know a lot of people do it and get away with it, but there will be failures from time to time. Might not be a bad thing if you need a new tailgate anyway... :thumbsmilie:
Just make sure she's strapped down real good!
 
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Those cables rust inside their plastic sheath and get weaker with age, so don't feel bad replacing them once and a while.

The worst part about hauling with the tailgate down is all the stone chips the gate can get if your tires throw stuff up.
 
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Why not just sliding a 2 x 8 under both front and rear tires the full length. It will transfer some of the weight forward. It will work like a pad on soft ground. Simple and cheap
 
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I wouldn't even worry about it...that little bit of weight won't hurt anything. I've had much more weight on my tundra's tailgate...just make sure you use some tie downs so it don't roll off the back.
 
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if you are handy with wood working, you could use two 2x12 and cut around the wheel wells(without cutting all the way through the 2x12, only cutting about 8" into it so that it would still be connected by a 2x4 width), then form up and over the wheel wells with some other lumber, by doing that the weight would be distributed more evenly, and possibly give you more traction on the front tires to get up and over the wheel wells.
 
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Tail gates are not designed to carry load, and strapping down the bike will add even more pressure to the tail gate. A couple of 2x10's is cheap and easy. Also adds height so you can slide something under the bike for storage.
 
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Tundra is a full size truck wouldn't think the wood would need to be cut


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i have a guard dog and use straps on the front to keep the front from bouncing around on long rides. i usually pull the rear down a little too, to take some slack out of the suspension, and it takes the wiggle out of the hitch (i have the earlier version). i haven't been brave enough to tow a trailer with it yet though. but after seeing that video, maybe i'll try it. i like the fact that you can lock it. usually doesn't set up quite as fast as he does in the video though. i have a max so my machine still sits right up to the front of the bed and towards the front of the tailgate, so there isn't hardly any weight straining the tailgate straps.
 
Just cut a piece of plywood down so it slides into the bed and extends all the way to the end of the tailgate. It will distribute the weight better. Problem solved.
 
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In order for the whole weight distribution theory to work, the object has to be rigid enough to be able to support the machine on it's own. A sheet of plate steel for instance is rigid and would support the weight of an ATV many times over. Won't bow or flex under the weight either. Now imagine a sheet of plywood. Would you trust your ATV on a sheet of plywood? If it was thick enough it may support it, or not...either way it is going to bow immensely under the weight. What would happen if the tailgate strap(s) broke, would you trust your machine hanging out over the rear of your truck with only a sheet of plywood between it and the freeway at 70mph? Chances are it's going to be doing cartwheels down the road or worse yet land in someone's windshield.
I mean no offense to anyone in my disagreement, just don't want to see anyone losing their machine on the road or worse yet hurting someone else...
 
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I say just buy a trailer...If you spend 10000 to 15000 on a top level machine, I say spend a few hundred more on a trailer. I've had a friend loose a Honda Rincon out the back of his truck and it wouldn't have happened if he had used a trailer.......
 
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In order for the whole weight distribution theory to work, the object has to be rigid enough to be able to support the machine on it's own. A sheet of plate steel for instance is rigid and would support the weight of an ATV many times over. Won't bow or flex under the weight either. Now imagine a sheet of plywood. Would you trust your ATV on a sheet of plywood? If it was thick enough it may support it, or not...either way it is going to bow immensely under the weight. What would happen if the tailgate strap(s) broke, would you trust your machine hanging out over the rear of your truck with only a sheet of plywood between it and the freeway at 70mph? Chances are it's going to be doing cartwheels down the road or worse yet land in someone's windshield.
I mean no offense to anyone in my disagreement, just don't want to see anyone losing their machine on the road or worse yet hurting someone else...
3/4 inch plywood will easily handle it, and it's easy to slide in and out. Not looking for 100% distribution here, just to take a little strain off the tailgate. I did it for a little while, but once you can get a trailer, get it. We got a little 4x8 tilt trailer and it's so much better. Pull the pin, drive off. Drive on, put the pin in. No ramps or anything.
 

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I say just buy a trailer...If you spend 10000 to 15000 on a top level machine, I say spend a few hundred more on a trailer. I've had a friend loose a Honda Rincon out the back of his truck and it wouldn't have happened if he had used a trailer.......
Or rent one from Uhaul.
 
Tundra is a full size truck wouldn't think the wood would need to be cut


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you are correct sir, I was thinking Tacoma for some reason.
 
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Hey Sparky81...
Is this your rig?
Can you go into a little detail of what you have going on here?
I have a 2012 Tundra and am not interested in beating up my tail gate, this looks like it might be a good solution?
Thanks!
 
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I got a set of the DG tail gate supports and am really pleased with them. Before when I loaded my 1000xt I was always a little concerned with the weight on the tailgate when loading or unloading, but when loaded, I could shut the tail gate, so it was only a concern for a short period of time, but now that I have the 6x6, the rear tires stay on the tailgate while transporting, and there is additional weight when loading. To counter these two issues, I got the DG tail gate support and have no concerns now at all.
 
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"Best way to take weight off tailgate"

I can't believe it took 4 pages before someone said use a trailer! lol

Old thread, but I found that little fact funny. (Just keeping myself entertained)
 
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