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There are two simple test you can do
1)If it is blowing a fuse, unplug the two big plugs from the mpem. If the fuse dosent blow then the MPEM is the short and needs repair. If the fuse still blows the wiring harness has a short. Possibly the carb heater or shift position sensor.

2) if the fuse is not blowing and it dosent work.
Have good fuses and a good battery. Run a wire from the battery positive to fuse 5 the 20 amp fuse. If the dash lights when turned on the wiring harness has a bad splice on the big red wire. You need to find the splice and fix it.
Don't do this if the fuse is blowing as you may cause more damage.

Burl
Thanks Burl
The MPEM does appear to work, as the lights all work, the engine does run, and it does indeed drive.
The problem is, it doesn't shift. It is the semi automatic shift model, with the upshift/downshift button on the handlebar.
When I attempt to shift, the motor reduces rpm as it attempts to shift, but then nothing happens.
My trouble shooting has involved purchasing the MPEM jumper, running the diagnostic, which then indicated that amongst other things, the shift solenoid might be the culprit. The detailed fault states (-Short circuit to battery detected, and -Operating current on the downshift solenoid output has exceeded the overload threshold). Didn't really make sense, but I purchased a new one anyways. Through testing, we have positively determined that it is not the actual solenoid valve. Also through testing we were given the other codes as well, so we are now leaning toward a wiring issue. FYI, the codes are: 4) Downshift Solenoid, 7) Headlight Supply, 8) Accessory Supply, and 9) Reference Supply Output. In the expanded description of the codes, the common thread on the three other codes is short circuit to ground detected. Looking at the wiring diagram from the 2004 model, the wires are not common with these codes.

To be clear, do you know where the two Y splices you mentioned are physically located? I expect we will be taking the whole harness apart, but would be nice to have an idea where to center our search.

Thanks again for the help
 

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You have to unwrap the wiring harness. I cant tell where they are as it was many years ago I had one. If you run a wire to the shift solenoid will it shift when you try to . Either while riding or on blocks?
 

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PS
I am will to help talk anyone thru the traxter 500 electrical issues BUT. I don't fix any other MPEM problem then the MPEM failing after jumping it. Usually the 20A fuse will blow and nothing lights up.
 

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Hello. I am experiencing all of the above issues from 2001 XT owners. I had to," walk away", from it for a couple weeks and came back with some degree of enthusiasm that , hey, maybe it fixed itself ? Well, it hadn't , so I thought, what if the motor was seized ? Would that give the flashing led's and not starting? Makes sense, right ? So, I put power direct to the starter motor ; it spun nicely. Phew ! Then I disconnected the 2 wires going to the winch. Don't need them right now. I'll be ; it went to start mode, no flashing led's and the motor started ! Is this a solution, have I fixed it ? Stop, re-start- yeh! Third time - crap, back to flashing led's. So, to get back to this still being a problem ; yes it's now intermittent !
Time to get into the harness I guess.
 

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Hello. I am experiencing all of the above issues from 2001 XT owners. I had to," walk away", from it for a couple weeks and came back with some degree of enthusiasm that , hey, maybe it fixed itself ? Well, it hadn't , so I thought, what if the motor was seized ? Would that give the flashing led's and not starting? Makes sense, right ? So, I put power direct to the starter motor ; it spun nicely. Phew ! Then I disconnected the 2 wires going to the winch. Don't need them right now. I'll be ; it went to start mode, no flashing led's and the motor started ! Is this a solution, have I fixed it ? Stop, re-start- yeh! Third time - crap, back to flashing led's. So, to get back to this still being a problem ; yes it's now intermittent !
Time to get into the harness I guess.
I can sympathize .. but mine is not intermittent .. gonna dig into the harness tomorrow .. wish me luck
 

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You have to unwrap the wiring harness. I cant tell where they are as it was many years ago I had one. If you run a wire to the shift solenoid will it shift when you try to . Either while riding or on blocks?
I removed the shift solenoid block, and tried to shift while applying compressor air to the feed hole. It seemed to shift fine either up or down, that ... along with the other codes I am getting, is why I am going with the shift solenoid being fine, and it being a wiring issue. Digging into the harness tomorrow . wish me luck.
 

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I removed the shift solenoid block, and tried to shift while applying compressor air to the feed hole. It seemed to shift fine either up or down, that ... along with the other codes I am getting, is why I am going with the shift solenoid being fine, and it being a wiring issue. Digging into the harness tomorrow . wish me luck.
Dug into the harness. No issues that I could discover.
Then thought, I never did reset the codes.
Went through the reset procedure, started and drove it, and now no codes.
But still wont shift.
Removed the shift valve, applied compressor air to the feed hole, and tried shifting.
The valve did indeed move, shuttling air to each side.
Can easily move the shift cylinder using the emergency shift shaft.
Am thinking low oil pressure?
 

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Dug into the harness. No issues that I could discover.
Then thought, I never did reset the codes.
Went through the reset procedure, started and drove it, and now no codes.
But still wont shift.
Removed the shift valve, applied compressor air to the feed hole, and tried shifting.
The valve did indeed move, shuttling air to each side.
Can easily move the shift cylinder using the emergency shift shaft.
Am thinking low oil pressure?
Only if it's like the one I'm trying to revive.... :cautious:

I had 6 splices in my harness. 2 of them black grounds and were fine. 2 of the other 4 were completely rotted out. The Wht/Rd wire was the valve problem. Fixed that and cleaned and sealed the good ones. Thought I had it fixed, but nope. Solenoids work but nothing. Cleaned the valves, nothing. Took the valves off again and discovered them dry as a bone still. Made a clear plexiglass cover for the valve block so I could watch it. No oil, but bike is full. The plastic oil pump gear is suspect and next to get to.

I did the wire harness repair with it still mostly in the bike, but it wouldn't have been too much extra work to pull it all the way out.
102955

102956

102954
 
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