Sounds to me like a wire in the harness shorted or shifter position censor shorted. When it goes to show the gear it is in, the short is robbing power from the ECM. That would be my first guess.

 

I will unplug the shift sensor and only connect the neutral wire to the sensor with an alligator clamp and see if it’ll drive with it thinking it’s in neutral and then I’ll test the sensor, do an ohms test. Thanks for the ideas!

 

Little update, I unplug shift sensor and it defaults to L range on the dash even though it’s in neutral. While showing L with sensor unplugged it runs like **** and stalls ecu fried ? I plug sensor back in it shows neutral and runs perfect again.

 

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Man that is a good one..... you ruled out any actual mechanical issue by removing the belt, check.

I'd also think the ECM is ok, if it took a key program, check (any check engine lights/error codes on the cluster?) Does the cluster otherwise display RPM and hrs/mileage, performance key, sport/eco mode, etc?

I'm having a hard time connecting the dots between an electrical gear position indicator causing the engine to stumble and die, not gonna lie. Is there a sport low bypass harness in between the bike's harness and the gearbox position sensor?

 

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Man that is a good one..... you ruled out any actual mechanical issue by removing the belt, check.

I'd also think the ECM is ok, if it took a key program, check (any check engine lights/error codes on the cluster?) Does the cluster otherwise display RPM and hrs/mileage, performance key, sport/eco mode, etc?

I'm having a hard time connecting the dots between an electrical gear position indicator causing the engine to stumble and die, not gonna lie. Is there a sport low bypass harness in between the bike's harness and the gearbox position sensor?

I did every possible step I could before posting here gauge works exactly how it should and zero codes displayed and none stored I have no idea how different gears can make the engine stall/stumble I’m baffled I’ve worked on canams for years never seen this. I can check for the sport/low bypass harness but it even does this in park, it won’t even start in park just rolls over no fire.

 

I wonder if there's some janky aftermarket anti-theft system buried on the bike somewhere

 

I’m going to dig in a little deeper tonight anything is possible it’s very much a stock machine I haven’t seen any added wiring or harnesses anywhere.

 

I have no idea how different gears can make the engine stall/stumble I’m baffled I’ve worked on canams for years never seen this. I can check for the sport/low bypass harness but it even does this in park, it won’t even start in park just rolls over no fire.

Just for the sake of saying it, you know the bike won't start in gear, but Park and Neutral are identical as far as starting/running. I wonder if you've got an intermittent signal to the ECM causing it to think it's trying to...... no, never mind, that would just be the starter signal. Once it's running you ought to be able to row through the gears without affecting the ECM. I'm curious, tho, as to you saying it will roll over but no fire (spark?) in park. It wouldn't even attempt to roll over unless P or N are shown on the cluster.

 

If I spray fuel into the intake while rolling it over in park it’ll fire on that then quit it’s disabling the fuel pump it seems. It shows which gear it’s in properly but will only run 100% in neutral. I can start it in neutral and quickly shift to park and it quits instantly, start it again in neutral shift to high range and it’ll stay running but goes to limp mode and try’s to quit, going to put power directly to the fuel pump and try starting it in park by bypassing everything. Fuel pressure test passes when machine is in neutral, park no pressure and high range maybe 5-10 psi very very weird I don’t understand how changing gears is effecting this.

 

Again, might be telling you what you already know, but DESS issues will prevent the injectors from being pulsed. That sounds like what's happening when you shoot some ether down the throat in park.

Fuel pressure test passes when machine is in neutral, park no pressure and high range maybe 5-10 psi very very weird I don’t understand how changing gears is effecting this.

Fuel pump is simply powered via ignition switch/circuit, it's not security-electrically tied into the bike otherwise (DESS/ECM) You should be seeing 51 psi at all times. That bike has that non-serviceable filter on top of the pump discharge, remember.

I can't tie any gear changes into anything running electrical, on that machine. Is the shift cable and anchor bracketry all nice and tight? It's not like the ATV's, in other words, where maybe perhaps in some crazy instance, all those moving linkages could chafe a loose wire or something.

 

I will check injector pulse when shifting it into gear and see if it is cutting the signal, shift linkage is all tight no wires wore threw anywhere that’s what I checked first but you can disconnect the shift cable shift it manually and still stalls.

 

With the belt removed, the engine shouldn't care what the gearbox is doing.... man that's a head-scratcher

 

Agreed! Haha I will update tonight what I find!

 

Update! Machine fixed I tore entire thing to pieces and found someone had changed the ECU to a maverick ecu removed it to inspect found bent pin on the ecu fixed the pin reinstalled everything and good to go.

 

Great news!

 

I wanted to make sure I posted my fix as I have searched forums for years and found so so many that end with the OP not posting what he found or fixed haha.

 

nice that you posted the fix i hate dead ended forums where the solution has never been posted.. I was just going to post about the ecu as we had the same issue at work on a truck years ago.. Ordered new ecu and when the tech went to change it noticed the bent pin..