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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the subject states, worth the headache pulling secondary for cleaning/servicing? Been reading threads on this thing coming loose after the fact and don’t want the thing shooting through the case..

Primary is pulled, bearing greased. However it’s hard to clean the secondary even when fully spread to get a scratch brite pad in there.

I’ve looked at the service manual it’s easy enough to take off but I can’t believe that bolt is only 15 ft-lbs of torque..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
If you want upgrade secondary clutch bolt here is what you need:
View attachment 104815
That is official brp upgrade if some one has loose bolt.. We have put this kit in one 570 only one ;)
View attachment 104816
Not necessarily want to upgrade the bolt, lol. But was more curious if this was a user reinstallation error or what.

Another item I noticed with cover off - while in park and engine running. The secondary spins while in Park with belt installed of course. Once again finding contradictory answers online that it’s normal and is not. Well, which is it.. haha
 

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If the secondary is spinning at idle, sounds like the primary isn't opening up to allow the belt to stop. Primary shouldn't be touching the belt and turning it unless you are giving it some throttle. Any chance idle is too high or primary put together incorrectly? If engine is off can you turn the primary without affecting the belt?
 

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Nobody Special
2020 Outlander XMR 1000r Max
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The belt will spin while in park or neutral because of static resistance in the one way bearing and belt touching one of the sides of the clutch. If the one way bearing has very thick grease, you will get more resistance. This is normal. Take a stick and use it to stop the secondary while in park or neutral. You will find it stops easy and has very little resistance. This is what allows it to go into gear and gives you that famous clunk sound when the secondary shaft locks to the gears in the gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the secondary is spinning at idle, sounds like the primary isn't opening up to allow the belt to stop. Primary shouldn't be touching the belt and turning it unless you are giving it some throttle. Any chance idle is too high or primary put together incorrectly? If engine is off can you turn the primary without affecting the belt?
Well mind you this was also first start up, after the machine sat for 10 days OFF and I have some free time to try and get it serviced a bit before the next set of rides. So maybe the IDLE was a bit higher than usual. the machine typically idles anywhere between 1300-1450..

The belt will spin while in park or neutral because of static resistance in the one way bearing and belt touching one of the sides of the clutch. If the one way bearing has very thick grease, you will get more resistance. This is normal. Take a stick and use it to stop the secondary while in park or neutral. You will find it stops easy and has very little resistance. This is what allows it to go into gear and gives you that famous clunk sound when the secondary shaft locks to the gears in the gearbox.
The one way has fresh grease, SuperLube as I found on here meets or exceeds the OEM Isoflex.

Maybe there is too much grease inside the one bearings? they turn nice and smooth, but should they free spin when turned even with grease inside of them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bump.. anyone? trying to put this back together. Are the bearings supposed spin freely once inside the housing one way housing?

Because they spin freely if I remove the seals and have bearings in my hand..
 

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Nobody Special
2020 Outlander XMR 1000r Max
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Bump.. anyone? trying to put this back together. Are the bearings supposed spin freely once inside the housing one way housing?

Because they spin freely if I remove the seals and have bearings in my hand..
Only supposed to spin freely in one direction.
 

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The bearings (actual bearings) themselves? I think you miss read my question

The one way bearing with housing and little springs and pins - yes should spin in one way only. I am asking about the two thin sealed bearings
The bearings themselves will spin in either direction. Just put a set in a couple months ago and they are just a 'regular' bearing. As you said, once you put it all together is when it will turn in one direction and lock in the other.
And I didn't take the secondary off, just gave it as good a rubbing as I could with a pad with the belt off. Not saying I shouldn't have, just what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lol, you guys aren’t understanding the question.

The bearings themselves, once installed/pressed in the clutch housing (the steel collar). How easily should they spin? Should they spin freely and just go without stopping? Should there be some resistance but smooth?

Because, if I have the bare bearing in my hand, pull the seals and spin it it’s going to spin kind of endlessly. Once I install the seals the bearing stops doing that and some friction/resistance is introduced.
 

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Okey dokey. If it spins freely in your hand, it would appear that there is pretty well no grease in the bearing. I have cleaned bearings before and with no grease they will do that, although not supposed to be good for them. With grease in them and the seals in I think a bearing in good condition and greased will rotate smoothly but with resistance. Shouldn't free spin at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okey dokey. If it spins freely in your hand, it would appear that there is pretty well no grease in the bearing. I have cleaned bearings before and with no grease they will do that, although not supposed to be good for them. With grease in them and the seals in I think a bearing in good condition and greased will rotate smoothly but with resistance. Shouldn't free spin at all.
Kinda what I thought boss. Thanks! Put it all back together.
 
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