Sounds like eco mode or key is programmed for eco or rental mode. Need sport or performance mode to go really fast.

 

Key is read as performance key by the DSS.

 

Welcome to the site

So your cluster does scroll the "performance key" message at start-up? Does yours have the sport/economy mode switch like my Mav does? I think it should...

And so this speed limiter is 100% repetitive and predictable? Trying to narrow it down to an actual electrical/setting issue, as opposed to something randomly mechanical

 

Yea dess displays performance key on display. I’ve tried both sport mode and normal with no difference. It’s absolutely repeatable on pavement within a mph or two of 60mph and I believe around 7200rpm. It will drop down to 55-57 and throttle will return even though accelerator is fully depressed throughout.

I’m going to check the service manual tonight about replacing the cps to see if the ecm needs to recalibrate after swapping the cps as I’ve been busy at work.I doubt replacing the crank position sensor should require a recalibration but I’m going to look because I did replace the sensor.

 

Yeah no recalibration needed to replace the CPS.

I mean, 7200rpm isn't exactly idle.... when's the last time you did any clutch/belt maintenance? I'm not aware of any speed-limiters on these things, any chance your bike came from a street-legal country?

I vaguely remember some of those commanders had issues with their electronic throttle pedal, but you should see a code if it wasn't reading correctly.

 

At 7,200 rpm, I am doing 80mph.

 

Yeah this is a commander not a maverick and the ecm has a hard shutdown at 75mph. I have not removed the clutches yet because it is really odd that it just cuts out and picks back up. It seems to be a fuel or spark problem or the ecm not liking the readings from the sensors and retarding the timing and closing the throttle body. I have not tested since cleaning the map sensor so I’m hopeful that could be the issue. I’m also considering removing the tank and 4wd switch so I can remove the speed sensor and clean that as well before doing another test ride. Difficult to get a test ride in where I live as I have to trailer it to a more rural area for the road space to get to full throttle. So I’m going to try and do everything I can before I test again. I also purchased a fuel injector pulse meter and cleaning kit to be sure there isn’t a partial blockage in one of the injectors. I made this post hoping someone here had a similar issue and could save me a lot of unnecessary work. The dealer keeps telling me it can’t be an electronic component because it would throw a code. I find that hard to believe because electronic components can degrade before they completely fail causing a code.

 

If it'll pull past 7200 in low, that should clear you of a power generation problem. Top speed at that point then should become a power delivery problem. As far as you know, the belt grip and clutches are where you'd expect?

I'm still unaware of anything electronically that could be speed-limiting it, but that repetitive an issue sure points towards something of that nature

 

If it'll pull past 7200 in low, that should clear you of a power generation problem. Top speed at that point then should become a power delivery problem. As far as you know, the belt grip and clutches are where you'd expect?

I'm still unaware of anything electronically that could be speed-limiting it, but that repetitive an issue sure points towards something of that nature

I have just visually inspected the belt and clutches. I did not disassemble them yet because it’s not slipping or smelling of burnt belt it simply acts as if the injector firing quits and the throttle body closes then comes back. There is wear on the sliding sheave of the primary where the govenoor cups ride.

 

I know from first hand experience that not all electronic components will throw a code. My CPS censor was acting up intermittently and never a code. Dealer couldn't figure it out so I purchased BUDS and diagnosed it myself.
I could run my outty all day with no issue. Next day no spark. Sit for couple days then run normal all day again.
So when I had no spark, I triggered coils in BUDS2 and had spark. No spark when cranking engine. Told me ecm to spark plugs was good. Ecm picking up when to fire was not working. Changed CPS and problem ended.
Point is the CPS can do stupid things that make no sense. Possible your CPS is acting stupid at higher rpm. Also I do recall issues with dirty speed censor tip causing issues as mentioned in a previous post.

 

Yeah I’m hoping it’s something simple because it never did this before the head gaskets and cps was changed. I still have the old cps and it just had outer insulation cover melted a bit so it was changed. I’m also planning on removing the speed sensor for cleaning before I give it another go. Head gaskets were changed because previous owner had overheating issues and said it was fixed before I got it. He had the radiator, thermostat and water pump seal replaced but head gaskets were bad too. I replaced all the coolant line fittings with stainless or aluminum fittings (except that damn Y fitting over the heads because I can’t find a reasonably priced replacement)added a dash temp gauge replaced head gaskets and cps. Since then I have had this issue. This was an oem speed sensor too not some Amazon knock off.

 

What year of commander yah working on here?

 

2013

 

Have you changed the tire size?

 

Not since I bought it. It has 27s on it currently.

 

Get a GPS app on your phone and verify the speed?

 

If it'll pull past 7200 in low, that should clear you of a power generation problem. Top speed at that point then should become a power delivery problem. As far as you know, the belt grip and clutches are where you'd expect?

I'm still unaware of anything electronically that could be speed-limiting it, but that repetitive an issue sure points towards something of that nature

I paid a grand for my BUDS2. I have Megatech license. I can do much more than any dealer can.

That’s more than I’m willing to spend on something I just got that’s as old as it is, but that would be awesome to have. I have the license and software for my truck and it’s really nice. Being this commander is used and older and my first Can Am I can’t justify it at this point. Like I stated earlier this was a trade and I really wasn’t in the market but being an old gear head it’s become a project more than anything now. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually but the Buds would help considerably for troubleshooting this issue. There is only so much information you can get with a Fluke meter. Honestly if I get it running properly and it turns out to be a good time I’d probably just sell it and buy something new. I have friends that have been bugging me to get a sbs for awhile and this was a cheap introduction. They all
have sport models and I’ve rode with them and it’s night and day from the commander I bought used and their machines. Suspension and power is far beyond anything this thing is capable of.

 

Glad yah figured it out and actually posted the fix for the issue.

 

Glad you got the issue solved. $90 for a CPS? Someone on bad drugs! I recently purchased one for $25 new. That CPS can act strange and unusual. I learned when something stupid is happening and it makes no sense, check the CPS.

 

Glad yah figured it out and actually posted the fix for the issue.

Thanks to everyone who replied and gave suggestions especially Freewill and

Glad you got the issue solved. $90 for a CPS? Someone on bad drugs! I recently purchased one for $25 new. That CPS can act strange and unusual. I learned when something stupid is happening and it makes no sense, check the CPS.
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Glad you got the issue solved. $90 for a CPS? Someone on bad drugs! I recently purchased one for $25 new. That CPS can act strange and unusual. I learned when something stupid is happening and it makes no sense, check the CPS.

Thanks for your insight. I have the receipt and if I knew how to share a picture on here I would show you. The charge for the new cps was actually $96.99! The real cost being faulty was much higher because of my time and listening to the dealer who said it couldn’t be anything electrical or it would code. They claimed it was likely a weak fuel pump and I changed that as well because I didn’t have a fuel pressure gauge so I just changed it to rule that out.

 

Your dealer is not out of line at 90$ for that cps. That is what a BRP cps goes for and for sensors I only go oe. They cost a bit more but 100% of the time outlast the china aftermarket crap.

 

Your dealer is not out of line at 90$ for that cps. That is what a BRP cps goes for and for sensors I only go oe. They cost a bit more but 100% of the time outlast the china aftermarket crap.