[volitan]

Word to the wise, make sure you get something hard. If it's too soft, it will bend and you might have a hard time taking it out, possibly damaging the threads on the engine portion of it.

or
The tip breaks and falls in the engine.
It has to be pointy/tapered if I recall to lock in the crankshaft.

it's fine just to locate the TDC but torquing the fly wheel has a lot of torque.

 

[volitan]

My shop manual shows where, when and how to use this tool. I would expect the tip to be a close fit in the 'hole' of the crankshaft. Logically it only needs to be finger tight and I would certainly avoid putting any radial torque on the crankshaft.
Using this tool to 'hold' the crankshaft is an option but I agree that it is not the preferred or most practical way to accomplish that for normal servicing of the CVT.

The manual tells you to install the tool then remove the nut for the rotor, then reverse order to reinstall. Unless you can use a tool to lock 2 gears together. But according to can am. That locking tool is used to loosen and torque.
I used my secondary clutch tool and it bent slightly. I was shitting brick unthreading it 😂

 

[volitan]

I misunderstood your point the first time maybe.
If you are saying that here is a danger of deforming or shearing the tip of this tool when removing or installing something that puts high torque on the crankshaft then yes my sphincter would pucker too.

thats why now I only get the proper tools lol

 

[volitan]

Although one would think that a tool recommended and sold by BRP would be a 'proper' tool.

for sure!

but in my case I used the bolt to spread the secondary clutch appart as the locking tool
And that was not the right tool as it bent.