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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just did this on a buddys quad as well as on mine a while ago and was reminded of the time consuming research I went through to get all the information I needed while still walking away without all the answers I was looking for.

In my original post in members rides I posted as it came at me, learning as I went, so I thought it might help someone,, -IF- they decided to remove it from their bike,, to have it all in one place and simplify it.

And it will be easier to point someone I meet out on the trail to this to find the info, and myself in the future.
Instead of piecing it all together from the original thread since there was more going on than this thing.
I actually found it by accident but Im glad I did.

This is on a 2007 400 but they are on multitudes of bikes so make up your own mind if its something you want to do on yours.

What I did was remove the whole setup and reinstall the shorter bolt from the back head of an 800.

No problems
Starts awesome
Time bomb gone!

A couple notable posts I came across that helped me decide to pull it or not...thank you OP's...



Ok, onwards...

This is it
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So what I did 1st was order the shorter bolt for the back head for a 800 to replace #26, the longer 400 bolt.

Part #420241721
Hex collar screw M8 X 20

Then pulled the pot metal weight, the pin and the spring.
#s 24, 23 and 21

No need to pull the sprocket or chain. Mine stayed in place with the bolt out but I stuffed a rag underneath it just in case I dropped anything.
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Reinstalled the spacer #22,
the outer metal #25 and the longer stock 400 bolt so I could ride while the 800 bolt was being delivered.

And just fyi, I rode it hard like this so theoretically you could leave it like this but just to be bulletproof, Id install and torque the shorter bolt.
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Once the shorter 800 bolt arrived
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I pulled everything
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Installed the 800 bolt
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And have been running it ever since with the confidence that even though it may be a one in a million chance the pot metal may fail,

Thats a chance Im not willing to take on my quad.

Happy trails!
 

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Had this happen to the guy that does our shearing. He replaced it but didn't get the bolt tight. The timing obviously got off as the gear spun separate from the cams. We removed the weight and reinstalled it like you did before you got the longer bolt. It starts fine with the button but I'm not sure if the pull start is any harder. I dont remember if w tried it or not.
 
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Just for the sake of adding anothers' experience, and keeping older events "current", there's my post on addressing the same. HTH,
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It took 2 and a half men, 2 broke girls, a small boy and a team of horses to pull that pull rope and start it with the weight setup in place anyway.
It still starts with the pull rope but if you want to see it on my bike you'll have to do it yourself lol
Im not touching that thing again unless my e-start fails for some reason.

From what I understand the pull rope doesnt help with a dead battery which is the only scenario I can see where it would come in handy in camp.

These year models seem popular. I recently had a conversation about the thing and removed another one so I thought Id compress the info into one place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Had this happen to the guy that does our shearing....

before you got the longer bolt....
Thank you.
Right off the bat there is someone who knows someone this has happened to so thank you.
One in a million??
Not taking any chances on mine.

The 800 bolt is actually shorter, not longer. You could always cut down the longer bolt from the weight setup as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Just for the sake of adding anothers' experience, and keeping older events "current", there's my post on addressing the same. HTH,
Thank you too for that ^^^

Did you cut your bolt down or get the 800 bolt? I forget.

Any problems, hows it running?
I also adjusted the tensioner, gave it an inspection and checked the valves while I was in there.
New gasket didnt solve my oil seep but an aluminum valve cover did (y)

I like the vid it really shows the weakness/vulnerability of the thing.
Pot metal is pot metal.

Thanks again!
 

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Man I reused the OE bolt just left that plate/spacer in there for now. Bike's doing fine, just chilling in the garage for now.

But now that you reminded me, I may get that 800 bolt for when I get around to putting that valve cover on ( thanks again, btw!)
 

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Oops, yeah I meant shorter bolt. Our friend used some JB weld on his cracked valve cover. Guess he'll see if it holds. It's mostly a farm rig so it's not like he's many miles from home if it leaks.
He did say it felt down on power after we left but I'm not sure we didn't get the timing off by a tooth. He didn't have a bolt the correct size to put in the crank lock hole. We thought it was correct at the time and only started it up to make sure it ran. He's a couple hours north of us or I'd go help him check it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man I reused the OE bolt just left that plate/spacer in there for now. Bike's doing fine, just chilling in the garage for now.

But now that you reminded me, I may get that 800 bolt for when I get around to putting that valve cover on ( thanks again, btw!)
I ran it hard like that for a week & it was fine. Im sure a guy could leave it like that, the only thing slinging around was that weight & as long as its gone im happy.

Easy to miss a tooth with the timing. For a farm rig that sees occasional use not that big of deal. As long as it starts and runs smooth short trips probably wont hurt it much.
 

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Hi there, I am in the process of doing this exact procedure. I just want to be sure and clarify that the pin (#21) does NOT need to be put back in? Thank you
 

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Toss it, it stays out, does not get re-installed.
 
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