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Outlander Max X-TP 1000T
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Having viewed this thread that @xsever had linked to, and previously considered getting some directional lighting in place, I thought I’d take the plunge and get them installed.

The Auxiliary Windshield Lighting Kit that BRP supply is priced at a whopping £346.80 MRSP ($480.76) :oops: over here, so I wouldn’t even consider going down that route. A quick scan around eBay and Amazon secured a pair of 2”, 10 watt, 1000lm, 12v LED lamps for the princely sum of £16 ($22) delivered. After popping the windshield off and disassembling the Deluxe Fairing, it was relatively easy to mount them using 2x M6x55mm bolts and associated nyloc nuts and washers. I also slid in an extra 2 shakeproof washers per unit - one between the lamp and the bracket and another between the bracket and the plastic of the fairing recess. That prevents the lamps from rotating in the housing once tightened up, but also allows slight manual adjustment to be made without having to take the fairing apart again.

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The BRP kit is on a 3 way switch that permits the lights to be operated in conjunction with the high beams or independently. I wasn’t too fussed about them coming on with the main lighting, so opted for a simple 19mm illuminated latching switch from eBay. If you want to run them the BRP way it’s relatively simple to run an additional wire from the hi beam switched live to the output of my switch as below and you’ll have the switch illuminate when they come on as well. There’s just enough room towards the top of the fairing ‘console’ to locate the switch with it’s associated wiring socket with clearance behind.

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Wiring was simple provided you remember that Chinese illuminated LED switches are black for +ve and red for -ve! :rolleyes: So wiring for the switch to illuminate when the lights are on is:

Power feed +ve to green wire (common contact)
Power feed -ve to red wire (LED -ve) and black on lamps.
Blue wire (switched normally open output) connect to black wire (LED +ve) and red on lamps.
Yellow wire is the normally closed contact, so redundant for my purpose.

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There’s enough room in that central ‘console’ section of the fairing to hold the wiring and connectors, so I ran the power feed cable out to the L/H side and drilled through the plastic web around the cup holder base to keep it supported and out of the way, then terminated with a Superseal connector.

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Next job was to run a 12v ignition controlled power supply. Not a problem as I’ve already located and tapped into accessory power feed DC3 in the loom bundle around the front of the headstock for my Garmin Montana GPS. As the lamps would only draw 1amp apiece when in use I used one of the blue connector doublers readily available on eBay and Amazon - but usually advertised for the Maverick for some reason.

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Another Superseal connector on the bare pigtails, followed by a short run of wire, cable tied to the loom up to the handlebars, and I could connect to the fairing socket underneath the mounting arm - so it’s nigh on invisible and out of the weather should I run without the fairing.

Power on and ….Bingo, I have some directional lighting at minimal cost!

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2015 Outlander XMR 650
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Really clean install, nice job!
 

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Have you tried them in the dark? Thinking you may get some nasty reflection on the windshield
 

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Outlander Max X-TP 1000T
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270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Briefly so far, but they’re working really well.

The recess in the Deluxe Fairing that they mount into is completely compartmentalised, so there’s no light leakage through the fairing. The windshield (or the fairing, forget which) has a water seal with it that gets installed above where the lights mount, so again no light spillage onto the screen itself. Having them on is just like looking through a car windshield with spotlights on.
 
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