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Dynamic Power Steering (DPS) problem

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17K views 42 replies 13 participants last post by  cptmorgan  
#1 ·
Hi guys. First off, English is not my first language, so please bear with me.
I have a 2021 Can-Am Outlander Max XT 650 T. Yesterday when I powered up the power steering didn't work and the display reported there was a DPS problem. I switched the engine and ignition off and then back on again, and everything was fine. Then off and on again, and the error reappeared. The same has been the case today; sometimes DPS works, sometimes it doesn't.
I called the dealer who advised me to check the fuses first. I did that without finding a fault, but as everything works every other time or so, I didn't expect it to be a blown fuse.
The dealer also advised me to check that the connections on the battery terminals were sufficiently tight as the DPS unit needed a lot of power and that loose battery connections could possibly cause such errors. Both battery poles were properly tight so the fault is not there.
Are there other things I can check myself, or does the vehicle need to be taken to a dealer for more sophisticated troubleshooting? Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
You might want to have your battery load tested. Being that the DPS uses a good amount of amperage, a weak battery could cause the issues you are having. If the battery checks out I would trace the wire harness and cables going to the DPS unit and look for connections in poor condition or loose. Also check for chaffed wires.

And your English is spot-on 👍🏼
 
#5 · (Edited)
When you mentioned that you checked the fuses, most of the time people don't realize that there are a couple stand alone fuses (40Amp Main and 40Amp DPS). On your ride, they are located just below the seat on the right hand side (you can see them without removing the seat). If you have the owners manual you will find information about them on page 158. What your checking for is if the connections are solid.
 
#8 ·
Update: The battery tested fine.
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Next up was checking the stand alone fuses as mentioned by Chief - from the manual,
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I couldn't spot anything that looked like a fuse box with the seat on, and not much more with the seat off,
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But when I bended the side panels out of the way these contacts here appeared,
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Am I on the right track, is the rear fuse box one of these?
Thanks.
 
#13 ·
Update: The battery tested fine.
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I'm still thinking its a low voltage issue. Like I mentioned before, our kit won't even kick on if you're not getting at least 12.8v with the key on. Yours is coming in at 12.79v, and even though its right there.....its not going to kick the power steering motor on. Ours will also kick the motor off if you ever drop below 12.8v. So it needs a minimum of 12.8v to start and maintain power.
 
#11 · (Edited)
The fuses were located behind the connector marked #2 - I had to cut the clips marked with yellow arrows below to get the holder out in the open.
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Here it is,
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And here it is opened. The fuses sat nice and tight so I can't imagine that the problem lies here. The only "strange" thing was that the fuses and holder were full of grease. Haven't seen this before, but it's probably to prevent the ingress of moisture.
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I also dismantled the panel behind the right front wheel to get to the DPS unit, but no obvious cable breaks or anything else abnormal - not that my untrained eyes was able to see anyway.
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Incidentally, the error persists as before; that is the power steering works about every other time I start up the machine.
- Are there other things I could check? Thanks again.
 
#15 ·
The only "strange" thing was that the fuses and holder were full of grease. Haven't seen this before, but it's probably to prevent the ingress of moisture.
That looks like some sort of dialectic grease, a lot of people use that on electrical connections to protect them from corrosion. I see that your ride is a 2021, are you the 1st owner? I don't recall seeing that added by BRP, but maybe they do.
 
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#12 ·
So they were hidden behind there of course. I read on a thread here not so long ago a member said the fuses were good, but under a real good inspection he found one was dead, very hard to see.
I would change them both just to be sure and if it does not help then at least that would be cleared out of the table.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I'm still thinking it's a low voltage issue. (..)So it needs a minimum of 12.8v to start and maintain power.
Sorry, I missed your post here before SuperATV.
Just to avoid misunderstandings; the battery test here was carried out without the engine running - with the engine running (and thus also the dynamo running) the voltage will be higher (ideal 14+ v).
I am of course happy to purchase a new battery if this is likely to solve the issue, but I believe the average new 12 volt battery has resting voltage below 12.8 volt (between 12.6 and 12.8 according to google). Or does the batteries used here perhaps have higher resting voltage than "normal" 12 volt batteries?
So they were hidden behind there of course. (..) I would change them both just to be sure and if it does not help then at least that would be cleared out of the table.
Good advice. I should have tought of that when I had it all out in the open. But now that I know where to look it's easy to bring them back out - on my to-do-list for tomorrow.

Thank you both for your input. Appreciated.
 
#16 · (Edited)
.. are you the 1st owner?
I am the second owner. The first owner was 70 something and only drove 30 hours (154 km) in the 12 or so months he had it. It looked new when I got it two years ago, November 2022.
.. it needs a minimum of 12.8v to start and maintain power.
Voltage with engine running indicates normal charging.
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.. the fuses (..) I would change them both just to be sure and if it does not help then at least that would be cleared out of the table.
Both fuses now replaced ..
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.. but unfortunately the error persists.
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Any other tips on what could be causing the error are appreciated.
 
#17 ·
You need to pull the code. You should be able to go to settings and pull it.
 
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#21 ·
P0562:
MODULE: DPS
DESCRIPTION: System Voltage low
CAUSE: Blown fuse, battery low (damaged magneto/regulator), damaged circuit wires or connection, intense winch usage
ACTION: Check the two DPS fuses Validate that all the DPS connectors are secured Measure voltage between harness connector DPS2-A&B and ground (expected value – 11 to 13 volts) Measure batter voltage with engine stopped. (Expected value 11 to 13 volts) Check ground and positive connections on battery.

P1F05
MODULE: DPS
DESCRIPTION: Motor current sensor range/performance
CAUSE: Motor input vs output Current correlation check failed
ACTION: External troubleshooting is not possible Replace the DPS
 
#22 ·
A P0562 code in a Can-Am ATV indicates that the Power Control Module (PCM) has detected a drop in the vehicle's voltage supply:


  • What it means
    A P0562 code indicates that the voltage supply in the vehicle has dropped below a certain threshold. This can cause electrical components to stop working or stop working altogether.






P1F05

Module: DPS

Description: Motor current sensor range/performance

Possible Causes: Possible internal component failure

Service Actions:
If Occured: - Check the connectors on the DPS for moisture and corrosion. - Clear the Fault.
If Active: - Key-Off until complete vehicle shut-down. -Key-On- If fault is still active, further external troubleshooting is not possible. DPS must be replaced.


That's from a BRP Spyder forum, but it's probably similar.

The P0562 and low voltage associated with it could have caused the P1F05 code easily. When my fuel pump fuse blew I got like 4 codes that had nothing to do with it.

I would replace the battery, worst case scenario is you have a new battery. Then you need to get those codes cleared and see if it stays away.

After that I would focus on corroded connections or possible mice damage or loose wires. Your voltage while running looks good so I doubt it's a charging system issue.

If you had the DPS code by itself I would say yeah maybe the DPS module is bad, but with the voltage code I doubt it's the DPS module. That's just me.
 
#23 ·
The only other thing I will say, is that if everything else is good, and the DPS module is going bad, it could be dragging the voltage down itself. Like sometimes when a starter goes bad it pulls wayyy too much current. Almost always the low voltage causes the DPS to bug out, but it's possible it's the other way around.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Update: I have now tested with a new battery, but unfortunately the error persists. - My battery guy didn't have a new battery with the right terminals in stock, so he let me borrow another one so that I could test with jumper cables. But nope.
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I also disconnected the cable connector that goes into the DPS unit to check for corrosion, but it looked fine. Unfortunately I was about to say.
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Grease had been used also here (as was also the case in rear fuse box).
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By the way, if anyone else here should ever need to disconnect this connector, the trick is to first pull out the white bracket (which function is to keep the connector locked in place). Perhaps common knowledge for most on here, but I for one had never seen this variant before.
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To sum up, I don't think there is any way out of delivering the machine to a dealer for troubleshooting and repair.
I will update this thread when I have more information, but it may take some time (weeks) before I can get it transported to a workshop (which is quite a distance away).
Have a great weekend all, and many thanks to all who has contributed with possible fixes.
 
#27 ·
Yep. Was just going to say at this point, you need to have codes reset so you can see for sure what code is popping up. Thabks for keeping us updated.
 
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#28 ·
I see you tested battery voltage, but did you load test it? Big difference. If your battery has a bad cell in it, it may only show up under load. See if you can borrow a known good battery (the correct one) and swap it in.

https://boostatv.com/test-battery/
 
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#29 ·
I see you tested battery voltage, but did you load test it?
Thanks for your input. Yes, I also had the battery load tested. My battery guy said the same as you; a digital test is only so good, to make absolutely sure a load test is also required. The results from both tests were very good, the same as you would expect from a brand new battery.
 
#31 · (Edited)
It's really unfortunate the only way you could try the new battery was with jumper cables.
The battery came out as top notch in all tests, but just to make absolutely sure beyond doubt, I also tested with a brand new battery hooked up with jumper cables. Sure, had my battery shop had a battery that fitted in stock, I would've gone for that, but I'm afraid the result would've been the same.
Although I have learned from you guys on here that the battery may often be to blame with DPS errors, I believe we have established that in this case here, a DPS failure unfortunately is just that, a DPS failure.
But thanks again for your input. I'll keep you all posted when I have the final answer.
 
#34 · (Edited)
You haven't tested the machine with a new battery properly fitted.
That's true, but I have tested with a new battery hooked up with jumper cables.
And you haven't cleared the codes after doing so.
Surely, the error codes can hardly be deleted as long as the error persists?
Also, doesn't one need more sophisticated equipment to do this, or is it something you can do yourself?
 
#35 ·
The vehicle will be taken to a dealer later this week for further troubleshooting and repair.
I have recently changed the engine oil and filter, and also lubricated all the grease nipples, so this is already in order.
I have agreed with the workshop that they adjust the valves and change the transmission oil as well as check the brakes while at the workshop. - Are there other service points that it might be a good idea that the workshop to look at at the same time?
Thanks.
 
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