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I had my ecu tuned by ray at wholesale atv. They are one of the few companies who can actually tune your ecu. I had them adjust timing and fueling for the different cam I am running. He was able to get a tune to make my bike run great with out me even putting a wide band on yet. I would recommend them. Way better than the tune I got from mrrpm


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anyone know what program they are using to tune the ECU. I want to make a tune myself.
 

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Hey guys, Just ran across this thread, Let me clear a few things up, I don't own the dealership I work at, I have been working there for almost 8 years now though, we do sell can am & always have a bunch of Can Ams on the floor, & in the back being built, we have a section on the website just for can ams (We actually build alot of can ams, many custom that never even make it on the site) I just want to to clear this up, I've been in the powersports industry working for over a decade now, & I'd say we've sold close to 50 can ams already this year, now I seen the post on the 570, fact is they don't gain as much power from tuning as the bigger cc motors, there is still a noticeable difference & measurable difference on the dyno as well but It's not a "world of difference" it is just a couple hp, now on the 800's-1000's it's a bit bigger difference, like 3-7 rwhp x that by 27% and you got Advertised engine HP, I also do Gen 1's as well, I have a Race flash that raises rpm to 9500, no brake to start, wot start, allows use of 027 PCV to adjust your own fueling & timing as well, etc, etc, I have also done a # of tunes from exhaust to 840 BBK's, Cams, & Intakes on 07-2012 Outlanders & renegades, & actually just did a 800-1000 mav motor with larger intake, T/B the other day for a guy that brought it down from some 12 hours away. I also can do SXS's, I'm still testing & writing tunes on them that's why I have not released them to the public yet but am doing them here & for local people & few select others in the industry, I have already done some stuff like bbk's & cams for them as well. We write all our tunes on our in house Dynojet dyno, the reason we are so cheap is we don't have to pay no middle man or anyone for using there software/hardware to flash there files, etc, we use our own software & no we don't have to open up computers like most everyone else, we can plug right into the computer, or we can plug right into the factory diagnostic port & flash that way, I am very experienced doing this I think, I do 5-20 a day, on average everyday, I do em for people that come in to the store on spot & about 10 a day threw the mail for people all over the world, I've done close to 1000 in the last year, I've done & still continue to do a lot of high ups in the industries bikes, there customers, Many Amateur, Professional & Can Am Factory Racers, dealerships, distributors & shops all across the world, I do a lot of the Can Am Monsters Guys bikes, Admins, etc & a few others Groups I'm on, there is just too many to keep up with, Now the benefits in Ecu Tuning, would you rather have it done by a professional, or have to figure it out yourself, would you rather have it done in your computer just like the factory would have done it or with a bunch of wires & piggy backs, would you rather have it done in a stamped factory sealed computer & not have to worry about it shorting out or getting wet, would you rather spend $99 for a ecu reflash or $250-$350 for a blinky box or pcv that does nothing compared to what a ecu flash tune can do & even the few things that it can do can not do as good as in the computer it'self. I understand a lot of people are scared of something they do not know nothing about, but ecu flashing has been around for a few year now, & I have been doing it for a year & a half now for 6-7 days a week, 6-8 hours a day, I have just taken it to the next step, I can do rev limiters, fans on earlier, etc I call everyone before I flash there ecu to go over everything they want & make recommendations, answer questions, etc, etc, if any questions of my work, feel free to send me in your ecu & I'll flash it for you & if for some reason you don't like it I'll flash it back to what it was when you first sent it in here (as we keep backups of every ones original file) & refund your $. I have yet to have do that yet but yes I will, I guarantee my work, if there is a problem, I will fix it, if I don't have a tune for a certain setup of mods I will tell you, if you want me to guess I will & if it's wrong I will flash it as many times as necessary to get it right for you for free, I am constantly writing new tunes, already got all the basic tunes done, now I'm working on big bore kits, I've done 570-800 650-800, 650-860, 650-1020, 800-840, 800-1000, 1000-1040, 1000-1018/1020 & am currently doing 1133 & 1180's with multiple different cams, including Throttle bodies & Race Intakes, I am very busy with work, etc & don't have much time to get on here but if you got any questions I will do my best to reply to all of them, Hopefully I explained everything above, oh & yes I can flash a ecu where a dealer can not see it.
good info.What software do you use to capture the tunes and put them in ECUs? I would love to be able to tinker around on my machine myself.
 

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We used a # of different programs before we made/ had made our own, WINOLS is one of the first we started with, it helps decipher what is maps in the code, then we convert it to readable #'s & graphs, binary code is hard to read unless you are experienced coder, after we figured out what we had to do & did it we hired a company to help us make a program that would allow us to lay each map out in readable #'s & graphs using a # of different programs all combined, we then make a tune on the dyno for each bike, mod, etc, & make a master file so when we flash a bike the software compares the file from stock to verify it is the correct file year/model that customer told us, & that it is not corrupt or been flashed before by someone else, our smaller master file allows us to write only certain locations of memory that changes are made, so it takes a few seconds instead of up to 10 minutes depending on ecu, not only does this save time but allow us to do more ecu's in a day for less & without having to pay any middle man or anyone else for using there hardware/software provided by them.
 

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Great thread. I would love to know current turnaround time. I would have sent it in earlier but just took my first ride in warmer weather (70f) and fried my leg all day. Now, I hate to be without my atv burned to get it done.
 

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Well, final thoughts on the WSATV tune. After having the tune for a few months now and putting some miles down, the takeaways are pretty typical of what others have said.
Far less of the fan coming on (its still hot, but no where near stock)
Throttle input has instant response
NO popping, fueling seems great all through the RPM range
The final proof came today when drag racing a similarly clad 1k outlander. First run on asphalt, he got the hit however I never left his rear fender. Second run from a jog on dirt and we were even money the whole way down. For being an 850 with just exhaust and tune I'm EXTREMELY pleased with the results. I'd go get another tune any time I needed one from these guys.

Ray, thanks for you input here and at your shop.
 

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2015 outlander 800r xmr
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Looking into get my ecu flashed and wondering does anyone know if these guys can turn off the dess key I’m plagued with the key jiggle to start my 12 outlander 800 xmr
 

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I believe he can, i have the dess removed on 2 of my machines and think its a good option to go with. i have a key that went bad on another machine and it fires up the machines with the dess removed.
 

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Finally, I had an opportunity to test out the flashed ecu on a nice 145 mile ride on Saturday. I have to say I can’t tell ANY difference. Runs the same. Mileage is the same ( I ran it 91 miles empty before and 91.3 after -I expected it would use more gas after the change). Still very HOT. I did notice my fan running way more often which doesn’t make sense because agreed to leave fan alone. I have a blister on the inside of my calf. So, a couple hours labor, $140 (w/shipping) and four wheeler down for close to two weeks. Couldn’t fix my DESS key, Maintenance required message, or my temp problem. Crap.
I may call but I don’t want my machine down another two weeks so not sure I’ll bother.
 

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Finally, I had an opportunity to test out the flashed ecu on a nice 145 mile ride on Saturday. I have to say I can’t tell ANY difference. Runs the same. Mileage is the same ( I ran it 91 miles empty before and 91.3 after -I expected it would use more gas after the change). Still very HOT. I did notice my fan running way more often which doesn’t make sense because agreed to leave fan alone. I have a blister on the inside of my calf. So, a couple hours labor, $140 (w/shipping) and four wheeler down for close to two weeks. Couldn’t fix my DESS key, Maintenance required message, or my temp problem. Crap.
I may call but I don’t want my machine down another two weeks so not sure I’ll bother.
Don't notice it as much on the smaller bikes, the bigger cc motors makes a bit more noticeable difference,, the fueling does help with cooling but isn't necessarily a night & day difference on all of them, some people don't know there machines good enough to notice the performance differences sometimes or they expect more then what tuning actually does, I try to express this to people that with a 570 or something like that your not going to notice as much as a performance gain as you would on the larger motors but it definitely cools the exhaust down, to cool it down anymore you would have to put more fuel at it, if you want that we can do that but if you add too much fuel you start to loose performance, as you see there is a fine line between cooling down & performance
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Thanks Ray. I appreciate that. My machine is an 800. I felt confident that the flash would cool it down and there was potential for some improvement in throttle response. It is still just as hot and nothing on performance.

I am curious why my fan would be running almost continuous. We talked and you explained that lowering the fan trigger temp wouldn’t be beneficial. So, I would have expected that to remain the same.
 

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Thanks Ray. I appreciate that. My machine is an 800. I felt confident that the flash would cool it down and there was potential for some improvement in throttle response. It is still just as hot and nothing on performance.

I am curious why my fan would be running almost continuous. We talked and you explained that lowering the fan trigger temp wouldn’t be beneficial. So, I would have expected that to remain the same.
I spoke to you on the phone yesterday & explained to you that the old gen 1's don't run as lean as the newer bikes and therefore corrected fueling does not cool them off as much as newer vehicles, stricter emission laws that have come in place since last dozen years since yours was made makes em leaner & leaner almost every year, you said you had recently put a new radiator fan on it as well & that the fans were running longer now & I explained to you that aftermarket fans don't flow as much air as as oem & that is why, lower cfm fans will have to run longer to cool & since they do have to run longer they will blow more heat across your exhaust onto your leg & plastics & will make them even hotter then normal, corrective fueling does cool off exhaust headers, trust me it is running cooler, you may not notice it as much as said above but as I explained to you there is nothing else you can do, you can only add so much fuel to help with cooling the exhaust before it starts to hurt performance, I also explained to you that the longer the fan runs the more heat your going to feel on your legs & plastics & recommended that you get a oem fan that don't run as much & even offered to add more fuel to it if you wanted me to, but like I said the tune does add like 2-3rwhp at wot on the dyno & even more throughout the graph in different locations, & you said it felt alittle more powerful on the phone to me, if your not happy with it, send it back I will gladly flash it back to stock & refund your $ but like I said there is only s much you can do to make them run cooler, try using correct fan & the fans won't turn on so much & blow as much heat on you & your plastics, unless you got something else wrong with your bike, like failing fuel pump, clogged injectors, etc this is how hot they run & what we all deal with having such a big powerful motor squeezed into such a small frame atv.
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Thanks Ray. I appreciate that. My machine is an 800. I felt confident that the flash would cool it down and there was potential for some improvement in throttle response. It is still just as hot and nothing on performance.

I am curious why my fan would be running almost continuous. We talked and you explained that lowering the fan trigger temp wouldn’t be beneficial. So, I would have expected that to remain the same.
Just to add a bit to what ray said. if you add a new fan or radiator to your machine and its not OEM your going to notice a difference. Some things you just need to use OEM parts, and for a G1 800 i believe the Fan and Radiator fall into that category. also there are differences when it come to the fans that make a difference in cooling like how may blades there are and there thickness. Different ways of thinking with different applications and how they differ and there benefits. we also know if its a knock off you can't always believe the wattage/ power output they claim. how many fan blades are on your new fan? Also we are seeing way higher temps than just a few weeks ago so that to can have a big impact. if you want to cut down on heat i would wrap your headers with header wrap from Cool Tech and use the Dei silicone spray, its cuts heat 150' to 200' degrees. install is very important so if you do it research it a bit.
 

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Thanks Ray and 25th.

Ray, I didn’t talk to you yesterday. The only time we spoke was when you received my ecu with the written notes that had the year (2012), model etc and the things I wanted to address. You and I spoke about the temp issue and you explained that changing fan trigger speed wouldn’t help and told me that fueling was how to address heat. You also explained that it isn’t the 200 degree head that I notice: it’s the exhaust heat that is much higher and addressed with fueling/flash. You were certain you could bring temp down and confident that I’d have better throttle response. You theorized I might use a little more fuel and I was ok with that to bring temp down. You told me upfront that you couldn’t set up a DESS key. You were going to do the flash that day and I got my ecu back about a week later.

My machine has original oe fan. I take a very short and slow (15-18 mph) 5 mile ride around my neighborhood many evenings. before the flash, my fan would come on when I stopped n my garage. Now the fan runs during the ride. It ran a lot on my first post flash trail ride last Saturday....not 100% of the time, but it ran a lot more of the time than it wasn’t running.

I don’t want to have my machine down again ( I want to ride). I am concerned about the fan running and wish there was a way to get that corrected without shipping ecu and having my machine down.
 

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Thanks Ray and 25th.

Ray, I didn’t talk to you yesterday. The only time we spoke was when you received my ecu with the written notes that had the year (2012), model etc and the things I wanted to address. You and I spoke about the temp issue and you explained that changing fan trigger speed wouldn’t help and told me that fueling was how to address heat. You also explained that it isn’t the 200 degree head that I notice: it’s the exhaust heat that is much higher and addressed with fueling/flash. You were certain you could bring temp down and confident that I’d have better throttle response. You theorized I might use a little more fuel and I was ok with that to bring temp down. You told me upfront that you couldn’t set up a DESS key. You were going to do the flash that day and I got my ecu back about a week later.

My machine has original oe fan. I take a very short and slow (15-18 mph) 5 mile ride around my neighborhood many evenings. before the flash, my fan would come on when I stopped n my garage. Now the fan runs during the ride. It ran a lot on my first post flash trail ride last Saturday....not 100% of the time, but it ran a lot more of the time than it wasn’t running.

I don’t want to have my machine down again ( I want to ride). I am concerned about the fan running and wish there was a way to get that corrected without shipping ecu and having my machine down.
Sorry thought you said you had aftermarket fan, but like I said, only thing I can do is add alittle more fuel & put timing to stock to try to make it any cooler, there is nothing else that you can do that will cool the exhaust down anymore.
 

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2015 outlander 800r xmr
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Anyone know for sure if they can remove the DESS key I want to send my ecu in for programming but that’s my main reason the extra power and cooling down the machine is just a plus 😜. I’ve tried to call a few times but never get an answer and their website says they are super busy with shipments of parts and machines.
 

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anyone know if these guys are getting backed up on ecu tuning? Their website says that everything else is backed up due to COVID but ecu tuning is still a quick turn around I’m just wondering because I sent my ecu in and it’s been 7 business days and I haven’t received a call yet.
 

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Did the tracking number say that they received it? Could be a USPS hold up.
 
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