[XT800R]

Here's an article I find rather interesting. I guess I don't feel so bad now for breaking both my Outlanders in with the needle buried in the tach lol

Good Read tho.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[bigred1xxc]

Not sure about this. Think go with mfg.

 

[Deadman]

Exactly how I do mine!

 

[Stan1k]

That's pretty interesting reading. The one thing that stood out for me and when I think about it makes sense was about not using synthetic oil for the break in period.

I'm on my 4th new machine. I really didn't pay to much attention to how many miles or hours I put on it during break in. I made note of it but for me it was about how many rides and type of riding I did. I know the majority of people say take it easy which I do for maybe the first 1/2 hour which I do just in case someone forgot to tighten up a bolt or something. But after awhile I just have to hammer it and push the machine. I will do this several times, hammer then take it easy and listen for and strange noises. And I don't mean hammer just for a few seconds, drive hard for 1/2 hour then easy and listen.

I'm not 100% sure what type of oil all my new machines was shipped with. Dealers told me it was some type of break in oil and it did look thinner than usual. What ever it was I really didn't care as I knew it wouldn't be in there too long before I changed it. Also all my dealers didn't care about hours on machine but said to come in around 500 km which I thought was too much. Especially if I did a lot of mudding it would take maybe a year to get there.

I typically would do 3 to 4 rides average of 3 to 4 hours per ride. Then I would dump and inspect all the fluids looking for metal, dirt and water. I always document all my fluid changes and make note of any thing I see. Then I throw in all new fresh synthetic oils and do next change after 6 to 8 rides. After 3rd fluid changes if all looks good then I'm on a semi-annual service every 6 months.

On my next new machine I might change my routine and go with regular oil instead of synthetic for just the 2nd oil change.

As for the valves, I stopped checking them unless I hear or feel something might be wrong. After checking them the first few times I haven't come across anything being out of spec yet. But if you have time sure doesn't hurt to check them.

 

[Rockhead]

The first 25 miles or so requires a easy approach on ATVs to get proper belt stretch and break in, then you can start increasing throttle for longer and higher rpm cycles. I have done it this way and no problems. Remember wide open throttle is recorded on cpu for those worried about warranty. I didn't buy an extended warranty due to all the reasons BRP likes to void them.

 

[ReneDragon]

I've seen this before and it made me think about a recent episode of "How It's Made: Dream Cars". They show how manufacturers build their super cars like Ferrari, Bugatti, and etc. One thing I noticed in certain episodes is they put the engines on some sort of test machine and WOT that biotch and then put it through several paces of varying rpms and etc. I think break in should vary as well with some bursts of WOT after a good warm up.

 

[BLinindoll]

Id just like to point out, while all parameters are recorded on the ECM, your dealer cannot see these parameters unless BRP requests that the dealer sends them the file. It rarely happens. I lost oil pressure at 26 miles. Engine was replaced by the dealer. BRP never requested the files. The only thing they wanted was the engine to be sent right to Rotax for immediate R&D. Id also like to point out that I was breaking in the machine exactly as requested on the manual. While the machine was at the dealer for the engine swap, I saw this article and decided this method makes a lot of sense. Also, every high performance engine builder I have ever talked to about break-ins says drive it like you stole it. (Even my dealers head service tech/manager said the same thing, who shall remain nameless lol) So that's how I broke in my new engine. In 40 miles on the new engine I already have noticeable power gains. With the new engine, it wouldn't wheelie in high with the 28's on it. Now after the 40 miles it wheelies from a dead stop in high with stock clutching.


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[JGimpala800]

I broke mine in the way i would ride it. WFO! And she runs like a top to this day, 155hrs/3500km later. But hey it's your bike if you want to baby it on break-in go nuts! The only thing to really worry about breaking-in is the belt. Gotta let the belt seat to the clutches for around 50 km, then let-er rip.

 

[JetSnake]

Imma stay tuned for future rebuild threads :th_smiliedance:

 

[JGimpala800]

Imma stay tuned for future rebuild threads :th_smiliedance:

Lmfao, ok there bud you'll be waiting a while. ROTAX FTW!:aniwheeler6:

 

[Deadman]

Better grab a Snickers because its gonna be a while!

 

[choPppps]

More than likely all of the motors are run up to red line prior to leaving the line at the factory. Anyone who builds motors follow similar techniques. The main thing is the belt break in. I did this, 4000 kms and climbing, runs great, gets awesome gas mileage.

 

[BrianE]

I have all ways did the initial break in just like this. (ride it like I stole it).

Never had any problems and all my machines have had lots of power and no oil use.

 

[BLinindoll]

Forget belt break in. Id rather spend another $120 on a belt and properly break in my $6k engine lol


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[VooDuuChild]

Break in ways of old are just that in my opinion. Back in the day, the way pieces and parts did not have the precise engineering/machining that they do now. So back then, it took a while for everything to even out. Nowadays, everything is very close tolerance to other parts that are the same. So now, parts can be run hard, straight from the get go. Every new engine I have had, I have run hard from the get go. What I make sure to do is change the oil more often than what is recommended. Run it hard, keep clean oil in it and it has worked for me every single time. My very first run on my Outlander 1000 was 60 miles, hard runs, tight trails, open roads. Never hold any RPM too long, but run that thing out son!!!!!

 

[jmason]

If we are to believe everything this man says, our engines as well as virtually every modern automobile engine is doomed for a life of poor performance. BRP factory fill is synthetic as well as the majority of automotive manufacturers that have switched over to at least a semi synthetic factory fill. And being every single engine is fired up and test run, they are being ruined with that horrible synthetic oil. Since "80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first few minutes," we are all doomed to ride machines with a shortened lifespan and sloppy performance because those dumb engineers didn't get it right. Speaking of which, he also knows better than the hundreds if not thousands of engineers employed by BRP, Honda, Yamaha, Ducati, etc. that designed and built those engines. :umno:

The majority of the break in has come and gone long before we get ahold of our machines.

Ride more, worry less.

 

[Deadman]

The whole reason they want you to break it in is so their warranty expires while you are still running it like a 90 year old woman and they have no claims to fix.
I ran mine hard enough to grenade the belt in 400 miles, so I think I followed this guys break in pretty well! lol

 

[BLinindoll]

Yeah well I got a whole new engine after 26 miles... I win!


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