Well Spawn I feel like your my guinea pig, all the thing you mentioned were things I was thinking about doing but always wondered if it will truly help, sound like it will be for nothing.

In the end I was just going to heat tape area's where I think the exhaust might cause issues and possibly melting warping.

I haven't picked my machine up yet so I will be following this closely, hope the heat reflection works as this is what I plan to do if the heat is to much.

I was looking at Heatshield Products 770002 0.008" Thick x 24" x 24" Lava Heat Shield Mat for mine as this looks like the fiberglass protection on my King.

 

My main heat shield went in the trash after the muzzy and I don't miss it.
I put reflective tape ONLY on the side panel where its very very close to the pipe. Nothing has melted after 1,000 miles and my leg is cool. Bingo!

 

My main heat shield went in the trash after the muzzy and I don't miss it.
I put reflective tape ONLY on the side panel where its very very close to the pipe. Nothing has melted after 1,000 miles and my leg is cool. Bingo!

I thought about only doing that, but my usual pace is only 15 mph or under which really is too slow to keep that big engine cool. I'm not using my heat shields either, but I think I will probably need a little more protection because of my slow pace.

 

I never noticed that. Is yours a rear exit or a side exit like my Renegade?

 

Mine exits out the rear....I've had several people including the main mechanic at the dealer to tell me not to worry about the value covers but it still concerns me bc I don't know how durable/heat resistant those polymer covers...maybe I'm just paranoid...will post pics tomorrow

 

I realize that the process of having the entire exhaust pipes jet-hot ceramic coated inside and out may be a little costly, but I would like to know if this process really worked and did the job? Good info on the other process's and whether they worked or not. :th_smiliethumbsup: Gonna have to get me a set of those aluminum valve covers, and some of that floor and tunnel shield II

 

I had one of my street bike exhausts coated by Jet Hot. It didn't reduce external temps as much as wrap but it sure looks nice.

 

TNRon I'm with you, I'm surprised the valve covers aren't aluminum from the factory, I might pick up a set just to have on standby


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Hell if they can be bolted directly to the heads, I'm not worried about them getting hot from the exhaust. Hell they are always hot….
Some plastics can really tolerate heat, so I'm sure this is one of those plastics.

 

I'm a newbie, is there a way to make the machine run less lean to combat heat?

 

Only by adding a fuel controller/programmer...

 

Sure you can get those "cheap" cast valve covers for $50, but wouldn't those billet aluminium ones be sweet? and only $900 for the set, great deal. lol

 

Have you seen his billet air guide (belt box rear piece)?

 

Spawn i am running the same setup as you are, Muzzy duals and also removed the stock heat shields per John. I melted my plastic right near the rear black plastic on my first ride. any way I used a piece of reflective heat tape which helped a good bit then also installed the Hayden fan mod which helped 3 times over. Currently I cant really feel much heat at all and I ride in Florida. :clapsmilie:

 

Ya the fan needs to come on much sooner, or these things are nuclear reactors.

 

Piss poor designed atv. Maintenance is a pain in the ass and constantly melting stuff. Canam should recall them and fix their problems. Sure the power is sweet but shouldn't have to rip a new machine apart to fix it.

 

As we all know, our engines run lean from the factory to pass emissions. There have been many threads and good ideas to combat this. I've tried removing my stock exhaust and wrapping it. Then I added a fuel controller to my stock exhaust and my XMR still produced too much exhaust heat. So, I have since removed the stock exhaust and added a full exhaust (Muzzy Duals) and now have a new tune for the fuel controller. This has helped lower the exhaust temp but not enough to keep it from possibly causing some melting plastics issues. So, here is what I am doing....According to VforceJohn, the heat shields should be removed and left off when adding the full Muzzy exhaust because the shields help trap the heat and keep it from dissipating. I agree with him, but my problem is that I don't ride fast enough to help the heat dissipate so, my XMR could still possibly cause a melting plastic issue. So, I am leaving my heat shields off, like he recommended but I am adding D.E.I. "Floor and Tunnel Shield II-Heat and Sound Insulation" to all side plastics and any rubber or wire components around the exhaust. This insulation from D.E.I. says that it can with stand 1750 degrees of direct heat and the adhesive will continue to stick with temps up to 450 degrees. I believe adding this will offer better protection than just heat shields and heat tape. It is also WAY less trouble than wrapping the exhaust and doesn't cause any of the possible issues with wraps rusting pipes etc....
Here is the link to the material I am adding:
Floor & Tunnel Shield II - Heat & Sound Insulation 050501 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products

How much Floor & Tunnel Shield II material did you end up needing? I only have a slip on exhaust so would the same method of removing the heat shields apply or would I be better off ordering the can-am high heat kit and using that?

 

Anyone try removing the inner wheel wells? I've seen it done on some machines. NO other ATV i have ever owned/ridden has had them, and with them off there is WAYY more airflow under the plastics.

 

Interesting thought, maybe even better would be to cut a hole in the wheel well plastic and put some sort of deflector to direct the air onto the exhaust, that way you still have the mud protection in the front area and increase air flow across the pipes.

 

any updates from anyone on this ?

 

No issues at all after covering the plastics and other areas with the D.E.I. stuff and doing the "fan mod"....I've taken my plastics on both sides back off several times and nothing has melted....My rear left fender does still get warm but after adding the D.E.I stuff to the underside of it, the heat has dissipated quite a bit and nothing has melted....So, if you add the D.E.I. and do the "fan mod" or add a hayden fan control you shouldn't have any issues.

 

heat

there are thousands and thousands of can-am outlanders out there that dont have melting plastic problems, i am one of them. sure the engine gets hot but i think can-am knows this and has done what their supposed to to combat the heat. i ride with others that do not also. i would try a new approach......take all the garbage thats hooked up to the wheeler and put it back to stock and see what happens? the heat shield is just that!!?? its your only defense between your plastic and the very hot exhaust.
some guys take it off??? :th_smiliefrustrated im thinking can-am has this under wraps or we would all have melting plastic. im not trying to be an ass but i am just expressing an opinion. i hate to see some guys chase down a problem that they might never solve, spending lots of money and time on something they might have caused themselves.
1,573 views on this thread and 21 replies, im thinking not many people have this problem but i could be wrong as always. cheers

 

there are thousands and thousands of can-am outlanders out there that dont have melting plastic problems, i am one of them. sure the engine gets hot but i think can-am knows this and has done what their supposed to to combat the heat. i ride with others that do not also. i would try a new approach......take all the garbage thats hooked up to the wheeler and put it back to stock and see what happens? the heat shield is just that!!?? its your only defense between your plastic and the very hot exhaust.
some guys take it off??? :th_smiliefrustrated im thinking can-am has this under wraps or we would all have melting plastic. im not trying to be an ass but i am just expressing an opinion. i hate to see some guys chase down a problem that they might never solve, spending lots of money and time on something they might have caused themselves.
1,573 views on this thread and 21 replies, im thinking not many people have this problem but i could be wrong as always. cheers

This is mostly an XMR. And it's even worse for the bigger cc's motors such as the 1000's like mine....my seat melted within under 30 hours and that is from having a totally stock bike and I trail ride....my plastics had gotten so hot you couldn't touch them and like I said that is on a totally stock xmr...so, I tried each improvement by itself until I found out what works and didn't work. I've tried wrapping exhaust, etc....the only things that I found that helped were doing the fan mod and protecting the plastics with heat retardant material like the stuff from D.E.I....I did add an aftermarket exhaust and full controller before doing the fan mod and adding the heat material and my plastics STILL got to damn hot to touch! So, I did the fan mod to cool the engine and protected my plastics with the heat material and I have been good to go ever since.....and the cause of this is a BRP engineering problem, not an ownership problem. Bc once again, mine started melting on a TOTALLY stock machine....and the "garbage" that you refer to as fan mod, heat material, exhaust, and fuel controller is what has saved my investment in this bike.....

 

at 30 hours you had your seat melt and plastic so hot you couldn't touch it??
still under warranty then....i would have parked it on the dealers lawn and told them to call me when its fixed. lol brp would have got an earful too

 

It was out of six month warranty when I noticed that the seat had melted. But My dealer did get BRP to send me a new seat as a good will gesture even though warranty was out bc I had such low hours and that I hadn't sunk or muddied it and had kept it in prestine condition. The b.s. thing is that that the BRP tech guy told my dealers mechanic that the reason mine was getting so hot is bc I dont ride fast enough. Which I'm sure helps if you ride fast but where I ride you can't go more than 5-10 mph or you run into a tree! Lol!....regardless I believe that you should be able to drive as slow or fast as you wanted without regard to having to worry about moving air thru the machine.....the reason that the machines get so hot is bc the bigger the motor the more heat it creates, which even worse on the BRP design bc all that side plastics around the motor holds in the heat; and the engine is to lean from the factory bc BRP has to past emission; and the last reason is design. The reason the XMRs have this issue is bc of how it's snorkeled, etc.......at least these are the reasons that I think is causing the extreme heat.

 

The b.s. thing is that that the BRP tech guy told my dealers mechanic that the reason mine was getting so hot is bc I dont ride fast enough. Which I'm sure helps if you ride fast but where I ride you can't go more than 5-10 mph or you run into a tree! Lol!..

that's my exact problem and the only reason I have not bought the outlander 1000xt yet. I am now looking towards a brute force 750. the area I ride is very wooded and rocky and I often ride alone I do not ride at a fast pace. the brutes motor is not encased in plastic so the heat is able to escape and having 2 brutes before I never had a heat problem but damn I want that 1000xt !!!!

 

are you sure its a good idea to remove the heat shield? thats the only defense you have,,,,

 

real slow ride here too, kinda doubt the brute would be any different till you mod it any way, the rad is designed to be just enough, they have to be as lean tuned as any, , there are no covers on the side of the rad anymore, at least the xts have rad covers, the suspension on them is pretty rough riding too. they are alot alike to me and if they would have come within a grand of the outty i bought i would have a super black eps one instead of this. but it was about 4 grand more out the door

 

i would throw the warranty card at them for repairs on a 2017

 

you can say that but the reality is the only fixes are aftermarket mods and they are not going to out them on, you are wasting your breath if you try and get the dealer to make it stop. i would have them buy the melted parts, and fix it myself

 

my 15' 800 xmd is all factory, except for snorkel extensions and a k&n air filter and didn't have a melting problem until about 7 0r 8 rides ago. I've owned it for 1 year 9months and i ride every weekend.

the plastics get so hot you can't touch them. not sure what has changed on my wheeler but they will melt weather or not u have the factory heat shield

 

Was wondering how many guys had there plastics melt on brand new 2016 xmr renegade 1000. I wrapped the back half of exhaust where it is visible from the back fender to muffler and added some more heat tape to side plastics and gas tank & seat only rode one time so far plastics by rear fender near seat still got hot .just concerned about burning up.

 

You still need two more things. Add a fan controller to turn fan on sooner and a fuel controller to richen up the fuel mixture bc can ams run lean from factory...and instead of heat tape use D.E.I.'s floor and tunnel II heat material. It's much better and offers more heat protection...also might want to look into getting an aftermarket exhaust bc stock exhaust is very restrictive in letting airflow out......and as far as whether any 2016 renegade XMRs have melted, the answer is YES!...so watch yours close

 

Thanks spawn I ordered the floor and tunnel material from DEI.