These machines only have toe in and out adjustments.
Probably just sagging due to age .

 

Possibly worn lower ball joints.

 

I installed new ones a few months ago. It is ok.
Also new bushings and tie rod ends.
Everything is new.

 

Like on the car drawing, but not quite this much

It would be good to know just how much we are talking about. Sometimes mine looks a bit off but it checks out OK.
Are both sides off by the same amount?

 

The right wheel is in a worse situation than the left.

 

If you jack up the front end, and haul on the wheels in various angles, do you feel any slop?

 

No all is well, no slop.

 

If you put a jack under the front frame and raise it to unload the suspension , do the wheels appear normal again ?

 

2005 BRP Traxter manual shows 0 camber

 

You need to place a floor jack directly under the A-arm as close to the lower ball joint and lift the front wheel off the ground, then grab the top and bottom of the wheel and check for any movement or play.

Lifting directly under the A-arm simulates the wheel and suspension under a normal load and will expose any wheel bearing or suspension issues.

 

I did it and all is well, no slop. I can't find the logic.

 

Can you get us a picture?

 

So, any updates?

 

I am not able to do anything with Traxter at the moment. In about ten days I will have a picture and more details. Thank you all for your interest and willingness to help.

 

Any chance the springs have slipped over the bump on the shocks? From your picture it appears like the front end is overloaded right?

 

Shock absorber springs are good. I don't think the shock absorber can affect it camber angle.

 

If the springs lose preload or are no longer supporting the front end it would cause the machine to sag as it was overloaded. Since there have been other complaints of the front shock lower spring perch failures It seemed reasonable.

I assume this is something that happened suddenly ?

 

Currently,
In the all positions, when I move the hub up and down, the angle is the same.

 

Did this happen before or after you changed the front end parts?

Have you put a straight edge on the arms to check for bends?

Any of the arm mounts (frame) worn?
A slight bit of wear and you would see a large change at the opposite end near the wheel.

If you loosen the arm bolts can you move the hub back to zero with the play when loose?

 

Did this happen before or after you changed the front end parts?

Have you put a straight edge on the arms to check for bends?

Any of the arm mounts (frame) worn?
A slight bit of wear and you would see a large change at the opposite end near the wheel.

If you loosen the arm bolts can you move the hub back to zero with the play when loose?

Yes, there were before replacement parts, but I wasn't really interested. Now I decided to see what the problem is. The upper and lower arms are fine and not distorted.
Tomorrow I will check this - If you loosen the arm bolts can you move the hub back to zero with the play when loose?

 

I am not sure but that is what I would want know, if there is a frame mount that has enough slop to allow for the problem then I am sure there is a fix.

 

Can you post more photos of the front suspension itself?
What year is the Traxter?

 

Traxter is 2002.
Has anyone had this problem? I can't believe it's just me.

 

It doesn't look like the lower arm has been removed and cleaned where it attaches to the frame like the upper one has . Did you remove all 4 A arms and inspect / replace bushings ? Are the holes wallowed out ?
The lowers always get the most abuse .

 

The top arm has been inspected and is good.
Today I will check lower arm.
Bushings are new ones a few months ago, there is no movement anywhere on the bushings.

 

I removed lower arm. Everything is fine, there is a little tolerance on the frame bolts, but it is normal for the bolt to go through. I give up, because I don't see the logic of what could be. The wheels are still at an litle angle.

 

I removed lower arm. Everything is fine, there is a little tolerance on the frame bolts, but it is normal for the bolt to go through. I give up, because I don't see the logic of what could be. The wheels are still at an litle angle.

I can understand your frustration. And others trying to help without being hands on is just as frustrating on our end. But as frustrating as it is, we must solve this mystery!
Looking through your earlier photos, i did see the new top ball joints, but the lowers appear to be original?
Worn lower ball joints will usually show wear by doing a simple test if you feel like continuing.
Fully assemble the vehicle and place back on a hard level surface, place a jack under the lower ball joint nut and lift the tire off the ground a couple of inches.
Facing the wheel, place a long pry bar and a block of wood just under the wheel and and lift up and down on the wheel while looking and feeling for any movement out of the lower ball joint.
If no movement is felt, then remove the jack from the ball joint area and place the jack under the vehicle frame (not the A arm) lifting the wheel off the ground and repeat the pry bar method.
Basically... if the lower ball joint is worn, it will allow the bottom of the wheel to lean outward giving the top of the wheel a negative camber appearance.

 

What do you think, can this be a solution?

 

I wouldwant toknow where the problem is before modifying parts to get where you want to be. Clearly something is off and if you modify the part but where the real problem shows up later you now need to fix the part you modified too. If you go back to when the machine did NOT have this issue think if there was any change,crash or repair to the area.

 

I agree with you. This thing is so simple but can't find the problem. I will continue to drive it like this, and I will monitor it, if the wheels continue to widen, then I will remove everything....

 

Any chance of finding another traxter near you to compare dimensions?

If you suspect the upper arms then consider finding some used replacements if the costs are not too high. On ebay just now I see used upper A arms for $12.00-$150.00 and plenty of them, I would consider changing one at a time on the worst side. Obviously pick the best replacements but that does not mean they will cost $$
Look at the parts that are likely to cause the issue and start shopping with them. Buying ones with ball joints etc would be what I would be after and dont change them to rull everything on your machine in or out.