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I'm about to install my Elkas and wanted to have the correct torque specs for the front and rear shocks before I start.

Thanks in advance for any help
 

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A quick look at my 2013 service manual indicates 45 +/- 7 lb ft for the front shock absorber top bolt and 54 +/- 5 lb ft for the front shocks bottom bolt. Rear shocks top and bottom bolts are both 45 +/- 7 lb ft.

Cheers
 

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I hate brining this old thread back from the dead, but I've searched quite a bit and can't really find any confirmative information.

Can anyone confirm the torque specs listed above are still accurate for the newer models? I've got base 18 650 Outty and Elkas on the way. Just want to be prepared.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I've never torqued a shock bolt in my life. Make em tight.
 

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I've never torqued a shock bolt in my life. Make em tight.
Too tight crushes the mounting tabs and then the shock bushings bind!
Every Can Am shock I've had off....and that would be all of them....had a steel sleeve inside the bushing...never an issue. I snug 'em with normal hand tools, give 'em a bit of a grunt....done. I'm not advocating putting a 3/4 impact on them or a 3' breaker bar. But I'm not wasting my time sticking a torque wrench on 'em. I guess for those who wish too...by all means, look up the torque specs.
 

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I've never torqued a shock bolt in my life. Make em tight.
Too tight crushes the mounting tabs and then the shock bushings bind!
Every Can Am shock I've had off....and that would be all of them....had a steel sleeve inside the bushing...never an issue. I snug 'em with normal hand tools, give 'em a bit of a grunt....done. I'm not advocating putting a 3/4 impact on them or a 3' breaker bar. But I'm not wasting my time sticking a torque wrench on 'em. I guess for those who wish too...by all means, look up the torque specs.
I agree. I do the same and have never ever had a problem.

Same as wheels on a car. Do you guys know that EVERY car/truck on the road has a manufacturer's torque spec for the wheels? When was the last time YOU changed a tire and then got out the torque wrench? Me? Never. Just tighten them up with the 4-way good n tight and never think about it again. I'm sure 99% do the same and you don't just see random wheels flying off of cars every day.
 

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Matts175
Shock bolts & wheel lugs are not in the same ballpark! All conscientious tire shops torque the wheel lugs & so do I as well as everyone that I know. I will never lose a wheel & have it kill some innocent person, which has happened more than you apparently have heard or know of. Steel rims are not quite as bad but aluminum rims should always be torqued.
 

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I've never had a wheel fly off and kill anyone... or even become slightly loose... ever. And no... I have NEVER even heard of this happening. On the news on tv, in the newspaper... anything???
 

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I've never had a wheel fly off and kill anyone... or even become slightly loose... ever. And no... I have NEVER even heard of this happening. On the news on tv, in the newspaper... anything???
Do yourself & the rest of the public a favor & type " loose tire " into google search. Knowledge is an amazing thing.
 

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All of those stories are about being loose as in were never even tightened. Like the mechanic put the nuts on by hand, then FORGOT to crank them down once the vehicle was on the ground. I GUARANTEE you... if I take a 4 way lug wrench, tighten in a star pattern and then give each lug an extra unggghhhhh with the tire on the ground... that tire is never going anywhere. Bet you a zillion dollars that's like 120 ft lbs.
 

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Too tight crushes the mounting tabs and then the shock bushings bind!
Every Can Am shock I've had off....and that would be all of them....had a steel sleeve inside the bushing...never an issue. I snug 'em with normal hand tools, give 'em a bit of a grunt....done. I'm not advocating putting a 3/4 impact on them or a 3' breaker bar. But I'm not wasting my time sticking a torque wrench on 'em. I guess for those who wish too...by all means, look up the torque specs.
I agree. I do the same and have never ever had a problem.

Same as wheels on a car. Do you guys know that EVERY car/truck on the road has a manufacturer's torque spec for the wheels? When was the last time YOU changed a tire and then got out the torque wrench? Me? Never. Just tighten them up with the 4-way good n tight and never think about it again. I'm sure 99% do the same and you don't just see random wheels flying off of cars every day.
An older person I know was telling me that he felt it was time to start passing on his mechanical know how to his son,,,,, as he would not be around forever.
He then proceeded to tell me about teaching his son to do a brake job.

He said that his son grabbed a torque wrench to reinstall a tire.... He stopped his son telling him " A torque wrench is NOT for putting a tire on.... It's for taking it off"!:shock:
I begged off of the rest of the story, saying I had something important to do.

I really had to go as I was about to bust out laughing at him.

I hope the rest of the brake job went well for his son.
 

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All of those stories are about being loose as in were never even tightened. Like the mechanic put the nuts on by hand, then FORGOT to crank them down once the vehicle was on the ground. I GUARANTEE you... if I take a 4 way lug wrench, tighten in a star pattern and then give each lug an extra unggghhhhh with the tire on the ground... that tire is never going anywhere. Bet you a zillion dollars that's like 120 ft lbs.
Reality and your story are nowhere near each other. Talk to some experienced mechanics....

I myself have had 3 wheels come loose and 1 actually came off. Every one of them was on aluminum wheels that were not retorqued and probably thrown on by a junk torque stick at a dealership.
 

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All of those stories are about being loose as in were never even tightened. Like the mechanic put the nuts on by hand, then FORGOT to crank them down once the vehicle was on the ground. I GUARANTEE you... if I take a 4 way lug wrench, tighten in a star pattern and then give each lug an extra unggghhhhh with the tire on the ground... that tire is never going anywhere. Bet you a zillion dollars that's like 120 ft lbs.
I imagine most people can get more than the amount of torque required to keep their wheels on. I am a pretty sizable guy and I can no doubt overtorque a wheel, shock or most other nuts. When I change wheels/tires twice a year on my truck and wife's SUV, I always torque them using a good torque wrench and re-torque them a couple of days later. Not because I am afraid of undertightening them, but just the opposite. Junkyards are filled with warped brake rotors from overtightened nuts. For the extra 15 seconds it takes me to do it properly, I do it right. They are also quite different (f150 - 150ft lbs, Mazda 80-100, vw/Audi - 90, etc.). A good tourque wrench will last your lifetime and if you save yourself a set of rotors or a wheel coming off, it pays for itself.

Back to the thread - For the shock bolt, I admit, I would just crank it down as Dave mentioned.
 

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What happens when a wheel is not properly torqued. This happened on the trails around Deadman's area. The wheel literally came off and PASSED HIM BY. We were able to find all the lugs. We then checked the rest of them and they all were not properly torqued. Yes, the local Crivitz dealer (JC Powersports) installed them.
 

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A quick look at my 2013 service manual indicates 45 +/- 7 lb ft for the front shock absorber top bolt and 54 +/- 5 lb ft for the front shocks bottom bolt. Rear shocks top and bottom bolts are both 45 +/- 7 lb ft.

Cheers
thanks
 

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I've never torqued a shock bolt in my life. Make em tight.
Too tight crushes the mounting tabs and then the shock bushings bind!

Fully agreed. Some people think toque specs are for nerds. I would say sometimes this logic is ok, and I go by it too. But there are times I go by the book, lug nuts, shock bolts, anything that has moving parts where friction may cause excess wear, or its under heavy load (wheels, axle nuts, ball joints, tie rods, a arms, shocks, ect..) Torque wrenches are my friend!


I recently redid the bushings for the front upper and lower a-arms on our brute force, I made sure to torque them to spec as I didn't want to crush anything.


Oh and always always always re torque aluminum wheels after 50-100 miles!


Just my 2 cents.
 
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