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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
holy f#@#. basic maint on can ams is truly a pain. have to take foot brake off to change gear box oil. main problem is trying to restart the drain plug, just cant figure any tool to use and cant quite do it with my hand until of course the foot brake comes off. also could have made it easier to drain front and rear diffs too. can am needs to fire and rehire some folks over there. i wonder if their zamboni machines are this hard to maintain:th_smiliefrustrated
 

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Just wait till you want to grease a squeeky steering stem ...
 

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If your steering stem bushings start making noise you have to take the half bushings off and regrease. There is an upper and lower. The top one is a real bugger to get to. The lower is easier only in the sense that you don't have to remove much to access the bolts that hold the half bushings in (down by the pitman arm). The top one is a whole lot of bitchin just to get to the thing..
 

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I didn't think the diff were bad, but the transmission is a frickn joke!
 

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You can do it with just the floorboard off but you have to have a lot of dexterity. Lol
 

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After getting the floor board off and getting the footbrake off it wasnt that bad. To rethread it I put the plug on the socket that it fit and rethreaded it easily then used a swivel to tighten it up.
Getting the footbrake back on was the biggest pain in the ass!
Diffs aint bad and engine oil isnt that bad.
 

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I'm a honda tech by trade,and spannering my outy sometimes pains me, but I just think of the good times I will have riding her when the maintainance is done,
I normally hook the spring back into the bracket 1st then into the brake pedal,

Diff drain bolt idear is insane and sucks,but it is what it is, made up oil guide out of very thin plastic cut to shape and slide it under the diffs to guide the oil out,works very well,
I think the designers at can am must just hate technicians, LOL

Once you get to grips with its ways,maintaining them is Ok, O small hands are very handy.

Just serviced my buddy's new 500 today, it's done 13 hours and the front diff oil seal is leaking, on the input shaft, (it's a shame they are let down by minor niggles). But it's no jap.
 

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The rear diff is hard to work on if you have the BRP Rear Differential Protectors installed, the part that protects the inner CV boot. Makes it almost impossible to get straight on the drain plug. I ende up removing that portion permanently.
 

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On my 1k Max XTP both the drain and fill on the trans can be accessed without removing the foot board. Done it twice now. Socket U joint for drain, a ratcheting box wrench works great for the fill plug. Hand gets a little scratched up, really not difficult at all. All this complaining, LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
jeff, thanks yes i cut away a plastic bottle and works great for a drain. i did have small leak on fill hole but played with it and it sealed fine. sure once floorboard and brake pedal removed the drain bolt is easy to re thread, but there should have been an easier way, same as diffs. 1st quad was a honda and i loved how easy oil, diffs etc were to change. i know mechanics and designers clash but i gotta think that can am purposely make maint. tough so you have to use dealer if not a great mechanic. they even warrantied brake pads cause there was such a big problem with early wear. they explained that they made pads soft cause folks complained about squeeks and noises, yeah right
 

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The thing that really urks me about Can Am is the display...the maintenance required message and the greeting when you first turn the key on can only be reset by the dealer. So, every time I turn my machine on, my machine greets Mike (original owner) and I get a maintenance required message even though I maintenance EVERYTHING before its due. Its piddly, but man is it irritating. Why must they do this? Imagine having to take your vehicle back to the dealer every time you changed your oil to have the light reset? STUPID!!!!
 

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If your steering stem bushings start making noise you have to take the half bushings off and regrease. There is an upper and lower. The top one is a real bugger to get to. The lower is easier only in the sense that you don't have to remove much to access the bolts that hold the half bushings in (down by the pitman arm). The top one is a whole lot of bitchin just to get to the thing..

This has been a thorn in my side since about 500 miles. Ugghh... Makes ya wonder how the steering column on my 10 year old Honda has never made a peep, yet within 500 miles my Gade was squeaking so bad my riding buddies could hear it. And yes, the top is a pain in the arse. I currently have my machine torn down for maintenance since there is over 2 feet of snow and I can't ride it to service/grease everything and decided to try to come up with an easier solution to this delimna, because I really don't feel like tearing the bike apart twice a year to grease a squeaky bushing. I've already taken the bottom bushing off and drilled and tapped a hole and installed a grease fitting. It is easily accessible with a grease gun with a flexable hose. The upper bushing isn't easily accessible, so I am going to drill and tap for 1/8" NPT, thread a pipe to tube adapter in and run a section of plastic tubing down to a more accessible place and install a tube to pipe fitting and thread in a grease zerk in the end of it and permanently fasten it to the frame where I can access it with a grease gun.
Time will tell how well it works. No, it won't be as good as taking it apart and thoroughly greasing both sides but I'm hoping that by pumping a couple of shots into it every so often it will keep it lubed enough to prevent it from squeaking.
 

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If your steering stem bushings start making noise you have to take the half bushings off and regrease. There is an upper and lower. The top one is a real bugger to get to. The lower is easier only in the sense that you don't have to remove much to access the bolts that hold the half bushings in (down by the pitman arm). The top one is a whole lot of bitchin just to get to the thing..

This has been a thorn in my side since about 500 miles. Ugghh... Makes ya wonder how the steering column on my 10 year old Honda has never made a peep, yet within 500 miles my Gade was squeaking so bad my riding buddies could hear it. And yes, the top is a pain in the arse. I currently have my machine torn down for maintenance since there is over 2 feet of snow and I can't ride it to service/grease everything and decided to try to come up with an easier solution to this delimna, because I really don't feel like tearing the bike apart twice a year to grease a squeaky bushing. I've already taken the bottom bushing off and drilled and tapped a hole and installed a grease fitting. It is easily accessible with a grease gun with a flexable hose. The upper bushing isn't easily accessible, so I am going to drill and tap for 1/8" NPT, thread a pipe to tube adapter in and run a section of plastic tubing down to a more accessible place and install a tube to pipe fitting and thread in a grease zerk in the end of it and permanently fasten it to the frame where I can access it with a grease gun.
Time will tell how well it works. No, it won't be as good as taking it apart and thoroughly greasing both sides but I'm hoping that by pumping a couple of shots into it every so often it will keep it lubed enough to prevent it from squeaking.
When you do this, take plenty of pictures and post them here. Good luck.
 

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update?

If your steering stem bushings start making noise you have to take the half bushings off and regrease. There is an upper and lower. The top one is a real bugger to get to. The lower is easier only in the sense that you don't have to remove much to access the bolts that hold the half bushings in (down by the pitman arm). The top one is a whole lot of bitchin just to get to the thing..

This has been a thorn in my side since about 500 miles. Ugghh... Makes ya wonder how the steering column on my 10 year old Honda has never made a peep, yet within 500 miles my Gade was squeaking so bad my riding buddies could hear it. And yes, the top is a pain in the arse. I currently have my machine torn down for maintenance since there is over 2 feet of snow and I can't ride it to service/grease everything and decided to try to come up with an easier solution to this delimna, because I really don't feel like tearing the bike apart twice a year to grease a squeaky bushing. I've already taken the bottom bushing off and drilled and tapped a hole and installed a grease fitting. It is easily accessible with a grease gun with a flexable hose. The upper bushing isn't easily accessible, so I am going to drill and tap for 1/8" NPT, thread a pipe to tube adapter in and run a section of plastic tubing down to a more accessible place and install a tube to pipe fitting and thread in a grease zerk in the end of it and permanently fasten it to the frame where I can access it with a grease gun.
Time will tell how well it works. No, it won't be as good as taking it apart and thoroughly greasing both sides but I'm hoping that by pumping a couple of shots into it every so often it will keep it lubed enough to prevent it from squeaking.

jmason

Did you end up doing this?

I'm quite interested in doing it myself.
 

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Yes I did, over the winter. I'm pleased to say I haven't heard a peep from either bushing since. I have a few pictures I can dig up but I didn't take as many as I should have.

The bottom one is simple as you can drill and tap the cap for a zerk. I used a 45* zerk on that one. The top one is quite a bit more involved, the front plastics and air box have to be removed on the Renegade. On that one I drilled and tapped for a pipe to tube adapter (1/8 npt -1/4 tube 90* elbow). Then I ran a section of plastic 1/4" tubing down to the frame rail in the front, added another 1/4" tube - 1/8" npt adapter with a grease zerk threaded into the end and secured it to the frame rail in the front with a hose clamp. I'm going to find a cleaner way to mount it to the frame when I get time but for now it works.

Another thing I did was I drilled the bushing out slightly larger than the hole the fitting is threaded into. This just allows for the grease to migrate around the steering stem a little easier.

I have a few more pictures but will have to find them later. This one is of the top bushing.
 

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Thanks for the photo, I'm reluctant to remove the air box and all to get to it but I have most the quad torn down now. This seems like it would be for the best in the long run maintenance wise.

Do you think it would it be reasonable to cut a small channel from the grease fitting through the bushing and around the inside for grease to flow?
 

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You could if you could do it without tearing up the bushing. If you haven't seen the inside of them yet, they are somewhat honeycomb shaped (except with rectangles). In other words they are not solid except for at the ends where the o rings seat.

Mine is by no means a long term test as of yet, but in the 3-4 months I've had mine together my bushings havent been this quiet since the machine was brand new. For now I would say drilling a slightly larger hole than the tapped hole in the cap has been sufficient enough to allow the grease to work around the stem.
 
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