[xsever]

Come on over and we will get it hooked right up!

Question for you: since I was able to pull the two error codes using the cluster method, will BUDS take me through a diagnostic walkthrough for each code or will it just display them and that's it?

Since you've got some experience with BUDS now, how would you use it to diagnose my machine? What DPS tests can you run to help you pin point the problem?

 

[Freewill]

Question for you: since I was able to pull the two error codes using the cluster method, will BUDS take me through a diagnostic walkthrough for each code or will it just display them and that's it?

Since you've got some experience with BUDS now, how would you use it to diagnose my machine? What DPS tests can you run to help you pin point the problem?

Yes BUDS will go through each code, list causes, and list solutions to fix it.

 

[xsever]

Yes BUDS will go through each code, list causes, and list solutions to fix it.

Can you please take some screeshots and show me what they recommend doing for code P0636?

 

[Freewill]

In about 9 hours or so. Just clocked in at work.

 

[xsever]

Well, I may have fixed it boys! Fingers crossed!

Here's what I did:
1. Did all electrical checks: fuse box 2 where the DPS' 40 A fuse is; cluster gauge connector; DPS power connector, ground connector, and control connector all passed the test as per the service manual; battery voltage while OFF, during cranking and while running also checked out;
Nothing wrong here.

2. Removed the DPS' motor cover (stator) and I found that part of the magnet's surface inside the cover is rough and pitted even though there were no signs of water or moisture intrusion or rust. I used a very fine sandpaper to get rid of the roughness and sanded it back to full smoothness and put it back together.

Went for a test drive after that and the symptoms were greatly reduced but still there; 50% I'd say.

3. During the test drive, I noticed that the main (thick) electrical harness that goes from the back to the front on the right side was sitting too close to the engine (front cylinder area above near the front chain tensioner) and hence was very warm. This might have happened while I was adjusting the valves last time. I used a small zip-tie to lift it up and distance it from the engine.

After that, I felt as if the problem was 90% gone.

4. Upon further inspection, I found the three sensors that go into the right side of the gearbox to be a bit loose as they were weeping a bit of gearbox fluid. I tightened them well and then went for a test drive and the problem was completely gone. I tried to load the DPS as much as I could during the ride to try and replicate the problem but I couldn't. Everything felt normal again but I must note that it was getting darker and cooler.

I want to say that it's completely fixed but I won't until I go for a full ride during the day when it's warmer and test it rigorously.

I don't know which of the above contributing factors was/were the cause of the problem but logically it could've been a mix of the magnet's pitting, the warm harness, and the speed sensors looseness resulting in erroneous/garbage signals being sent to the DPS unit and hence causing the stuttering. Garbage in garbage out. You know the drill.

I'll definitely report back once I go for a full ride but looking forward to hear your thoughts in the meanwhile.

Although I hate it when my machine is down, but I must admit that wrenching on it and getting to know it more and more creates this amazing bond with it. I love this sport and I love this community. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.

 

[xsever]

These are the internals of the DPS motor and circled in red is the rotor's area where the magnet's surface on the cover was heavily pitted and rough. You can see the area in red is darker than the rest.

 

[CanAmRancher1]

Hard to tell from the picture but I doubt that is your issue. Where your brushes ride could be cleaned up but to me it really sounds like a torque sensor issue. Not necessarily the motor itself.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[BombardierBomb]

3. During the test drive, I noticed that the main (thick) electrical harness that goes from the back to the front on the right side was sitting to close to the engine (front cylinder area above near the front chain tensioner) and hence was very warm. This might have happened while I was adjusting the valves last time. I used a small zip-tie to lift it up and distance it from the engine.

I've read where the DPS harnesses have come into proximity with the coil wire, and those two don't speak the same language.....

 

[Freewill]

Well done!
Those brushes in the motor should be changed.

 

[xsever]

Hard to tell from the picture but I doubt that is your issue. Where your brushes ride could be cleaned up but to me it really sounds like a torque sensor issue. Not necessarily the motor itself.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Yeah I can get that cleaned up. Very easy to take the cover off and work on the internals.
I'm really hoping you're wrong regarding the sensor. Going for a ride tomorrow and will report back.

I've read where the DPS harnesses have come into proximity with the coil wire, and those two don't speak the same language.....

You mean the coil wire could cause interference with the DPS harness?

Well done!
Those brushes in the motor should be changed.

I can do that easily as I'll need to take them off and take them to a place that sells brushes and ask them to match them. Any part number or reference in BUDS about em?

 

[Freewill]

I can do that easily as I'll need to take them off and take them to a place that sells brushes and ask them to match them. Any part number or reference in BUDS about em?

Nothing on brushes.

 

[Freewill]

BUDS2 has extensive codes and information on diagnosing DPS but nothing on brushes or anything internal on the DPS motor.
Going through BUDS2 file on my 1000 XMR I did find this very interesting though..

 

[xsever]

Nothing on brushes.

View attachment 106940

Thanks

BUDS2 has extensive codes and information on diagnosing DPS but nothing on brushes or anything internal on the DPS motor.
Going through BUDS2 file on my 1000 XMR I did find this very interesting though..

View attachment 106941

View attachment 106942

Indeed super interesting. I'm wondering if the DPS harness being close to the engine and coil wire as @BombardierBomb said was causing this interference.

Going on a ride today during the day and will report back.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Freewill]

ThanksIndeed super interesting. I'm wondering if the DPS harness being close to the engine and coil wire as @BombardierBomb said was causing this interference.

Going on a ride today during the day and will report back.

Thanks for the help.

Getting another look at the brushes and armature, I would definately change the brushes and clean the armature where the brushes contact. That is horrible looking! At least clean it if you can't get brushes soon.

 

[xsever]

Getting another look at the brushes and armature, I would definately change the brushes and clean the armature where the brushes contact. That is horrible looking! At least clean it if you can't get brushes soon.

Will do for sure. I'll take the ATV to an automotive electrician friend of mine and have him clean it and source new brushes.

Went for a ride yesterday which consisted of pavement with many corners and gnarly trails requiring 4Lo and lots of steering input. DPS worked flawlessly and I could detect a much smoother assistance at lower speeds even with DPS at medium. I want to link that to the removal of the pitting in the stator as I could feel the motor's output being more damped.

Will report back when I get to the brushes.

 

[BombardierBomb]

You mean the coil wire could cause interference with the DPS harness?

Correct. Something to do with the high-capacity discharge pulses of the coil, affecting a clean DPS power or signal read.

 

[xsever]

Correct. Something to do with the high-capacity discharge pulses of the coil, affecting a clean DPS power or signal read.

I will take a photo next time I have the right side plastic panel off to show where the harness was running and to where I moved it.

 

[xsever]

I went for a ride today and the problem appeared and then disappeared.

When I turned the machine ON to let it warm up a bit and then maneuvered it around to go out, everything was smooth and DPS was working smoothly and flawlessly. The rear inner fenders were still off on both sides to have access to and visibility of the DPS unit. It was hot today.

As I rode to the gas station, the stuttering problem re-appeared both while driving and at standstill.

As I rode it around and to the trail where I was going, the stuttering continued but it wasn't as violent as it's been before. It was just mild.

A couple of minutes before I got to the trail, the problem disappeared and never appeared again regardless of how much I loaded the DPS.

We had a picnic in the forest and about 4 hours later when I turned ON the machine to head home, DPS was still working smoothly and flawlessly?

What do you guys think?

I am still going to remove the plastics and vigorously inspect the path of all the harnesses and wires to ensure no interference is occurring.

I am also going to clean the motor's brushes and/or replace them and just refresh and clean everything there that can be done.

Anything else you suggest short of paying $40 to have the machine BUDS scanned and see if resetting the DPS will fix the problem?

 

[Freewill]

I am also going to clean the motor's brushes and/or replace them and just refresh and clean everything there that can be done.

Anything else you suggest short of paying $40 to have the machine BUDS scanned and see if resetting the DPS will fix the problem?

As what happens with an automotive starter motor, heat will effect the contact with the brushes and armature when they are worn out. Works better when cold. Clean the armature where the brushes ride. If you can get a new set of brushes then problem will be solved for a long time.

 

[xsever]

As what happens with an automotive starter motor, heat will effect the contact with the brushes and armature when they are worn out. Works better when cold. Clean the armature where the brushes ride. If you can get a new set of brushes then problem will be solved for a long time.

Thanks. Will do and report back; either tomorrow or next weekend.