[Zeek]

I know other people have posted about this but I just can't believe this is normal on a brand new machine. 21 outlander 1000 has 16 hours on the engine and 185 miles. Battery cranks over fine, it fires up and dies within about 2 seconds. Then will turn over and be extremely difficult to fire up again. When it does fire up and idle I notice the efi doesn't adjust the idle higher for the engine being cold. It sits in an insulated garage and it doesn't get that cold here. There's no way it should be this hard to start a brand new machine? My polaris would start easier when it's -20 than this does at around zero.

 

[BombardierBomb]

Yeah definitely not sounding right, any warranty left on it?

 

[Zeek]

Yeah definitely not sounding right, any warranty left on it?

Yeah hasn't even gone in for first service. I'll definitely be having them look into that. Just wondered if it was common with anyone else with a newer machine. I know it's a bit different with the throttle but wire instead of a throttle cable. But whether it's warm or cold it idles at 1200rpm and that seems off to me.

 

[BombardierBomb]

Well afaik, these machines don't have that cold idle-up ability, like a diesel, for instance. But your IAC valve might be lazy/sticking. That could explain it dying right after starting

 

[Zeek]

Well afaik, these machines don't have that cold idle-up ability, like a diesel, for instance. But your IAC valve might be lazy/sticking. That could explain it dying right after starting

You're correct when I was checking into getting it in for my first service I asked them a couple questions. Apparently they don't idle up higher when cold which I thought was bizarre but that's how it is I guess. He said they had a few issues with the 570 and 400 but not usually with the bigger machines. He also said most people said it went away after the engine is completely broken in. So I'll just keep an eye on it, and address it if it's still an issue when they do the first service. I'm only sitting at about 20 hours and 250 miles.

 

[CMB]

Mine did this too especially when it was new. I noticed that if I put the key on then push and hold the start button right away it runs for 2 seconds then dies. If I put the key on then just push and release the start button, wait a few seconds for the fuel pressure to build up and the ECU to take b its readings then push and hold the start button it starts and idles much better.

It has gotten much better over time. Im at 28 hours and the first 15 were very mild hours. I also started connecting the BRP battery maintainer so many this is helping too.

 

[Zeek]

Mine did this too especially when it was new. I noticed that if I put the key on then push and hold the start button right away it runs for 2 seconds then dies. If I put the key on then just push and release the start button, wait a few seconds for the fuel pressure to build up and the ECU to take b its readings then push and hold the start button it starts and idles much better.

It has gotten much better over time. Im at 28 hours and the first 15 were very mild hours. I also started connecting the BRP battery maintainer so many this is helping too.

Ok good to know, I always push start button then let the electronics come on and do their diagnostics and let the fuel pump do its thing too. Still dies after a second or 2. Like you said it will probably get better over time. My dealer said to bring it in for first service after 100 hours, seems excessive what about you?

 

[CMB]

Im probably a bad one to ask. Honestly, I changed all my fluids at 10 hrs and then again at 20 hrs then at 50. Is it excessive? Probably .

I wouldn't wait till 100 hrs. The dealer will do what you ask. Im sure if you say that you would rather not wait that long they will understand.

My thought is, You want to get the break in material out of the motor, trans and diffs as soon as you can. It has nothing to do with "break in oil" persay. Although there is oil with a higher zinc levels that aid in this process I don't think these bikes come with that from the factory but they might. Change it to early and the metal contact points are still "bedding in" so break in material will still be created after the change. Change it too late and those particles float around possibly causing additional wear.

I'm sure other people probably feel strongly about some other method but this is what I do based on may motor builds and rebuilds. It just makes sense in my lame example of a brain.

 

[Zeek]

Im probably a bad one to ask. Honestly, I changed all my fluids at 10 hrs and then again at 20 hrs then at 50. Is it excessive? Probably .

I wouldn't wait till 100 hrs. The dealer will do what you ask. Im sure if you say that you would rather not wait that long they will understand.

My thought is, You want to get the break in material out of the motor, trans and diffs as soon as you can. It has nothing to do with "break in oil" persay. Although there is oil with a higher zinc levels that aid in this process I don't think these bikes come with that from the factory but they might. Change it to early and the metal contact points are still "bedding in" so break in material will still be created after the change. Change it too late and those particles float around possibly causing additional wear.

I'm sure other people probably feel strongly about some other method but this is what I do based on may motor builds and rebuilds. It just makes sense in my lame example of a brain.

I'm definitely not doing it at 100 hours. Most likely at most at the 50 hour mark. Get in another ride or 2 in the next couple weeks and I'll probably be at that point mileage wise where it should be changed.

 

[SSMAX]

My machine does the same thing when starting on a cold engine sometimes i have to start it 4 or 5 times before it stays going.The dealer is looking in to it and i am not holding my breath,it has 86 hrs on it and seems to be getting worse.As for service the manual says 1st 50 hours and 2nd 100.

 

[BombardierBomb]

I could see where a fuel pump not really wanting to wake up from cold, could be contributing to y'alls symptoms. I'd be real curious to see what psi you guys are getting outta cold start.

 

[Zeek]

I could see where a fuel pump not really wanting to wake up from cold, could be contributing to y'alls symptoms. I'd be real curious to see what psi you guys are getting outta cold start.

I mean it doesn't get that cold here. It was even having issues at 5°c. I'll start it tomorrow will be below zero and see how much of an issue it is to start.

 

[Zeek]

My machine does the same thing when starting on a cold engine sometimes i have to start it 4 or 5 times before it stays going.The dealer is looking in to it and i am not holding my breath,it has 86 hrs on it and seems to be getting worse.As for service the manual says 1st 50 hours and 2nd 100.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that has an issue but at the same time doesn't sound good you're saying it's getting worse. Hopefully your dealer finds something they can fix for you.

 

[BombardierBomb]

I wasn't "really" referring to ambient cold, just lack of use cold/first start of the day or whatever

 

[CMB]

Mine has done the stalling thing since new also. I thought it was just the break in that helped it but I'm starting to think the full battery was the cure. Now I hit the green button wait 10 or 15 seconds for the fuel pump to run and ecu to read then start it up. It starts and goes right to idle. Idle still drops slightly at the 2 or 3 second mark but it stays running.

I'll disconnect the battery tender for a few days and start it up using the same process as above. If it stalls, I can say with 95% certainty that it's the battery.

To bad we can't program in the high idle function under 35 degrees F.

 

[Zeek]

Mine has done the stalling thing since new also. I thought it was just the break in that helped it but I'm starting to think the full battery was the cure. Now I hit the green button wait 10 or 15 seconds for the fuel pump to run and ecu to read then start it up. It starts and goes right to idle. Idle still drops slightly at the 2 or 3 second mark but it stays running.

I'll disconnect the battery tender for a few days and start it up using the same process as above. If it stalls, I can say with 95% certainty that it's the battery.

To bad we can't program in the high idle function under 35 degrees F.

I'd be interested to hear your results from the battery test. Next time I start mine I'll try waiting longer, I always wait till the fuel pump has shut off and then hit the start button. Maybe I'll give it the 10-15 seconds like you tried and see what happens. I'll definitely have them test the battery too when I get it in for the first service. My last machine I got the battery replaced on warranty cause it crapped out before the 6 months was up.

 

[Zeek]

Mine has done the stalling thing since new also. I thought it was just the break in that helped it but I'm starting to think the full battery was the cure. Now I hit the green button wait 10 or 15 seconds for the fuel pump to run and ecu to read then start it up. It starts and goes right to idle. Idle still drops slightly at the 2 or 3 second mark but it stays running.

I'll disconnect the battery tender for a few days and start it up using the same process as above. If it stalls, I can say with 95% certainty that it's the battery.

To bad we can't program in the high idle function under 35 degrees F.

You're definitely on to something here. I tried waiting about 10 seconds after the fuel pump stopped and it definitely started better.

 

[CMB]

I haven't forgotten about the test- we just got some snow here and it's been in the teens temp wise. Thanks for being patient. I know, I know - this is the norm for some. Others just take a little time to get acclimated. More power to you northern folks! Anything below 15F is just flat out COLD!!!!

I noticed an improvement just the same - giving her time to think about waking up then hold the button.

 

[CMB]

Sorry for the delay. Yesterday we had a garage door install so I pulled the bike out of the garage and it sat outside 24 hours with the temp ranging from 24F to 33F. The battery tender was not hooked up. The bike started the same as it did when hooked to the tender. The RPMs did drop slightly but it didn't stall. This is with pushing the button and waiting a few seconds then starting.

Next I'll leave the tender off for 2 days and see if there is a difference.

 

[Zeek]

It's bizarre it's a little different everytime for me. Next time I start it which will be today or tomorrow. I'm just going to start it like I have the last few times and see if it stalls without touching the throttle.