So I have a 2017 outlander 650 that runs great idles great besides you can not hold rpm anywhere from about 1800-2800 rpm. If you slowly move throttle once it gets up to 1800 it just jumps up. Same thing decelerating. I have read every post I can find. Seems like couple other people have had this but haven’t seen post on the fix. I leaning towards getting new idle air control valve. I put volt meter on throttle position sensor and seems smooth with no dead spots. Any help much appreciated.
Jckrall
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Welcome to the forum first of all and I'm sure we can help.
@CanAmRancher1 and @BombardierBomb will make quick work of your problem.
@CanAmRancher1 and @BombardierBomb will make quick work of your problem.
Welcome to the site!
As long as your throttle cable/butterfly in the intake is stroking free and returning to stop, IAC is about the only other thing this could be
That's what I was going to recommend. You can remove it from the intake and attempt to clean it/verify it's moving freely not sticking. There's a couple threads floating around here, one's real good, pictures n all. Search for IAC.
As long as your throttle cable/butterfly in the intake is stroking free and returning to stop, IAC is about the only other thing this could be
So you tested ohms? You need to test ohms with this table. You could check the IAC valve also.
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Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Ok thanks a ton. this is exactly the information I was wanting. So first of all I did remove the IAC and verified it is moving but that's about all I did. I will check the resistance on it. So when I checked the TPS I just dc volts and watch the voltage rise smoothly from about .45 volts up to about 4.5 volts roughly. Do I need the ECM adapter tool to check the resister on the TPS. It looks like I can just test the pins can't I?
Sorry I meant resistance on the TPS but I'm confused by that chart. Because I Believe there were only three wires going into the TPS. So I'm guessing I will need that ECM adapter tool.
If you don't have a copy already, download your free service manual:
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Service Manuals hosted locally for Can-Am Forums
Due to Russian sources being blocked and other sources hard to find, I am hosting manuals and linking to them here. I will be adding manuals as I get them. I will be grateful for anyone who wants to add manuals to this thread. I will add them to this first post. If you download a manual, please...
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You can replace the IAC without fuss, but if you remove the TPS, you will have to re-zero the sweep via BUDS
Just letting you know
Just letting you know
Well i'm still waiting on an IAC that I ordered but it kind of hit me to try and go run the machine while covering up the hole in the throttle body to the IAC. So I started it and as i started to cover the hole i gave it a little throttle as i knew it would die. I then completely covered the hole and ran the throttle up and down. I was able to hit all RPM and hold around 2000 if I wanted. I assume this gives me a pretty good idea that it is in fact the IAC. We will find out next week though. Thanks again for all the help
For the sake of saying it, check Rocky Mountain ATV and Partzilla for the best prices on OEM BRP stuff.
Sometimes the local dealer route makes sense too, but they rarely sell below full list, unlike those two ^
Sometimes the local dealer route makes sense too, but they rarely sell below full list, unlike those two ^
Little update for anyone that cares. I installed the new IAC and it significantly smoothed out the throttle. This wheeler still has an aggressive engine brake and pretty high torque but it made it so much better. Thanks for all the help.
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