[cquillen10]

I’ve recently purchased a 2006 Outlander 800 that has been 1000 swapped. Has a cam, snorkel, radiator relocate, hmf exhaust, and has been tuned. (Guy also claimed it has high performance clutch kit). When i bought it the belt was blown so i ordered a new one, installed it, and the it was acting weird, was creeping in gear, wouldnt hardly go anywhere. So i took both clutches off, cleaned them well, and put it back together and it ran a lot better, no more creeping and would actually drive. But on acceleration it would overrev and even bang the rev limiter at 20ish mph. If i backed off the throttle a little i could feel it slowly gear up in the cvt but didn’t have near the acceleration a 1000 outlander should have. Then i blew my new belt after less than 30 minutes of riding. Something is definitely wrong considering the slow acceleration at high rpm and shredding a belt that fast. Any help/advice is appreciated!!!

Heres a photo after i shredded the new belt.

 

[zrock]

Wow that primary is dirty and glazed over. Need to pull it all apart both primary and secondary take a scotchbright pad and clean them back down to the alum.. also clean everything that moves looks like the weights are rusty or maby that's their color. I could be wrong but that looks like a stock clutch to me... you may end up having to replace clutches.

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[cquillen10]

Wow that primary is dirty and glazed over. Need to pull it all apart both primary and secondary take a scotchbright pad and clean them back down to the alum.. also clean everything that moves looks like the weights are rusty or maby that's their color. I could be wrong but that looks like a stock clutch to me... you may end up having to replace clutches.

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Could i just shine up the primary with a scotch brite pad and buy a rebuild kit? I saw on ebay where they’re like $150

 

[ChrisS819]

That definitely looks like stock clutches to me. They are the same as the ones I took off my 2017 Outlander 1000 before I replaced them.


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[styk]

Your problem is likely several problems. You most likely need to do a full service to both clutches. Nothing half fast!. Next, i bet that clutch is the original 800 clutch with something like a Dalton kit but the weights and/or spring are wrong with the 1000 engine hence the over rev limiting and belt destruction.

 

[zrock]

Could i just shine up the primary with a scotch brite pad and buy a rebuild kit? I saw on ebay where they’re like $150

As the other members said take them apart and do a good clean up... your already in their so midaswell go over them both 100%. Replace what needs replacing and clean up everything else.
. The time and effort in taking your time will keep u riding and not broke down.. on another machine I tried a quick clean instead of tearing things down. I missed a bad bushing and the new belt blew 70km in.. lucky I had a spare but it was a long slow ride out

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[xsever]

You should also remove, clean, and grease the one-way bearings on the primary side. Inspect the primary's rollers as well. Maybe they are flatspotted.

 

[Zamoski]

As others have said, clean it up! Definitely looks stock. Did he do the tune after the 1000 swap or before. Each bike is programmed for what they have. A more power hungry swap will give off more power for parts that are made for 800.

 

[EvilGade]

I hope you got a steal of a deal for that bike. Very risky purchase and if it had a blown belt when you bought it that's a big red flag on an engine swapped bike. I personally would never buy that bike without riding it first. You very well may have the wrong clutches now. Did you ask the seller if they were the original clutches off the 800? If so you will need to replace them with clutches for a 1000 and I'm not sure if the gearbox for the old 800 can handle that.

1. Find out what clutches those are.
2. Thoroughly inspect and clean everything: If they are 1000 clutches take them off and clean the shit out of them, it will take you half a day easy as those are extremely dirty. Use scotchbrite and brake cleaner or even gun cleaner like Hoppe's. Check all weights to make sure none are missing or there isn't a chunk missing from one. Make sure all rollers more freely. 100% you MUST re-grease or replace the one bearing. I guarantee that's not functioning properly. Check your primary and secondary springs to be sure they are there and not broken. If they are very weak and you can compress them easily with your hands then get new springs. When you take off the clutches feel the output shaft and make sure there is no play. That should not move side to side.
3. Get a brand new OEM belt for the clutches not the bike. So if those are indeed 1000 clutches then get a belt for a 1000 not an 800.
4. Change your idle air control valve. Very easy to do and only costs $30. That could be part of the problem too and its easy. Make sure to clean the passages carefully with some cleaner and cue tips.

Good luck.

 

[zrock]

Now that im looking at it on my screen instead of a phone. I would say just replace that primary looking at how much rust is on things and the condition of the clutch faces it may never be reliable even after cleaning..

 

[Chief...]

1. Find out what clutches those are.
2. Thoroughly inspect and clean everything: If they are 1000 clutches take them off and clean the shit out of them, it will take you half a day easy as those are extremely dirty. Use scotchbrite and brake cleaner or even gun cleaner like Hoppe's. Check all weights to make sure none are missing or there isn't a chunk missing from one. Make sure all rollers more freely. 100% you MUST re-grease or replace the one bearing. I guarantee that's not functioning properly. Check your primary and secondary springs to be sure they are there and not broken. If they are very weak and you can compress them easily with your hands then get new springs. When you take off the clutches feel the output shaft and make sure there is no play. That should not move side to side.
3. Get a brand new OEM belt for the clutches not the bike. So if those are indeed 1000 clutches then get a belt for a 1000 not an 800.
4. Change your idle air control valve. Very easy to do and only costs $30. That could be part of the problem too and its easy. Make sure to clean the passages carefully with some cleaner and cue tips.

Good luck.

Besides the fact that those clutches look like they were rode hard and put away wet, and probably should be replaced, At first I thought that Evil may have hit on the problem of shredding your belts with #3, if you don't know for sure what clutches those are off (800 or 1000) how can you know what belt to put on them? However a search shows that the belt for the 800 (422280360) is a common belt for the 1000's also.
If you got a good deal on this, I would invest a little more money and replace the clutches. However if you can't do that, follow Evil's recommendation in #2.

 

[cquillen10]

Thank you all for the replies. Yes i did get a great deal on this bike and the guy told me it was tuned after it got the 1000 but the clutches are still 800 clutches. I looked into the primary and the 2 parts of the primary were so stuck together i had to pry them apart. Almost like the caps were too wide and sticking to the other half of the clutch. When i got it apart some of the rollers were missing/flat sided. Only 1 or 2 of them were good. I’ll probably do everything in my power to clean up the primary and secondary because new clutches are too expensive. Would rather save $1000 and clean them and replace parts than buy whole new ones. I’ve already ordered a new one way bearing and am trying to decide what rebuild kit to buy for the primary. Should i get just rollers and washers? Should i get a big weight kit? The weights look stock which could be the problem because the primary isn’t wanting to move. But could the caps have something to do with the primary not wanting to move?

 

[cquillen10]

Also i’ve noticed the helix on the secondary is very very worn. Would that affect anything?

 

[EvilGade]

Yes it very much could be the culprit too. If its heavily worn your upshift and back shifting will be compromised which they are currently. Replace that too!

 

[BombardierBomb]

"stock" clutches can be found cheap and easy, everyone's pulling 'em off for CVtech/STM/QSC/etc. A cheap pair could keep you riding while you're saving up to do it right.

surf your local bookface marketplace or hell check with your local dealer or indy ATV guys, see if they've got some laying around.

There's not even that much involved in "rebuilding" those existing ones, assuming the sheave faces haven't lost their belt engagement angle.