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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, after some trial and error and some research and help from fellow atv'ers on here, I'm going to try and help out the people like me who want to upgrade their existing halogen headlights to HID headlights.

1) You can purchase your HID headlight kit online like most people do, or you can buy it in a store. I bought mine on Ebay for around $35. There is another site who sells HID Kits with a digital ballast for about $60. My bike is an Outty 800R and uses the H4 bulb. Make sure you order the proper bulb for your bike. Also, you will be required to select a bulb temperature for your new HID kit. They usually start around 3000k and go upwards to 14000k. Th difference is....3k has a yellowish tint to it. 5k has the factory look of most cars nowadays that come stock with HID's. 6k is the color I prefer, it has a mild cool blue tint to it. Beyond 10k you will get a purple tint on your beam. The higher you go in temperature, the less bright the beam will be. You WILL need a relay kit (about $15,HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning) with your HID's, because the factory waring cannot support the energy required to start up the ballasts. You can also make your own relay kit with a $5 relay from your local auto store, some wire, a connector or two, and some loom (plastic wire cover that hides/protects the wire and gives your install a clean, factory appearance). Here is a link that explains how the relays work, and how to wire them up.FAQ: RELAYS; how they work and how to wire it up... - MP3Car.com

2) Remove the factory bulbs and set aside for future use in case one of your HID bulbs should go out.

3) My bike has 3 wires going into the headlight assembly. Black=ground, Green=power for low beam, Blue=power for high beam. Cut all 3 wires about .5" from where they enter the factory wire loom toward the engine. I used 12g wire for my ground, and I removed a bolt right underneath my winch which supports the bottom of the frame. I used a dremel sanding disc to grind away a small piece of the paint to expose the metal for a good ground. I spliced two 12g wires and connected them, then put them under the screw and tightened it back down. I ran the wires to the end of the black wire which is coming out of the headlight assembly on each bulb. You will need to splice a 3rd wire into the bulb ground on whichever side you are mounting your relay. This will provide the ground for your HID bulbs, ballast, and relay. Connect the ground for the relay to the prong labeled "85" on the relay.

4) Next, I ran a 12g power wire directly from the battery (inline fuse attached) to the front of the bike. Place a 12g female connector on this and connect it to the prong labeled "30" on your relay. Do not connect the wire to the battery until the entire install is complete.

5) You can use the blue wire from your high beam power wire which was cut earlier as your power source to power your relay. What this means, is that when you flip your headlight switch to "high" you will be sending 12v to the relay. In turn, you will be powering your relay and your HID's will activate. When the headlight switch is in the "low" position, your HID's will be off. This is the way I did it, and I only have a low beam light setup. Connect this wire to the prong labeled "86" on your relay.

6) Now, you will need to splice two power wires together and connect them to the wires going into the headlight (green for low only, green and blue for low/high). These wires will be connected to the prong labeled "87" on your relay. This is the power output which will only receive power when you have the ignition on.

7) Plug the wires from the HID bulb into their respective connectors on the plug. Black to black, and red to green. Now, here is where I used a Dremel and a small sanding/cutting disc to cut a notch on the plastic rim for the wires to run out to the ballast. There are 4 wires, so I cut two small notches. You will also need to cut notches in the rubber seal which surrounds the outside of the headlight housing. Stuff the plug inside the headlight housing and push the rubber seal back on, making sure the seal is seated completely in the plastic rim. Then, place the plastic outer cover back over the rubber seal, and tighten down the 3 screws. I put a little black silicone around the area where the wires come out, just to be safe.

8) Finally, I used loom/conduit to cover all the exposed wires and I put a little dielectric grease on the connectors that run to the relay. Use tie straps to tighten everything down and ensure that everything stays where it belongs.

9) TEST. Connect the power wire to the battery, making sure the ignition is OFF. Once it's connected, make sure the headlight switch is on the LOW setting if you have the single beam setup like I did. If you used the low/high beam setup, you can use your kill switch to keep the headlights in the off position while you turn the key to the on setting, without lights. Start your bike. Once it's running, turn the key to the lights on position and turn on your new HID's. Keep in mind that you should not start your bike with the HID's on, as the amount of juice required puts a big stress on the bike and may cause it to act weird. If it does flick on and then off, just turn the bike off and give it about 15 seconds for the ECU to go off. Then you can try it again making sure you start the bike first, and the headlights are off, then switch them on.:th_smiliedance:
 
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EXCELLENT WRITE UP!!!!!!!!

I did the same kit but with a high/low bulb - was a little easier but still very nice job on the write up. i just got the regulare car kit from ddm tuning and picked a bulb and ballast. it works great and looks great! I have a 5000k high/low that i want to swap for a 6000k non switchable
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you sir. Took a little experimentation, and 2 days worth of playing, but it's finally done. Going out for a night ride tmrw night to test them out and fine tune the alignment. I have the 6k's which have a hint of blue but are very white. I love them. I also have 6k's on my truck and I have had them for about 3 years with no problems. Tmrw will be the test of my wiring skills, once I get into some mud and water. I'll be sure to follow up.
 

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Did u run the 55 or 35 Watt?

Also fyi the car kit is plug and play!

The other thing I'd like to mention is the colors change with a 55 Watt. They are washed out and appear to be 1000k less than 35 watters.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ran the 35w, and the atv kit is plug and play also. But you need a relay for it because the atv can't handle the load. I ended up removing my HID's and reinstalling the Sylvania Silverstars. The HID's would only work with one light on, when I had both plugged in it would kill the bike.
 

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Your bike will run them as long as there is a relay.. the ground is your problem..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had them grounded to the steel frame.
 

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HIDs suck, LED is where it's at!!!!
 

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Yeah okay. hids are great leds are the new.

If you have $600-$1000 to spend on led lighting, than u r the man! Hids are great compared to stock. I wish I could afford them.

HIDs suck, LED is where it's at!!!!
 

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My HIDs work great and i didnt use any relays!
 

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I will put my HID up against LED anyday of the week and still have $$$ in the bank.. yes LED are nice but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Now if I was mega loaded I would have both
 

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Well said.

I will put my HID up against LED anyday of the week and still have $$$ in the bank.. yes LED are nice but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Now if I was mega loaded I would have both


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