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Discussion Starter #1
I can't stand the wild boar and gorilla bumpers, let alone one with a big rad sticking off the top. Does anybody make one that is cosmetically appealing? Or one that somewhat stays with the original sporty look and design of the Gade?
 

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That is what I am wondering... you could make your own
 

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same here man.. I don't want that big of a bumper hanging off of my front end. Just after each ride really clean your rad. That's what i do anyways and never overheat
 

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I've seen 1 that didn't have a bumper. It looked fresh but idk who makes it. I went with wbatv bc they were the cheapest and I have to push a lot of ppl so the bumper comes in handy


2013 renegade 1000
2" highlifter lift
32" backs
Snorkeled
Rad relocated
 

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Once you spend enough time sitting on the side I'm of the trails waiting on temp lights and machines to cool down you probably won't care as much anymore, at least that was the case with my rincon, for me it was a $ thing not looks but limping that thing back to camp all the time from a clogged radiator finally pushed me over the edge
 

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Check rubberdown customs, it's the same idea as the others but you can customize the shroud for a little more appealing look


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is one of the very few pictures I can find of a non bumper relocate. Still not that pretty but better. I am surprised how few options there are out there. It's like someone decided to stick it on top of the bumper and everybody decided that was the only option. Let's see some out of the box thinking.
 

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I just want a GOOD LOOKING bumper for pushing with thats inexpensive. I dont have an overheating issue.
 

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We offer the HAVOC bumper with or without a rad kit on it, BUT you cant add a rad kit down the road if you get the bumper alone because there are additional parts welded to the bumpers that DO get the rad kits.

heres a little writeup on why we think ours is the best and worth the extra $$$ to purchase it, this was written up by the guy that builds these for us because we (he and I ) would get asked all the time why ours cost more than the others,

HAVOC BUMPER
-Superior Finish. 100% sandblasted, 100% phosphate washed, zinc powder primer, textured black powder top coat. The finish equates to a Military Grade, 3000 salt spray test.
-Provides more front end protection for the Renegade. This is accomplished by using more tubing (more length and more components).
-Has more laser cut parts
-Provides more protection to the spool area of the winch. This is because of the winch fairlead mount.

RAD KIT:
-Superior Finish. 100% sandblasted, 100% phosphate washed, zinc powder primer, textured black powder top coat. The finish equates to a Military Grade, 3000 salt spray test.
-Can be replaced without effecting the HAVOC. This can be done because the rad kit is mounted to the HAVOC. In the event the rad kit is damaged it can simply be replaced. This also allows for the option of a custom designed rad kit.
-Comes standard with a protective rad screen
-Comes with more stainless steel and zinc plated hardware.
 

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I've just purchased two Rubberdown rad relocates, I've only installed one so far but very happy with it overall. On both Renegade 1000 Xxc's, I'm running it with SnorkelyourATV snorkels and it fits with no issues. After looking at the competition, Rubberdown's definitely fit what I was looking for and I thought it looked the most appealing.

Mnchvgs79 - factory location is ok depending on the mud you're hitting. Last weekend we were in real thick stuff and my rad in the factory location was so plugged you couldn't even tell there were fins anymore (the machine that's not relocated yet). I couldn't make it a kilometer up the road without have to shut it off and let it cool for 20 minutes then find water to hit. If I'm going to keep riding in that area, I really have no choice but to relocate (which I'll be putting mine on soon anyways). It literally looked like a big wall haha. We ride another area though in more muskeg and sand where my rad hasn't plugged that bad at all. So I guess it really depends where you're riding. Just my thoughts.
 

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I cut a plate for the top of mine it cleaned it up quite a bit. The bumper and radiator relocate take away the sporty look of the bike, but I love mine. And the snorkles behind it help take out that space gap.
 

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the options of changing the rad screens and custom lettering and design dresses the relocates up pretty good in my opinion. turning snorkels into something that doesn't look like bathroom plumbing seems like a steeper climb haha
 

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Made my own mounts and everything, but the cover is from rdc

 

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I went out on my first run with my RDC rad relocate and I say I wish I did it sooner. I agree, it's difficult to make a Renegade look good with a rad relocate but I like that they have the custom patterns and overall my lack of overheating was well worth it! Also, I've found the strength to be pretty good. I'm very happy with RDC's product.
 

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I just want a GOOD LOOKING bumper for pushing with thats inexpensive. I dont have an overheating issue.
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I have to agree that the relocate rads are UG LEE looking and ever more so on a Rene. But that is the price you pay to play in the mud.

*****

Why do you and Rene800 use the expression overheating.

Do you know what over heating really is????

Over heating is when the engine temp is higher than what the set temp of the stat is. You have a 150 stat and your engine temp goes up to 205 and more. You are 60+or- degrees into over heating.
 

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Yep, I do.... The thermostat opens fully at it's set temperature (operating temperature - unless you buy a cooler or warmer thermostat). If you want to be technical, as the owners manual says for HI TEMP - Engine is overheating, refer to ENGINE OVERHEATS in TROUBLESHOOTING section (sorry for the caps lock, I typed is as printed in the manual).

I agree, if you want to get technical, yes, operating temperature is 150C so once you pass that, you're "overheating" from normal operating temperature (although now we could argue there's operating range)... In pretty much any manual I've ever seen though, they call it an overheat light when you hit dangerous temperatures. That's why I used the term overheating. My ATV overheats when it's idling with no airflow everyday then (my fan would have to be on anytime I'm stopped idling to keep it at operating temp, not overheating as per your definition)! When I say overheat, I'm talking the manual... as in, my rad was SO plugged that I can't drive 1km down the road without the red high temp light coming on and my rev limiter kicking in (which I pull over so I don't warp the head, swell my rad, etc).

If you feel we should be using another term, I'd suggest you email Can-am and the other manufacturers and tell them to change the OVERHEAT words to something else (whatever you believe the correct term should be). I'm using the industry-specific terms that most people understand.

With respect, you must understand that if you google "engine overheat", the results are going to be related to dangerously high temperatures (when the dangerous light comes on), not past thermostat fully open. I'm saying you're right, but it's kind of being a smartass for no reasons necessary when the industry isn't defining it the way you state (although, you're still right).

So, to be technically correct, with my rad plugged, I've hit dangerously high temperatures where the machine limits me (60+ overheating). I don't know what you would call it though if it's not overheat?

Anyways, I'm not trying to be a jerk here (even though my response probably sounds like it lol) or get this post off topic. This forum is great, there's lots of help out here and lots of great people!
 
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