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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2005 can am outlander 400 for $2900 cad. It has unknown km because the speedometer and odometer was broken but it looked solid but it has a good amount of rust and the body was a little rough. I looked for cracked frame and made sure the choke worked and it works good. The tires are worn and needs to be replaced because they are worn out, the exhaust is rusted out and needs to be replaced. Most of the rust was spray painted out because he was covering up the rust. The problem that I saw is that it was a Canadian government machine so it was most likely maintained well but was probably run hard.

I just have a few questions:

What are some of the things I should check?
What exhaust should I replace it with? Aftermarket or stock?
It had 120PSI compression is that good And what was it factory?
What are some good trail/mud tires?

I’m used to a 1986 Honda trx350 so this is quite a step up for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, what are some reasons why my odometer and speedometer may not be working. The backlight and the oil, 4x4, park, etc lights are working but the odometer numbers and Spedo arm won’t move.
 

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So I have a 330 and a 400, here are the common issues. The speedo seems to crap out on all of these, very common. Voltage regulator also shit out, they updated them and I recommend getting one as a backup asap. If your exhaust is shot check the header where it bolts to motor, common to have hairline crack right at the flange, leans it out and causes backfiring. For tires I'm a big fan of big horns.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
To fix the spedo would I have to replace the whole gauge? I’ll check for a crack tomorrow And if there is would a little bit of welding fix it? I have bighorns on my defender and live them but they are very expensive so I may get some knock off ones or mudlites. Do you think a aftermarket voltage regulator will work or can it do harm?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to spend the money to fix it and be done with it, also very curious how many km it has.
 

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I think you have to get a new gauge. Yes you can weld it that's what I did. There are plenty of good cheaper tires. Tusk Terra bite are basically a bias ply big horn knock off. Regular old bear claws are great tires too. Mud lites, zillas all get great reviews.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’m going to check my voltage regulator to make sure that it hasn’t already failed because I won’t get the fail message due to my odometer not working, shouldn't the voltage regulator be around 14-15 volts?
 

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You wouldn't get a error code anyway. They went bad on both of mine and what happened was running terrible would die, lights flickering etc... Check ebay that's what I did cuz the new ones are like $300.
 

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Congrats
Welcome to the club.

Sounds like a possible wiring issue with the gauge pod maybe.
I had mine apart dealing with the condensation maybe check the wires/connections and youll get lucky.
New pods are spendy even when they do come up on ebay but a working odo/trip meter is important to me.
Good luck have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I turn the key the spedometer needle twitches between the 0km/h and the very bottom then gives up after a few seconds so there is power going to it, as for the odometer it is just blank. I’m going to replace the safety decals as I see that they are free on can-ams website. I’ve also decided that I’m too cheap to replace the rusted through muffler so I’m going to leave it for a bit, same with the spedometer if I can’t fix it I’ll leave it until I find a cheap replacement then do maintenance depending on how much I ride it.

It’s not the nicest machine but it’ll do what I need it to do. (Sorry don’t have any other pics)
613F37D9-DCCB-48E6-AB2E-0E7BE9F3E73B.jpeg
35D4D809-BFBD-4B6C-A363-9D454F920FF6.jpeg

So I have a 330 and a 400, here are the common issues. The speedo seems to crap out on all of these, very common. Voltage regulator also shit out, they updated them and I recommend getting one as a backup asap. If your exhaust is shot check the header where it bolts to motor, common to have hairline crack right at the flange, leans it out and causes backfiring. For tires I'm a big fan of big horns.
Ok, its been long enuff I'll say it....

Pics or it didnt happen haha ;)
Pls
 

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Do you think a aftermarket voltage regulator will work or can it do harm?
I have a 2004 Outlandish 330. I had 'battery/charging issues' within weeks of getting it home ten plus years ago.

I replaced the regulator (?) that sat at the rear near the battery after trying everything else. I believe the part came from RM STATOR (or close/sounds like) . It has been in place now for years and years w/o issues. For what it is worth, I'd buy one from them again - it comes with a little decal, too!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a 2004 Outlandish 330. I had 'battery/charging issues' within weeks of getting it home ten plus years ago.

I replaced the regulator (?) that sat at the rear near the battery after trying everything else. I believe the part came from RM STATOR (or close/sounds like) . It has been in place now for years and years w/o issues. For what it is worth, I'd buy one from them again - it comes with a little decal, too!
Thanks, if it ever goes or if I have issues I’ll definitely replace it with it. I’d rather pay $150 one than paying $50 every once and a while.

Think I found the place you bought yours

A18A4EA3-F4B9-4779-B8B7-F8F2F2AF5ACC.jpeg
 

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That looks like it alright.

From what I've read, the original VR is up front near the CDI box, and was just a single plug design. The upgraded/replacement VR was relocated back by the battery and went to that dual-plug design as shown. I'd be shocked, honestly, if your original lived all these years. Most accounts I've read were that they failed pretty close to new, and most were either replaced under recall or by the original owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That makes sense, because I see a lot of the VRs online as a one plug design while mine goes into a adapter that changes it to two plugs. I guess mine has been replaced before then.

Sorry if You can’t see much of the plugs in the picture. It’s just one I had saved
811E7667-76C2-44A4-AE20-9C1850C738E8.jpeg

That looks like it alright.

From what I've read, the original VR is up front near the CDI box, and was just a single plug design. The upgraded/replacement VR was relocated back by the battery and went to that dual-plug design as shown. I'd be shocked, honestly, if your original lived all these years. Most accounts I've read were that they failed pretty close to new, and most were either replaced under recall or by the original owners.
 

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It’s not the nicest machine but it’ll do what I need it to do. (Sorry don’t have any other pics) View attachment 96129
Is that an RM Stator Decal on the front?

Those bars forming a three-sided basket thing on the front - I invented!

Well, I discovered that the holes were a perfect fit for 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and that 1/2" threaded irrigation risers in each of the four corner holes could be used with 90 degree 'corner' connectors (Slip, Threaded, Slip) to form something similar that, should one 'roll the bike' or similar, could be easily replaced for very little money. BONUS FEATURE - PVC is flexible. Thus the entire assembly is assembled w/o gluing or cementing the fittings - but the pieces connecting the corners (forming 'the basket') are cut a bit 'long' so the assembly is under tension. I'll post a picture or two someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Is that an RM Stator Decal on the front?

Those bars forming a three-sided basket thing on the front - I invented!

Well, I discovered that the holes were a perfect fit for 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and that 1/2" threaded irrigation risers in each of the four corner holes could be used with 90 degree 'corner' connectors (Slip, Threaded, Slip) to form something similar that, should one 'roll the bike' or similar, could be easily replaced for very little money. BONUS FEATURE - PVC is flexible. Thus the entire assembly is assembled w/o gluing or cementing the fittings - but the pieces connecting the corners (forming 'the basket') are cut a bit 'long' so the assembly is under tension. I'll post a picture or two someday.
Sorry don’t really know what you mean by a basket, are you talking about the basket that holds the battery?

Don’t think it’s an RM stator VR but I’m going to look these numbers I got off of them. The adapter is a shindengen.

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 

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lol no no no, he's talking about the railing on your front rack, that's not factory installed on these bikes. He's asking you about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is that an RM Stator Decal on the front?

Those bars forming a three-sided basket thing on the front - I invented!

Well, I discovered that the holes were a perfect fit for 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and that 1/2" threaded irrigation risers in each of the four corner holes could be used with 90 degree 'corner' connectors (Slip, Threaded, Slip) to form something similar that, should one 'roll the bike' or similar, could be easily replaced for very little money. BONUS FEATURE - PVC is flexible. Thus the entire assembly is assembled w/o gluing or cementing the fittings - but the pieces connecting the corners (forming 'the basket') are cut a bit 'long' so the assembly is under tension. I'll post a picture or two someday.
lol no no no, he's talking about the railing on your front rack, that's not factory installed on these bikes. He's asking you about that.
Ahhh, don’t know what I was thinking. I thought the basket was a factory option, since it’s not I wonder who put it on? It’s made out of metal and crappy welds (still better than my welds). I think it’s bolted in from underneath the rack.
 

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the railing on your front rack
Right,Nice Rack you got there ;)

Also, the RM STATOR comment was in reference to what appeared to be a circular decal on the front of the bike (picture was here then!) They sent me such a decal when I bought the regulator from them. Mine was located at the rear of the bike when I replaced it - so the one I replaced was not a factory original.
 
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